Rockfax Description
Absorbing and varied climbing from beginning to end. Start at a slim corner directly below a narrow chimney in the upper wall.
Climb the line of slim corners past a couple of difficult sections to the overhang. Step right and enter the narrow chimney which leads pleasantly to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics.

Hidden 12/Oct/17 Lead rpt
bavarianmountaingoat 06/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden 06/Oct/17 2nd rpt
David Staples 11/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 10/Sep/17 2nd
with Amnon
GuyC 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Tough at the HVS 5a grade in guidebook!

with Clare
Ben1983 17/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Martin Ibbotson 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with W
Hidden 06/Aug/17 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
manbat 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, but clearly E1 5b. I've done easier E1s, put it that way. Very sparse gear, and commitment required to move on up through the sequence with the slopey edges. Found it quite psychologically challenging.

with Laura Packford
Hidden 04/Aug/17 2nd O/S
chiragshah5001 24/Jul/17 2nd β
jackappleby 23/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Milo, Rowan
Hidden 12/Jul/17 TR dog
melv 03/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Fi
justaddpowder 26/Jun/17 Lead


with Lloyd
justaddpowder 26/Jun/17 Lead

Test 1

with Lloyd
George Killaspy 21/May/17 Lead O/S

Suffering from some serious polish

Hidden 15/May/17 2nd O/S
Mary Hamilton 23/Apr/17 TR

Love to lead this as my first hvs? Some day !

with josh machant, maddie McCollin
bpmclimb 17/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 17/Apr/17 2nd rpt
Gentleman Joe 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Seconded by Mark P who had a little bit of trouble on the moves just before enterring the chimney. I faffed about a bit on the same moves and with placing gear but overall a fantastic route. It is a shame that it's feeling a bit worn on the lower slab section but not enough to spoil the route

Tommy yorke 01/Apr/17 Solo rpt

What a great route pretty scary doing it alone on top rope self belay the gear looks "interesting" to do it on the sharp end will be back soon to lead it !!

dripdry1 11/Feb/17 Lead rpt

Another great route ticked off the list! Great to return to what was my first Trad climb ever !

petecallaghan 03/Jan/17 Lead O/S

Fabulous route. Easily 3 stars. Takes thought and the crux comes much sooner than I expected

with Scott
Austin Cornfield ??/2017 2nd
Hazel Morgan 23/Oct/16 2nd rpt

Bloody windy, bloody cold, bloody difficult to remove gear... fun when done!

JoeCoxson 23/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Blowing an absolute hoolie.

with Louisa, Hazel Morgan
aidanchitty 11/Oct/16 Lead
with tommy tomatoe
mallardhealhook 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with The goat
Hidden 25/Sep/16 TR O/S
Leo Woodhead 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Nice route, but definitely didn't live up to being 5b climbing. Slightly techy getting into the chimney, but once you're in the chimney, it's job done.

with Haigh
Huntlyfiddler 22/Aug/16 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 22/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Ygraine, Clare
onlyfoddington 19/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with The old man
Daniel Wicks 16/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with dandry
Hidden 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Gerben Neven ?/Aug/16 TR O/S
powelli 20/Jul/16 2nd dog

Wow, quite some moves both on the main face and to get into the chimney

NeilHowarth 20/Jul/16 2nd
csd23 20/Jul/16 Lead
Pete Scott 17/Jul/16 Lead
J5Kay 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S
johncoxmysteriously 13/Jul/16 2nd
with Simon Carr
Jess Carr 02/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Rich Pollard
Alex Wade 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Betty Rotsides
Hidden ?/Jun/16 Lead G/U
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead O/S
TomSW 29/May/16 Lead
Rob Davies 17/May/16 2nd

Tough for HVS 5a - more like E1 5b. Drove here to escape the wind, but it began to spit with rain after this.

harold walmsley 17/May/16 Lead O/S

Seemed tough for HVS

Dilwat 07/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Best done with your laces done up! Doh! Enjoyed this, but I felt the groove was harder than the chimney.

with Dave P
riddle 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Mattholland96 21/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Finally its been done, great climb! So much sun

Hidden 21/Mar/16 2nd rpt
G Weatherley 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Ed Walker
Hidden 16/Jan/16 Lead
dripdry1 16/Jan/16 2nd
Hidden 31/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Mattholland96 03/Oct/15 2nd
Trace ?/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Steve N
Hidden 07/Jul/15 Lead O/S
JulesV 06/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Shauna
pebbles 06/Jul/15 2nd

fancied this but harry beat me to bag the lead. found a reachy move in the middle the crux rather than the move into the chimney, which was straightforward

with harry
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead
Aimee Louise 16/Jun/15 TR
Hidden 13/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 13/Jun/15 -
tobydunford 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 28/May/15 Lead
with Tanya Milner
Hazel Morgan 22/May/15 2nd

Really enjoyed the chimney.

rich_hw 11/May/15 Lead O/S
with Nikki
Stu.Cossey ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Alex Hallam 27/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Quite tricky for HVS I thought but maybe just not used to the rock type, a bit polished in places.

with Pete Mack
pete_mack 26/Apr/15 2nd
with Alex
Ian Jones 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Desperate. Scottish 5c on shiny rock. Fucking awful but credit to les Williams for putting it up all those years ago.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
simonhammond1966 03/Apr/15 TR

Very wet but fancied having a go at it so Joel top-roped me. The move to get into the chimney is certainly the challenge but keen to go back on a drier day and have a proper go at it.

Joel Perkin 03/Apr/15 TR
RichardN 02/Apr/15 2nd dog
Grant Fulton 18/Mar/15 Lead
jmorgan 06/Mar/15 TR dnf

Got half way. Too cold, wet and tired to finish

Grant Fulton ??/2015 Lead
07hillg ??/2015 TR O/S
WilliamD 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, but I left a sling there!

JoeCoxson 11/Oct/14 2nd rpt

Wendy's solid lead, glad she's back on HVS. Had a go on a top-rope of it a year or so back.

Wendy Watthews 11/Oct/14 Lead rpt
arandall 11/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Tom Seccombe 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Louise Street
Pete Scott 16/Aug/14 2nd
with Ben Buckland
mdjb 24/Jul/14 -
Hidden 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
csd23 ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Markus Svensen
andork123 ?/Jul/14 TR O/S
with josh.h
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead
Cherish 03/Jun/14 TR O/S

I managed to get a top rope of this in before the rain. It is an AMAZING climb. I couldn't lead this level right now, and I was informed it's 'high in the grade' too. Some amazingly exposed patches, but once you get half way up the chimney, it eases up. There is one loose-ish block on the route, so look out for that.

with Caro Moussey
DaveGoesClimbing 27/May/14 TR O/S

Really nice route, might try and give it a lead when I'm next out

Huntlyfiddler 17/Apr/14 2nd
bpmclimb 17/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
lukegorman ??/2014 Lead RP

Top roped before

with Greg Taylor
mauricechetwyndwoods1 17/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with andrew collinson
olicoz 02/Nov/13 2nd dnf

too windy and wet, slippery, only made it half way

Hidden 12/Oct/13 TR O/S
davebrox 12/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/13 TR O/S
guy757 19/Aug/13 -
with cj iles
Hidden 19/Aug/13 2nd
Christine Iles 19/Aug/13 -
with Guy757
Daniel Wicks 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Tash
Mike W 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 25/Jul/13 2nd
bpmclimb 25/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
neilstubbs 25/May/13 2nd

Some thin crimpy moves to begin with then the pull into the chimney and a nice finish, great route

Simon Alden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Wheeldon
Sean Kelly 13/May/13 TR

Tricky for the grade and not overprotected on the hard moves...

with Alberto Rampini
Hidden 11/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/13 2nd
Hidden 02/May/13 Lead
bpmclimb 26/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Chris Nolan
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S

My blood went into this route after holding a few falls. Lovely moves up to the chimney

with Goss
Ricky Rocks 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A nice route, better than it looks.

with Jakey
robertharris7 26/Aug/12 2nd β

Amazing Climb !!! Tecnicall and varied

with wayne clark
paddymitton ?/Aug/12 Lead
tim.fairhall 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Hui
Hidden 27/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Mark Kemball 27/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/12 2nd
Mike_Hayes 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 10/Jul/12 2nd
bpmclimb 08/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 08/Jun/12 2nd
Dave192939 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Tibbits
hotfeet 08/Apr/12 Lead
with Ant
antdav 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead
mattshort 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Phil Porter
Paul ablitt 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Wendy Watthews 04/Mar/12 2nd
arandall 04/Mar/12 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton 15/Feb/12 Lead

Very nice granite wall climbing in the bottom half.

with Rik Meek
Hidden 15/Feb/12 2nd
MrWiggles ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Oct/11 2nd
mark sharples 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S
PeteBall 30/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Carl
Ceridwen 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Uber Mike
gowla 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with will kumar
Graham Booth 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Justin T 02/Jul/11 2nd
with Cherry
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd
stuaart 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Didn't want to commit to the move below the chimney due to the poor gear situation. 5b? Probably not, but definitely not well protected.

PastyBoy84 04/Jun/11 TR β
with Ben Mayo
leerybunny 31/May/11 Lead O/S


with Stan
SamChessell 26/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/May/11 2nd
SamChessell 15/May/11 2nd O/S
James Mitchelmore 14/May/11 Lead O/S
gingerking ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave89 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Laura
Popkids 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Good HVS,thought it was a 5b move through the thin section.Only place 5 bits of gear.Rack up every thing you might need on the left before the chimney.

with Nolan
masa-alpin 24/Apr/11 Lead β

Will bravely attempted to lead it, but gave up after taking his first leader falls at the crux (great effort!). I then lead it, using the gear left by him.

mark20 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Dizz 23/Apr/11 Lead

Very nice, fell off the move into the chimney due to too much faffing, actually fairly easy once I got on with it!

with David B
Hidden 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Jez 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with NJSharp
carlgodfrey 12/Apr/11 Lead RP
PeteBall 12/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Carl
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd
Master Chief 07/Apr/11 TR rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2011 2nd RP
Kim Middlebrook 06/Nov/10 -
Hidden 21/Oct/10 TR
royal 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Tough HVS. Took a good fall from the crux and started again and did it clean. Some very polished holds but satisfying, especially the moves before and into the chimney.

with rob
andrea83 08/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Good route

Matt Fry 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Slightly harder than it looks.

Hidden ?/Sep/10 -
carlgodfrey 07/Aug/10 TR RP
jakenichol 14/Jun/10 Lead
Don Jebus 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with James
joese7en 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Huntlyfiddler 13/Apr/10 2nd
bpmclimb 13/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
jchenoweth 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Not Dave
cem 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
jchenoweth 31/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
arthurbeer 27/Feb/10 2nd
redshapedfriday 27/Feb/10 Lead RP
nickstephens 19/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Probably less worrying without the nice ledge at the crux being a tad on the damp side! Nice route though!

JerryD ??/2010 -
gg4419 ?/Oct/09 2nd rpt
1651SP 13/Sep/09 2nd
mbradberry2008 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
gg4419 ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Mark_RMC 21/Aug/09 2nd

Followed Claire up this - fine to start up a sries of flakes, followed by a hard move to gain the chimney.

with Claire Smart
petegruf 17/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with bridget c
briar4012 19/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Marti999 19/Jun/09 2nd O/S
andybenham 03/May/09 2nd rpt

Done this a few times now and it always makes me smile

Rowansb ??/2009 -
vertically_challenged 20/Nov/08 TR O/S
vertically_challenged 20/Nov/08 TR O/S
Rusty2406 24/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Tom
Master Chief 24/Oct/08 Lead rpt
with Nick
Master Chief 03/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with Jeremy
Huntlyfiddler 01/Aug/08 2nd
bpmclimb 01/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Master Chief 21/May/08 TR O/S
jchenoweth 25/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Charlie Jeynes
pmoody ??/2008 Lead
with Daniel Campbell
pmoody ??/2008 2nd
with Jowan Phillips
Tom Styles 19/Oct/07 TR O/S
with Matthew Neighbour
midgelt 24/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Oli
mattshort 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Alfie
jchenoweth 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Matt Short
emdiesse 06/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Alfie
pmoody 26/Feb/07 TR O/S
with Darren Cox
rob_lee 26/Feb/07 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
GuyC 31/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Climbed crux but lowered off at base of chimney before top-roping final section (should have lead!)

with Jon Bell
AngelaC 02/Aug/06 2nd
Mark Kemball 21/Jul/06 TR
bpmclimb 20/Jul/06 Lead rpt
with Clare & Adrian
colin milton 14/Apr/06 Lead
with ian dunbar
Huntlyfiddler 31/Jul/05 2nd
bpmclimb 31/Jul/05 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 28/May/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/04 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 05/Aug/03 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 05/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/03 TR
Hidden ??/2003 TR
Huntlyfiddler 24/Aug/02 2nd
bpmclimb 24/Aug/02 Lead rpt

Getting dark.

with Clare
Samuel P 27/Apr/02 2nd
with Neil
bpmclimb 23/Jul/01 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 23/Jul/01 2nd
jfletcher 15/Jul/01 Lead
with Charlotte Fletcher
Hidden 03/Jun/01 2nd
hayleylouise 15/Apr/00 TR
bpmclimb ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 31/Jan/99 Lead
with Ashley Hold
nacnud 06/Apr/96 2nd
Ashley Hold 27/Aug/95 Lead
kp64zl ?/Apr/92 2nd
with Keith, Jason M
tlr 09/Apr/90 2nd
with Fin
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set