Rockfax Description
A popular Extreme, which has a particularly attractive first pitch that is often climbed in its own right. Start below a diagonal black seam at a finger ledge above a low horizontal break.
1) 5b, 26m. Move up to, and stand on the finger ledge. Follow the thin line leftwards to a small overhang and continue up the technical crack to an easing below the steep wall above. Follow the diagonal line rightwards to a belay on a ledge.
2) 11m. Continue up easily to a good ledge and belay below the huge upper corner.
3) 5a, 28m. Climb the corner all the way to the capping roofs and exit right via some very spectacular moves. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist.

brian watson 30/Sep AltLd dnf

P1 took huge lob from crux section which was running with water. Felt a bit run out lower down but crux moves all well protected. Rained and got soaked.

with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 25/Sep AltLd
janegallwey 25/Sep AltLd O/S

Led P1, fell off seconding P2

Hidden 30/Aug AltLd O/S
adi bryant 25/Aug AltLd

Rachel took the roof pitch on.. and won ☺️

with Rachel
Simon Allcock 22/Aug AltLd O/S

Wilki p1. i followed in rain - difficult smears on crux. p2 me. awesome pull round the big roof - just needed some commitment!

with Wilki
tobydunford 09/Aug AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
DavidBarraclough 31/Jul -
with Max
Alison Cairns 13/Jul Lead β

Led p1 - a long held ambition! Sec p2 - a classic tussle.

with Alice T
Hidden 08/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun AltLd O/S
mark4344 24/Jun AltLd O/S

Great variation of pitches.pitch 1 tricky face climbing,pitch 2 great corner and roof,strenuous.great gear throughout.

with Sue
Hidden 19/Jun 2nd
mila.and 19/Jun 2nd
with Ali Dickinson, Alkis
Alkis 19/Jun Lead O/S

I thought the last moves were miles harder than the crux of the first pitch.

with Alasdair Dickinson, Mila Antonova
dinodinosaur 18/Jun Lead O/S
with Hannah
HannahC 18/Jun 2nd rpt
with Dino
Hidden 18/Jun AltLd O/S
James S 17/Jun Lead O/S

Done as a brilliant long single pitch to avoid spending time on the wall belaying in the sun. Adds heaps of class to the route and I thoroughly recommend it for those with long enough ropes!

AlistairBerridge 16/Jun Lead dnf

Fell off last move of crux, really nice climbing will definitely complete it next year

with Lydia Patten, Lucy Manther
m.powell02 11/Jun AltLd rpt

Lead P2.

Hidden 11/Jun AltLd O/S
RussB 03/Jun Lead O/S

Lead 1st pitch with Alex years ago. Led final pitch accidentally from 1st pitch of little brown jug with Howard.

with Alex H, Howard
Howard4348 03/Jun AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2 were meant to be on little brown jug. spicy climb through roof to finish

with Russ
ClimbingAlex 29/May Lead RP

Just P1. Pleased to get this second time around. Dry rock and found both the undercuts on the crux this time - didn't feel that hard!

birks3746 27/May AltLd dnf

Didn't like the top pitch, backed off and finished up doorpost. Bottom pitch very nice

Avon Man 27/May AltLd O/S
with Derek
Hidden 19/May 2nd
Dizz 17/May 2nd O/S
with Julien
Dave Almond 14/May AltLd O/S

Bmc International meet

with Maria Soltesova
George_Surf 11/May Lead O/S

p1 was hard, difficult to read and very thin in places, pretty safe though. p2 was wild through the roof! loads of good cams but perplexing how to move through it, totally contrasting!

rachelpearce01 11/May 2nd O/S
m.powell02 08/May Lead dog

P1 was wet, but found the moves ok. Came off on the very last moves pulling through the final roof. Strenuous climbing in a wild position!

with Gemma
gem_stone12 08/May 2nd O/S
with Matty P
Andrew Sloan 02/May AltLd rpt

Led 2nd and 3rd pitches as one. Andy took his first lead fall on 1st pitch. This pitch is a fierce sustained 5b test piece. The top out through the overhang is desperate if you're no good at hand jamming; only just managed it clean.

with Andy
jack adams ?/May AltLd O/S
Alice Thompson ?/May Lead O/S

Lead pitch one in may, pitch two in july

evhall 28/Apr AltLd O/S

P1 +P2 together - nearly peeled off this one until I found the hidden jug by the crux...great route

with goat
kennythescot 20/Apr AltLd rpt
with Rich Mackie
Lumbering Oaf 19/Apr AltLd dog

I maintain that P1 is easier than P2. Dogged the final roof traverse.

manbat 19/Apr AltLd rpt

I led P1 in appalling style. Couldn't figure out the traverse onto the slab for the crux, so went up before stepping left. As soon as I set foot on the slab I was skitting around all over the place, like Bambi on ice! I don't know how I didn't fall off several times, and certainly deserved to. I felt unpleasantly greasy/polished. The debacle continued when met led on to the top...

FlavioL1989 17/Apr 2nd O/S
with Jenny
lyneux 17/Apr 2nd dog

Cleanly followed Paul up the first pitch. Fell off at the overhang and used prussics!

with Paul Clarkson
JendeHoxar 17/Apr Lead O/S
Jess patel 14/Apr AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. Amazing route

with mike thomas
Sarah Black 14/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr AltLd O/S
Sardien 13/Apr AltLd O/S

Led P2&3, awkward but ultimately fun going through the roof. Felt hard, 5b too i think.

The Grist 10/Apr Lead O/S

Led pitch 1. Crux was slightly wet. Second pitch was highly amusing. Great climb.

toktam ?/Apr 2nd
with Zaheer
Jack Porteous 25/Mar AltLd O/S

Top pitch

Gerben Neven 25/Mar 2nd

Did the last pitch after going up on Doorway, to avoid the wet lower pitches

ClimbingAlex 22/Jan Lead dog

Led P2 - lobbed off on the final move, foot popped on the small smear - rested and stuck the final moves! Wild climbing and definitely felt harder than 5a!

with Matt
Matt Magecha 14/Jan AltLd
with Alex
ClimbingAlex 14/Jan Lead dnf

Couldn't get past the crux on P1 - couldn't for the life of me work out the moves of the technical crack & it was sopping wet which didn't help! One to come back to.

with Matt
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
irish paul ??/2017 AltLd O/S

Nut stuck (lost) on crux, snapped my nut key, poo'd on by a bird, rope got stuck and then it rained as I topped out. Nice route mind.

Hidden ??/2017 -
steve.aisthorpe 11/Oct/16 AltLd
with John Lyall
georgeevans88 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S

First pitch very technical. Some very committing feeling undercling moves. Top end E1. Gear is adequate but not incredible. P2 actually way easier than expected. You get a good rest under the roof, good gear and then just a couple of strenuous moves.

WillDoyle ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/16 AltLd
LJC 22/Sep/16 AltLd


with Theo
theocelano 22/Sep/16 AltLd

lead middle link up pitch

with luca
Rocky 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Remus
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Sep/16 2nd
Jmpollard 15/Sep/16 Lead O/S

First pitch was great! Really thin technical climbing, and the last pitch was a real treat in an outrageous position!

Longsufferingropeholder 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
J.A.Thomson 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Dan
efrance24234 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Just pitch 1

ianstevens 15/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


joedean 15/Aug/16 AltLd
ad111 15/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
HannahC 04/Aug/16 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/16 AltLd dog
beni 23/Jul/16 TR
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 14/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Wasn't expecting the amazing finish to top pitch, Dom led spectacularly,

Hidden 14/Jul/16 AltLd dog
eel 08/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
with Anna
Hidden 08/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
timrooker 16/Jun/16 AltLd dog

Alex - 'is the cam good?' Tim (takes a whipper) - 'cam's good!' Led the 5a pitch and fell from the penultimate move across the roof, jumped back on and finished no problems

amccann 16/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
JRJones 15/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

P1, Fantastic route, first pitch is indeed a pretty special thin wall, P2 completely different, but still excellent

chrismadar 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Really nice technical first pitch and then the moves coming through the roof are pretty awkward. Amazing route though,

kateharborne 14/Jun/16 2nd β
lcullum7 14/Jun/16 2nd O/S
kyaizawa 14/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Alex Wade 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
partz 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 and 3

OliverRoss 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah Fong
George.Rowland 11/Jun/16 2nd

W/ will and Adrian at CCF. Amazing moves under the roof!

Hidden 11/Jun/16 AltLd
hornbywill 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Awesome climbing.

with Adrian Parsons
Hidden 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
charleybaby5287 30/May/16 2nd
robgixer 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Charley
Hidden 14/May/16 2nd rpt
Wendy Watthews 14/May/16 Lead rpt

Seconded a few years ago when I first started climbing. Great to lead with nice moves, I put so much gear in the last pitch I felt very sorry for jake who had to second removing it all.

with JakeB.
Jack J Keogan 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Both pitches. Awesome.

tcn_2002 30/Apr/16 AltLd
onlyfoddington 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S

I lead the last pitch, and made hard work of it. The 1st pitch was harder on the thin ledges than I expected, thought the diagonal crack was easier than I feared. Good lead by Tom.

with Tom C
Jess Carr ?/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Rich Pollard
Hugobristol 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Did the first pitch and then (getting dark) finished up doorpost. The first pitch was great although it could only accurately be described as soaking. The final layback had running water.

with Eleanor, Anya
EC 13/Mar/16 -
with Anya, Hugo
greedo ??/2016 Lead O/S

Top pitch only.

with Bob butcher
Hidden ??/2016 -
JoeCoxson 22/Oct/15 2nd rpt

Solid lead by Naomi, climbing is as good as I remember.

Hidden 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
lukesh 17/Oct/15 AltLd

led pitch 2

lukegorman 17/Oct/15 2nd
with JakeB.
Hamish777 04/Oct/15 2nd dnf

Fantastic lead by Andrea.

with Andrea
andrea83 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Found this intimidating. Can't believe I managed to get up it without a fall! First pitch-found plenty of gear but really fiddly to place and thin moves. Used four micro nuts and a micro cam (in addition to my other gear) and they don't get used that often normally. Was nervous leading the third pitch after doing the first. Couldn't convince Hamish to take it. That was also tricky, not much for the feet. Took a couple of tries to commit. Good gear though. Overall-fantastic climb, three stars.

with Hamish
elliptic 03/Oct/15 2nd
with Nick E.
Jackislav 25/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & 2 ran together. Great route shame about p2, bit pants!

Will Mortimer 25/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
manbat 24/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Matt B: P1. Found seconding pitch 1 tricky business, especially as it rained during my ascent. Wouldn't have wanted to lead it. Pitch 2: Took a bit of thinking about, but it's not hard once you commit.

Lumbering Oaf 24/Sep/15 AltLd RP

Dogged this route last time. Led P1. Lots of gear. Manbat P2: solid leading at top. Great route.

alice fuller 20/Sep/15 Lead β

lead the 1st pitch in April. lead the second pitch today.Had seconded both before

Spearos 06/Sep/15 -
with whenry
Hidden 06/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/15 AltLd
Mark Kemball 01/Aug/15 AltLd
with David Smart
Jack Porteous 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

First pitch only

ChrisBrooke 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

P1, Dunc P2. Fab route with everything but the kitchen sink. P1 was quite hard climbing, with thin protection where it counted. Took my time to commit to the step up on the crux as the polish was a bit unnerving. The slab on P2 was great and the finish was a lot of fun. Dunc was fully committed swinging around on the finishing jugs. I was able to lank it out by doing the splits to a little foot nubbin on the right and pull the moves in control :) Yoga.

with Duncan Bell
Compo 28/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Stu Bradbury
andrzej kierzek 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3.

with Tara
elliptic 18/Jul/15 AltLd
with Pete M.
spragglerocks 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Lead p1,2 and then the crux of p3. Brilliant route, plentiful (small) gear.

Lumbering Oaf 15/Jul/15 2nd dog

Ran as two pitches. As second on P1: fell at the crux but got it on second attempt. As lead on P2: commitment issues at crux . Climbed as second.

benkelsey 07/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Pitch one followed by traversing off right for 40m to the ground. Easier than expecting.

with Shaun Humphreys
Hidden 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
bryan61 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Mr Cess
JoeCoxson 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Awesome start to the day. Gear was spaced by never too run out on the first pitch, and top pitch is just spectacular once you commit.

Stu.Cossey 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
huwbrace 17/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Tiff Vaggas 17/Jun/15 2nd
afrosam 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
benjaminloveday 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jun/15 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
CraigOsborne ?/Jun/15 Lead dog

Ran first two piches together clean onsight then fell off the roof at the top of the final pitch. Pulled on and got it second time after finding the jug at the top of the flake

Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd
Dave Rumney 26/May/15 AltLd O/S

6'5" is not a good height for the top pitch finish.

with Tanya Milner
Rachel S 25/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Cal
KimberlyJarrad 23/May/15 2nd O/S

Only climbed pitch one, finished up Doorpost. Fell off start.

Billg 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
Tim_C7 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, lovely route and two contrasting cruxes.

with Henry G
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 22/May/15 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Good climb, crack a little bit wet on the 1st pitch due to mist and clag!

Hidden 22/May/15 2nd dog
jimmatthews 22/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch one, 5b.

Hidden 21/May/15 AltLd
Mike_Hayes 16/May/15 Lead
with dan parkes
Hidden 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
snook 16/May/15 AltLd dnf

Lead P2 and P3 but had to exit out left from the roof as had unbeknowlingly put cam where you need to put you hand for the first move. will not do this next time haha

ad111 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd O/S
stephen ashworth 16/May/15 Lead

P1 only.

with Alex cox
waydan 16/May/15 AltLd

Fantastic climb

dbrooks 10/May/15 AltLd O/S

p1 + p3, first pitch was pretty sodden which made it pretty scary... wild moves at the top of the final pitch, pretty intimidating

with gidmord
gidmord 10/May/15 AltLd

Fell off top pitch. Lead second pitch

with dbrooks
fulton333 07/May/15 Lead

Wet crux made it tricky

Si ?/May/15 Lead dog

Fell off P1. Thought was thin and nails!

mattkemp70 ?/May/15 AltLd dog
with Westy
jgordon75 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S


Martin Bagshaw 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Catherine's first e1

Katsmiff 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Martin lead and ran the first 2 pitches into one. I lead the last pitch. The guide book said finish on some spectacular moves. My first E1 lead, wasn't feeling very spectacular but the overhang was very manageable in the end :)

w.pettet-smith ?/Jan/15 AltLd
Mine2209 ??/2015 AltLd
with Mick hunter
kenhansard ??/2015 AltLd

Continued up first pitch to belay under ghost making a 40m pitch. Short traverse right 5b then rejoin thin wall for the last pitch. Overall e2 I thought

with Rich bull
Hidden ??/2015 -
clairejane ??/2015 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, First route on Cornish Granite... Felt ever so slightly desperate and ... greasy... Party on Doorpost directed me on to that rather than climb other their ropes to the belay, then complained so I climbed and down climbed that...Will lead second pitch thank god as I'd have been terrified.

with will
Hidden ??/2015 -
beni ??/2015 Lead
ferdia 29/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 29/Nov/14 2nd

Second pitch only.

with Ferdia
Spearos 06/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
with Riggo
eel 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Howard
petegruf 31/Aug/14 2nd
cem 31/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Led p1

Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Tom Seccombe 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Louise Street
david morse 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch

with chris todd
Hidden 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
markalmack 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with gwen, james marjot
Hidden 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
mdjb 22/Jul/14 -
Ewan Russell 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

1st and 2nd

with Tom Nichols
Hidden 12/Jul/14 AltLd
peter.ravenscroft27 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Wow! what a climb.

Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead
oddtoast 06/Jul/14 2nd dog

Just p1, fell in middle, tricky balancing moves on slippy feet with thin hands.

with Gav
bencole ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

P1 only, had nobody willing to second me on this.

with Dad
dynodean 24/Jun/14 2nd dog

Started on HVS variation of Little Brown Jug then ended on this. Fell off several times trying to get past the roofs.

with Alan
AndrewP 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead it all, running P1 and 2 together. P1 is hard with tricky moves on marginal holds and shiny smears. The roof at the top is brilliant fun - no footholds but there's a crucial jug up high in the crack if you feel around for it.

with Steve Kedward
SteveK 22/Jun/14 2nd dog

Fell off the last pitch while traversing under the roof. Got the jug on 2nd attempt which was Jugulicious :)

Emma Reynolds 21/Jun/14 2nd

A lot of effort required for final overhang, but with nice rest.

Sdentzel 21/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Did it in 2 pitches. I lead first pitch: fun climbing, tricky small gear, exciting! I had a fall near the end of the tricky section... don't forget to remember where the feet are :) A really great varied climb, starts out with a little tricky slab section then really easy climbing then a interesting overhung crack up top to finish up. ***** A must do!

with Ian
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
kyaizawa 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Thought it was pretty straightforward and true at the grade - good holds linking good moves, between decent rests and gear.

Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
hotfeet 14/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Some very thin holds on the first pitch. The final moves of the final pitch are a real contrast. Two very contrasting pitches.

danboast 13/Jun/14 Lead rpt
jon_ridley 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

the crack was a bit wet!

Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
kennythescot 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
strudles 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead
Vincej 18/Apr/14 2nd
ashtond6 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Felt 5c due to polish, soft E2?

Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead
JoeE ?/Mar/14 2nd
with Irish Joe
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2014 -
gg4419 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Luxulyan 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Tim
tim.fairhall 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

As 2 pitches; led P2

with Richard
nickstephens 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
AlexD 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Ed Babs 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

P1 + 2

with AlexD
Bristoldave 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Top pitch def worthwhile

with justin
chris j 31/Aug/13 Lead

Lead top corner/overhang pitch.

with Nick Saunders
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Julesthe1st 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I love climbs that have contrasting pitches. This is one

with Mike
dready 19/Aug/13 2nd

part 1 only its quite balancey

NancyJones 03/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
Justin T 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nancy
Hidden 04/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
GPN 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Annette
net 03/Jul/13 2nd
with George
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Had a 'mare on a straightforward section of P1, going about it all the wrong way to get around a reachy hold. Cruised the crux of P1, and found p3 (our p2) good fun and fine once the psych was built (on second however :)). You just need belief that the holds are there (particularlly the top of the flake in the crack).

AJM 27/Jun/13 2nd rpt

P1. Finished up doorpost.

with Sophie Wynne-Jones
tim.fairhall 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Hui
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Louise Hall 01/Jun/13 2nd dog

Enjoyed P1+2, had a right mare on P3, mostly because I did not know this climb ended with massive overhangs!

Pieterjan De Roo 13/May/13 Lead O/S
drysori 13/May/13 AltLd
with Viktor
Nick Wallis ?/May/13 AltLd
with BMC international meet
chrisallan 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Dilwat 12/Apr/13 Lead O/S

P2 only as p1 wet

with dready
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
adie84 ??/2013 -
Stroppy 27/Oct/12 Lead dog

Slipped and fell on a soaking wet P1, got back up and did it (this time with an extra number 1 nut, needs at least 3). Also led P3 which was fantastic, big juggy moves, swinging around on granite overhangs.

with Andy Waterfield
andrew549 27/Oct/12 2nd
El3ctroFuzz 29/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
with Paul Roberts
stuart34 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
s.c.white 08/Sep/12 -
Dean Russell 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Bex_M 19/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Duncan Dunbar
Trippinjester 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Paul_southgate68 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant sequence at the start, felt hard. Another top route ***

alastairbegley 26/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Colin lead with the first pitch with just the one ground sweeping fall

with Colin
Hidden 09/Jul/12 Lead
Alor_lab 23/Jun/12 2nd dog

Fell once on the first pitch. Great lead by Jon

with Jon L
jonleighton 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent varied climbing. Quite a battle at the roof!

ferdia 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

First 2 pitches only (run together), before seeking out Litte Brown Jug to escape the belay ledge crowds

with Rozzy Pedder
jimmyrua 03/Jun/12 AltLd
jon_gill1 03/Jun/12 AltLd dog

had to rest under the roof!

with mike walton
pete87abs 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with james
tom.e 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Alan
burto 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
Reaver2k 08/Apr/12 AltLd
with tom.e
Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd
dprctr 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Lovely sunny day. Lead pitch 1 and 2 combined and pitch 3 after. 1st one was wet with some interesting delicate movement. But all the fun is in the top roof. Banged my helmet a few times trying to get involved but once up all the holds are great.

with Steven ODL
Alan100 06/Apr/12 AltLd

Great route with very different styles at the start and finish! First pitch didn't feel a thin as expected - kept finding decent foot/hand placements just as they were needed. Very satisfying. Skipped the first belay and ran the first pitches together - no reason not to with doubles. Last pitch was awkward jammed up against the roof - reckon it's easier for shorties!

Dave89 06/Apr/12 AltLd dog

Tried to lead 2nd pitch Hid in corner abbed down Al Led and 2nded through. Will be back with brave pills.

with RichardN, Fat Al
stevepotter 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Dave P
RichardN 06/Apr/12 2nd dog
3 Names 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Sumee lead pitch 2, me pitch 1

greenclimb 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 AltLd
with Rick Graham
jess ?/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with martin
francois 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Solid lead by Chris on P1 who found some crucial micronut placements. Led P2 and P3. The crux on P3 was perplexing rather than burly.

with Chris
BelayBunney 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Really enjoyable climb - I led first pitch: delicate and a bit thin on protection (take your micros - peanuts fit well!) Francois led last pitch (and intermediate linking pitch) - the roof is quite a tricky and burly move and not a comfortable place to be hanging around!

Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Ed morris 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Proper E1.Led both crux pitches.

with ewan
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
HarryB 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Al
Wendy Watthews 16/Mar/12 AltLd dog

lead easy ungraded linking pitch, very spectacular watching alex cut lose from second belay :) bounced a little on the rope on brutish finish

arandall 16/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I did pitch 1 and 3. Not completely onsight as I seconded the first pitch a couple of years ago but don't remember any of it. 1st pitch was brilliant, protection felt ok as long as you pretend the Imps are indestructible Which loony graded the last pitch as 5a?! I had to cut loose to get past it. 3 star route :)

JonBrown 03/Mar/12 AltLd RP

Not in the bst style, but P1 was polished on the footholds, and E1 5b on mostly micros!??! The pitches contrasted so much in style, you needed to have wits about you. Sophie was fearless (atleast from the belay) for running P2 & P3 together, blasting through the two thuggy roofs! I finished the route in the dark

Sophie Nunn 03/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Dale ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

After doing bow wall jumped on this. I lead first pitch whats going on? Why is this route so slick. Very technicle climbing I slipped and nearly fell at one point due to polished footholds and a small greasy hand hold but managed to hold on. Tim had top pitch 5a what a joke 5b, but amzing climbing going right threw that huge overhang. 3 stars all the way on par with bow wall

with Tim
domskezz 22/Sep/11 Lead

Thought i'd got my head round the climbing down in Cornwall after flying up a few routes but this was a real struggle. I found the first pitch quite polished and really hard as a result. Third pitch was fine until the brutal ending, just managed it after a few heart fluttering retreats.

with Jamma
Cragrat Rich 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led throughout in one pitch. Surprisingly easy lower section and a thuggishly brutal ending!

Hidden 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 21/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Rik
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd
andysroom 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Lizzie
Stone Muppet 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S

P1 into Doorpost

with ah
Jack_F 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
adam cooper*super* 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

felt 5b, quality first pitch.

tatz45 ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch.

nicolat ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with James Mitchell
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
richsmithinbristol 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

John Tanner 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

First pitch is great. Paddy finished up Doorpost in one long pitch, which was also great

mrstarwarsman 07/Jul/11 AltLd
CRiddiford 23/Jun/11 AltLd

mike p1, me p2

with Mike
Hidden 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
danboast 14/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Several large falls at the first pitch's crux finally persuaded me that I'm not quite ready for E1s yet.

JamPlastick 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lead First

Brannock 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Mega route, had a completely awesome nightmare on it, got lost on the first pitch pendlumed off a brass offset to get back on route, took two falls on the roof of the 3rd pitch ripping load of skin off my finger, topped out with blood stains everywhere and a thumping head ache from dehydration, amazing experience.

nickstephens 11/Jun/11 Lead dog

Spent a little longer on the bottom putting quite a bit of gear in and then ended up sitting on the ropes after trying the top in a variety of ways. Most annoying bit is that I ended up doing the route exactely as intially attempted after missing the next hand hold on first atttempt.

with Graham Hadaway
Alexstone 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Busy day. Zappa breezed P1. Hour queuing at the belay was time to enough settle nerves for leading P2

with zappa lymn
redshapedfriday 11/Jun/11 2nd β

excellent route, polished in places but good gear all the way

with nick stevens
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mrrjmcneil ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Jason Ivor
hamish2016 ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Oli
gowla 31/May/11 AltLd O/S
with will kumar
manwithacam 29/May/11 AltLd

couldnt do top pitch clean. Thuggy and nothing thin about it! Bottom pitch nice and technical.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 29/May/11 AltLd dog

I did the last pitch. Damn that roof was tricky. Couldn't work the move out and had to take a rest.

Misha 28/May/11 AltLd

Phil did very well to lead a very damp P1. Was ok seconding but some tricky moves due to the conditions. I led P2 and P3 together. The offwidth traverse was very awkward (a head jam helped) but fun in a way. It was also slightly damp to add to the challenge.

with Helen, Phil
philhilo 28/May/11 AltLd O/S

It was wet - and bl**dy hard!Thought the crux was dry low down. Alas the crux was the crack, and the smears and handholds were wet making it all very sketchy. 1st pitch good gear but felt like E2 5c. Fab clean second by Helen. Misha took top pitch which was equally wet and challenging going around the roof.

Master Chief 25/May/11 AltLd rpt

Lead pitch 1 and 3! awesome route but top pitch isnt 5a!

with Jeremy
masa-alpin 30/Apr/11 2nd β

We climbed The Chicken Run for the P1. Doug lead it (P2 and P3). Excellent top pitch.

with Jo B, Doug S
cem 30/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

Led p1

drcorbasisgod 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead dnf
liamoloughlin 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
mtempest 24/Apr/11 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 24/Apr/11 AltLd

P1 was the hardest pitch climbed all week (including the crux of Suicide Wall). Felt like there were a couple of 5b moves lower down and then a 5c crux where I was convinced my feet would slip but in fact held. A great lead by Mike. P2 was amazing and thoroughly worthwhile. Had to race at the start to get established ahead of a bemused lady climbing Doorway. Good rest and protection before the lower overlap and then similar before committing to the final moves. 5a for P2 seems reasonable - but then I am used to climbing Peak grit.

Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Jez 22/Apr/11 AltLd β

Nice repeat - Lead 1st pitch

with NJSharp
mark20 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1+2

Hidden 21/Apr/11 AltLd
jakenichol 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch....sandbag. brilliant

Hidden 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
jeffb 18/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Fell off near the top of P1 on the undercut hold...was psyched and couldn't suss the next move....One to return to.

with Calder
misterb 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S

wet but very good climbing

with wain
Master Chief 13/Mar/11 AltLd dog

Went up with wrong hand on last move of the climb and had to rest on rope before getting it second time!! Excellent climb though!

Spearos 13/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead p1+p3. p1 technical and exposed, glad I borrowed some of Tom's peanuts. p3 easy until a good but cramped rest while working out thuggy final moves. good route.

Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
monsteratt 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Andy did P1 and P2 together. I did p3. P1 was QI a bit harder than expected from the ground. Interesting smear mvong up to undercut move quite glad I wasn't leading. P3 was very exciting. Had some good rests on the convenient flake under the final roof. Good end to the day.

Andrew Abraham 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
James Mitchelmore 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd
El3ctroFuzz 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p3. Tim Led p2. Very Enjoyable climbing, possibly a little bit of a Hard E1, but not harder than 5b. Its a shame to see that most people have missed out the last pitch. Which is truely awesome, and easy if u know what to do!

with Sparkles.
tim exley 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with tom bunn
GraMc 07/Sep/10 AltLd O/S


with kat torr, emily roo
Hidden 07/Sep/10 AltLd dog
Philippa Arding 01/Sep/10 2nd
with helen pitt
hepitt ?/Sep/10 Lead
with Phillipa Arding
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dog
Jim Slater 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Climbed P1 only

Speeddemonsi 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dave Lacey 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf
jak.kelly 15/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

Complete failure

Hidden 12/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Si dH 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led 1st pitch (and second run in to it), Tom led top pitch.

with Tom Lambert, Neil Furniss
brockers 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/10 2nd
tebs 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Rip-roaring good stuff. 1st pitch into the last 2 pitches (linked) of Doorpost. Thin Wall Spesh was a ruddy good pitch. Scary undercut move.

with Tim
HimTiggins 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Finished up pitched 2 & 3 of doorpost.

with Bart
metal arms 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

lukea 09/Jul/10 Lead β
with Al
Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
melonmike 16/Jun/10 AltLd
AJM 30/May/10 Lead O/S

P1 only - finished up Doorpost to give what was essentially "Doorpost direct". An excellent pitch which I'd wanted to do for ages.

verticon 12/May/10 Lead O/S
with Craig Harwood
Harald 12/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/10 AltLd
Different Steve 10/May/10 AltLd rpt

Led upper roof section - hideous!

with Mick Walsh
simonp ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Lucy Ham
benkelsey 15/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
raku 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S

was wet and horible, a true epic! only 1st pitch, finiched by doorway?

Dan_Carroll 09/Apr/10 Lead rpt
ollie1 09/Apr/10 AltLd
phil64 ?/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
JerryD ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
nickstephens 18/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Ran out of time so traversed out towards "Andrew" after finishing the first pitch. Fantastic pitch though and I will defintely go back and finish the route in the near future.

Don Jebus 17/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
joese7en 17/Oct/09 AltLd rpt

very worthwhile, top pitch is awkward

chris j 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Doug
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead
joese7en 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
shane54 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
chris sm 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
tweedcore 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
d_meacher 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/09 2nd O/S
Chad123 03/May/09 AltLd O/S

Fun route, delicate first pitch and burly second (never 5a!) Crowds of people everywhere....

with Sam
Ben Harper 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Dave Moir and Steven Mayor
dmoir 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Harper and Mayer
Ben Snook 02/May/09 AltLd
JackMountains 02/May/09 AltLd dog

wet crux where i fell on 1st pitch

cem 10/Apr/09 AltLd rpt

Led final pitch

riddle 10/Apr/09 AltLd dnf

Didnt read the guide book closely enough and ended up on Bow Wall escaping along the traverse.

mikeyjbs 09/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd
Anna Horrox 01/Aug/08 2nd

led pitch 2, pitch 3 not clean

clive-greenwood 01/Aug/08 Lead dog

Fell on the last moves on the top pitch. Used gear to reach the finishing holds. Blast!

with Anna
Matt Bennett 22/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
cornishben 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Led the first pitch

with barnaby carver
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
lukehodson 12/Jun/08 2nd O/S

lovely first pitch, sandbag top pitch. surely this route is E2?

with Harry Allan
Hidden 09/Jun/08 2nd
jfreeman 09/Jun/08 2nd
with Simon and Nick
bfreeman 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Lea
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead β
Popkids 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S

This was a fantasic route.Climbed as 1st pitch of Doorpost.

with Kafoozalem
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Subwaycups ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
adrianj 06/May/08 2nd
Hidden 06/May/08 Lead O/S
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Rowansb ?/Jul/07 Lead rpt
drysori 08/Jun/07 AltLd

Led first pitch. First Cornish E1.

Hidden 08/Jun/07 AltLd
Sidekick ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
jfreeman ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Rigler
Hidden 29/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 29/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Kine D
Beck Robinson 12/Apr/07 2nd dog
Dan_Carroll 12/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Top pitch more like 5b I think.

with Rebecca Holland
climber sim ??/2007 -
Bob Peters ??/2007 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
whispering nic 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with The Wife
Hidden 07/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo 12/Jun/06 Lead
with Jason Lee
hal ?/Jun/06 Lead
with Virgil Scott
reg_measures 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
with timmy elson
Hidden 05/May/06 Lead O/S
wojt ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/05 Lead
lukea 15/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Al
Mark Stevenson 02/Apr/05 AltLd rpt
cem 26/Mar/05 AltLd rpt

Led p1

Lev 06/Feb/05 Lead O/S

Did the Chicken Run variation, the unprotected run out looked more appealing than the dripping wet finger crack

with Andrew Bitmead
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
feilx ??/2005 -
with keith
skygodley 25/Jun/04 Lead O/S
leadmat ?/May/04 Lead O/S

First pitch tricky. Second pitch great move around roof.

with Murray Hodgson
lukea 29/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 16/Jun/03 2nd
EllieWoods 23/Apr/03 2nd O/S
with Alex
Mark Stevenson 20/Apr/03 Lead dnf

Rained off at top of first pitch.

with Cleddy
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Dan
Rob Kinsey ??/2003 Lead
William Robertson ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Emily
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Rob Pitt ??/2003 -
Samuel P 05/Oct/02 2nd
with Luke
Hidden 12/Aug/02 2nd
shoulders 04/Aug/02 Lead
peterbeaumont ?/Jul/02 Lead
cem 29/Mar/02 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Rob Smithies
Hidden 01/Aug/01 Lead
pezzerrr 28/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd
Ian Jones ?/Sep/00 Lead rpt

Did pitch one about 1978 with Dave Greenald.

with Matt York
Hidden ?/Sep/00 AltLd
Rob Oram 28/Aug/00 2nd O/S

A really nice climb with contrasting pitches. The first was really techincal and the second nice and easy up to a thuggy roof!

with OS
stuart100 18/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with Ian Brown
jfletcher 28/Jun/00 Lead
timreynolds 29/Apr/00 Lead dnf

Crux was wet, so traversed onto Doorpost

nickdonohue 09/Apr/00 AltLd
with Joe Brown
goi.ashmore 10/Mar/00 Lead O/S

Led Pitch 2

with Roy Thomas
Hidden ?/Jan/00 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
NickP ??/2000 -
plain kitten ??/2000 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
VPJB ??/2000 -
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead rpt

Very good.

with Gary Wickham
Roget 17/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with jim
goi.ashmore 02/Aug/99 Lead O/S

Pitch 1

with Roy Thomas
duncan ?/Apr/99 AltLd rpt
PaulTanton 10/Aug/98 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Mar/98 AltLd
with Andy MacNae
Just Another Dave ??/1998 AltLd
with Ben Hope, Jo Bertalot, Laura
Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd
with Moggs
duncan 19/Apr/97 Lead rpt
Greg Cunningham ?/Mar/97 AltLd
with andy mcarthy
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 -
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
lost.arrow 11/May/96 AltLd
with Iain Kerr
frost ?/May/95 -
GAtkins 19/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/95 AltLd
Mark Kemball 25/Jun/94 Lead
with Matt Vigg
Hidden 19/Jun/94 2nd O/S
djones66 ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S

Did as two good pitches (the 'middle pitch' can sensibly be done with Pitch 1). P1 hardest moves and a bit bold, but top pitch great fun (when you've worked out how to it) and well safe. Recommended.

with Mark Jones
uphillnow ?/Aug/93 Lead

hot day,sweaty

with Margaret Smith
steve taylor ?/Mar/92 AltLd
with mike robertson
Hidden 17/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/91 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/90 AltLd
NickJH ?/Aug/90 2nd

pitch 1 only

TonyF ?/May/90 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
Hidden ??/1990 -
Nigel Coe ??/1990 -

Much less traumatic than The Chicken Run.

with Welsh Mike from the wall
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 13/Aug/89 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Mike Owen 09/Aug/88 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
scree ?/May/88 -
with Dave H
Eduardo Martinez 20/Aug/87 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Alan Pow
Nigel Bond 05/Oct/85 Lead
rogerskews 05/Oct/85 -
Steve Lewis 09/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
with Lyndsey
charlesmfrench 28/Jul/85 Lead O/S
RichardMc 08/Apr/85 2nd
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
keefe 24/Aug/84 -
Hidden 02/Aug/84 AltLd
Campbell42 ?/Aug/84 AltLd O/S
with Eric Marsden
steveboote ??/1983 -
with Rona Owen
jon ?/May/82 Lead
with Elaine, paul m
Roy Stuart ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Billy Bones
The Reaper 28/Aug/81 AltLd
Hammy 11/Aug/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
Hidden ?/Jun/81 -
DanW ??/1981 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/80 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with Others, FMC
duncan ?/Aug/79 Lead O/S
with Simon Reed
Mike Owen 29/Jul/79 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
Simon cook ??/1978 -
D Tempest ?/Jan/76 AltLd
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
Martin Bennett 08/Aug/73 -
with RA
Dave Musgrove ?/Sep/69 AltLd
with Andy Wild, Dennis Gray
43 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 114
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 113
Votes cast 108
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set