Rockfax Description
A popular Extreme, which has a particularly attractive first pitch that is often climbed in its own right. Start below a diagonal black seam at a finger ledge above a low horizontal break.
1) 5b, 26m. Move up to, and stand on the finger ledge. Follow the thin line leftwards to a small overhang and continue up the technical crack to an easing below the steep wall above. Follow the diagonal line rightwards to a belay on a ledge.
2) 11m. Continue up easily to a good ledge and belay below the huge upper corner.
3) 5a, 28m. Climb the corner all the way to the capping roofs and exit right via some very spectacular moves. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist.

ClimbingAlex 22/Jan Lead dog

Led P2 - lobbed off on the final move, foot popped on the small hold - rested and stuck the final moves! Wild climbing and definitely felt harder than 5a!

with Matt
ClimbingAlex 14/Jan Lead dnf

Couldn't get past the crux on P1 - couldn't for the life of me work out the moves of the technical crack & it was sopping wet which didn't help! One to come back to.

with Matt
steve.aisthorpe 11/Oct/16 AltLd
with John Lyall
georgeevans88 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S

First pitch very technical. Some very committing feeling undercling moves. Top end E1. Gear is adequate but not incredible. P2 actually way easier than expected. You get a good rest under the roof, good gear and then just a couple of strenuous moves.

Hidden ?/Oct/16 AltLd
LJC 22/Sep/16 AltLd


with Theo
theocelano 22/Sep/16 AltLd

lead middle link up pitch

with luca
remus 17/Sep/16 Lead rpt

P1 only. Easy this time. Still feel like bambi on granite though, no feel for the positions.

Rocky 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Remus
Jmpollard 15/Sep/16 Lead O/S

First pitch was great! Really thin technical climbing, and the last pitch was a real treat in an outrageous position!

Hidden 15/Sep/16 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
J.A.Thomson 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Dan
efrance24234 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Just pitch 1

ianstevens 15/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


Hidden 15/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
joedean 15/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/16 AltLd dog
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
beni 23/Jul/16 TR
Owen W-G 14/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Wasn't expecting the amazing finish to top pitch, Dom led spectacularly,

Hidden 14/Jul/16 AltLd dog
eel 08/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
with Anna
Hidden 08/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
amccann 16/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
timrooker 16/Jun/16 AltLd dog

Alex - 'is the cam good?' Tim (takes a whipper) - 'cam's good!' Led the 5a pitch and fell from the penultimate move across the roof, jumped back on and finished no problems

JRJones 15/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

P1, Fantastic route, first pitch is indeed a pretty special thin wall, P2 completely different, but still excellent

lcullum7 14/Jun/16 2nd O/S
chrismadar 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Really nice technical first pitch and then the moves coming through the roof are pretty awkward. Amazing route though,

kyaizawa 14/Jun/16 Lead rpt
kateharborne 14/Jun/16 2nd β
George.Rowland 11/Jun/16 2nd

W/ will and Adrian at CCF. Amazing moves under the roof!

Hidden 11/Jun/16 AltLd
hornbywill 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Awesome climbing.

with Adrian Parsons
partz 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 and 3

OliverRoss 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah Fong
Alex Wade 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
robgixer 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Charley
Wendy Watthews 14/May/16 Lead rpt

Seconded a few years ago when I first started climbing. Great to lead with nice moves, I put so much gear in the last pitch I felt very sorry for jake who had to second removing it all.

with JakeB.
Hidden 14/May/16 2nd rpt
Jack J Keogan 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Both pitches. Awesome.

onlyfoddington 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S

I lead the last pitch, and made hard work of it. The 1st pitch was harder on the thin ledges than I expected, thought the diagonal crack was easier than I feared. Good lead by Tom.

with Tom C
tcn_2002 30/Apr/16 AltLd
red quinnie ?/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Rich Pollard
Hugobristol 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Did the first pitch and then (getting dark) finished up doorpost. The first pitch was great although it could only accurately be described as soaking. The final layback had running water.

with Eleanor, Anya
EC 13/Mar/16 -
with Anya, Hugo
Hidden ??/2016 -
greedo ??/2016 Lead O/S

Top pitch only.

with Bob butcher
Hidden 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 22/Oct/15 2nd rpt

Solid lead by Naomi, climbing is as good as I remember.

with Naomi
lukesh 17/Oct/15 AltLd

led pitch 2

Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
lukegorman 17/Oct/15 2nd
with JakeB.
Hamish777 04/Oct/15 2nd dnf

Fantastic lead by Andrea.

with Andrea
andrea83 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Found this intimidating. Can't believe I managed to get up it without a fall! First pitch-found plenty of gear but really fiddly to place and thin moves. Used four micro nuts and a micro cam (in addition to my other gear) and they don't get used that often normally. Was nervous leading the third pitch after doing the first. Couldn't convince Hamish to take it. That was also tricky, not much for the feet. Took a couple of tries to commit. Good gear though. Overall-fantastic climb, three stars.

with Hamish
elliptic 03/Oct/15 2nd
with Nick E.
Jackislav 25/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & 2 ran together. Great route shame about p2, bit pants!

Will Mortimer 25/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 24/Sep/15 AltLd RP

Dogged this route last time. Led P1. Lots of gear. Manbat P2: solid leading at top. Great route.

manbat 24/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Matt B: P1. Found seconding pitch 1 tricky business, especially as it rained during my ascent. Wouldn't have wanted to lead it. Pitch 2: Took a bit of thinking about, but it's not hard once you commit.

alice fuller 20/Sep/15 Lead β

lead the 1st pitch in April. lead the second pitch today.Had seconded both before

Spearos 06/Sep/15 -
with whenry
Hidden 06/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd
Mark Kemball 01/Aug/15 AltLd
with David Smart
Hidden 01/Aug/15 AltLd
ChrisBrooke 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

P1, Dunc P2. Fab route with everything but the kitchen sink. P1 was quite hard climbing, with thin protection where it counted. Took my time to commit to the step up on the crux as the polish was a bit unnerving. The slab on P2 was great and the finish was a lot of fun. Dunc was fully committed swinging around on the finishing jugs. I was able to lank it out by doing the splits to a little foot nubbin on the right and pull the moves in control :) Yoga.

with Duncan Bell
Jack Porteous 30/Jul/15 AltLd dog

First pitch only

Compo 28/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Stu Bradbury
andrzej kierzek 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3.

with Tara
elliptic 18/Jul/15 AltLd
with Pete M.
spragglerocks 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Lead p1,2 and then the crux of p3. Brilliant route, plentiful (small) gear.

Lumbering Oaf 15/Jul/15 2nd dog

Ran as two pitches. As second on P1: fell at the crux but got it on second attempt. As lead on P2: commitment issues at crux . Climbed as second.

benkelsey 07/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Pitch one followed by traversing off right for 40m to the ground. Easier than expecting.

with Shaun Humphreys
Hidden 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
bryan61 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Mr Cess
JoeCoxson 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Awesome start to the day. Gear was spaced by never too run out on the first pitch, and top pitch is just spectacular once you commit.

with Stuart Cossey
Stu.Cossey 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Robbie
Hidden 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
huwbrace 17/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Tiff Vaggas 17/Jun/15 2nd
afrosam 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
benjaminloveday 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/15 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Jun/15 AltLd
CraigOsborne ?/Jun/15 Lead dog

Ran first two piches together clean onsight then fell off the roof at the top of the final pitch. Pulled on and got it second time after finding the jug at the top of the flake

Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd
Dave Rumney 26/May/15 AltLd O/S

6'5" is not a good height for the top pitch finish.

with Tanya Milner
Rachel S 25/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Cal
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
KimberlyJarrad 23/May/15 2nd O/S

Only climbed pitch one, finished up Doorpost. Fell off start.

Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Tim_C7 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, lovely route and two contrasting cruxes.

with Henry G
Billg 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Graham Westbrook 22/May/15 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Good climb, crack a little bit wet on the 1st pitch due to mist and clag!

Hidden 22/May/15 2nd dog
jimmatthews 22/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch one, 5b.

Hidden 21/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd O/S
waydan 16/May/15 AltLd

Fantastic climb

stephen ashworth 16/May/15 Lead

P1 only.

with Alex cox
Mike_Hayes 16/May/15 Lead
with dan parkes
Hidden 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
snook 16/May/15 AltLd dnf

Lead P2 and P3 but had to exit out left from the roof as had unbeknowlingly put cam where you need to put you hand for the first move. will not do this next time haha

climbEdclimb 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
dbrooks 10/May/15 AltLd O/S

p1 + p3, first pitch was pretty sodden which made it pretty scary... wild moves at the top of the final pitch, pretty intimidating

with gidmord
gidmord 10/May/15 AltLd

Fell off top pitch. Lead second pitch

with dbrooks
fulton333 07/May/15 Lead

Wet crux made it tricky

Si ?/May/15 Lead dog

Fell off P1. Thought was thin and nails!

with Becs
Hidden 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Katsmiff 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Martin lead and ran the first 2 pitches into one. I lead the last pitch. The guide book said finish on some spectacular moves. My first E1 lead, wasn't feeling very spectacular but the overhang was very manageable in the end :)

Martin Bagshaw 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Catherine's first e1

Hidden ??/2015 -
clairejane ??/2015 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, First route on Cornish Granite... Felt ever so slightly desperate and ... greasy... Party on Doorpost directed me on to that rather than climb other their ropes to the belay, then complained so I climbed and down climbed that...Will lead second pitch thank god as I'd have been terrified.

with will
Hidden ??/2015 -
Mine2209 ??/2015 AltLd
with Mick hunter
beni ??/2015 Lead
ferdia 29/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Andy Moles 29/Nov/14 2nd

Second pitch only.

with Ferdia
Spearos 06/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
with Riggo
eel 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Howard
cem 31/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Led p1

petegruf 31/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead rpt
david morse 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch

with chris todd
Tom Seccombe 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Louise Street
Hidden 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
markalmack 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with gwen, james marjot
mdjb 22/Jul/14 -
Ewan Russell 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

1st and 2nd

with Tom Nichols
Hidden 12/Jul/14 AltLd
peter.ravenscroft27 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Wow! what a climb.

Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead
oddtoast 06/Jul/14 2nd dog

Just p1, fell in middle, tricky balancing moves on slippy feet with thin hands.

with Gav
bencole ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

P1 only, had nobody willing to second me on this.

with Dad
dynodean 24/Jun/14 2nd dog

Started on HVS variation of Little Brown Jug then ended on this. Fell off several times trying to get past the roofs.

with Alan
AndrewP 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead it all, running P1 and 2 together. P1 is hard with tricky moves on marginal holds and shiny smears. The roof at the top is brilliant fun - no footholds but there's a crucial jug up high in the crack if you feel around for it.

with Steve Kedward
SteveK 22/Jun/14 2nd dog

Fell off the last pitch while traversing under the roof. Got the jug on 2nd attempt which was Jugulicious :)

kyaizawa 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Thought it was pretty straightforward and true at the grade - good holds linking good moves, between decent rests and gear.

Emma Reynolds 21/Jun/14 2nd

A lot of effort required for final overhang, but with nice rest.

Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Sdentzel 21/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Did it in 2 pitches. I lead first pitch: fun climbing, tricky small gear, exciting! I had a fall near the end of the tricky section... don't forget to remember where the feet are :) A really great varied climb, starts out with a little tricky slab section then really easy climbing then a interesting overhung crack up top to finish up. ***** A must do!

with Ian
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
hotfeet 14/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Some very thin holds on the first pitch. The final moves of the final pitch are a real contrast. Two very contrasting pitches.

danboast 13/Jun/14 Lead rpt
jon_ridley 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

the crack was a bit wet!

Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
strudles 03/May/14 Lead O/S
kennythescot 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/14 AltLd
ashtond6 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Felt 5c due to polish, soft E2?

Nevil 18/Apr/14 Lead

1st pitch only

with Vince
Vincej 18/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead
JoeE ?/Mar/14 2nd
with Irish Joe
jcw ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Tim
nickstephens 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
gg4419 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
tim.fairhall 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

As 2 pitches; led P2

with Richard
Ed Babs 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

P1 + 2

with AlexD
AlexD 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Bristoldave 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Top pitch def worthwhile

with justin
chris j 31/Aug/13 Lead

Lead top corner/overhang pitch.

with Nick Saunders
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Julesthe1st 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I love climbs that have contrasting pitches. This is one

with Mike
dready 19/Aug/13 2nd

part 1 only its quite balancey

Justin T 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nancy
NancyJones 03/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
net 03/Jul/13 2nd
with George
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Had a 'mare on a straightforward section of P1, going about it all the wrong way to get around a reachy hold. Cruised the crux of P1, and found p3 (our p2) good fun and fine once the psych was built (on second however :)). You just need belief that the holds are there (particularlly the top of the flake in the crack).

AJM 27/Jun/13 2nd rpt

P1. Finished up doorpost.

with Sophie Wynne-Jones
tim.fairhall 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Hui
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Louise Hall 01/Jun/13 2nd dog

Enjoyed P1+2, had a right mare on P3, mostly because I did not know this climb ended with massive overhangs!

drysori 13/May/13 AltLd
with Viktor
Pieterjan De Roo 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis ?/May/13 AltLd
with BMC international meet
chrisallan 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Dilwat 12/Apr/13 Lead O/S

P2 only as p1 wet

with dready
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
adie84 ??/2013 -
Stroppy 27/Oct/12 Lead dog

Slipped and fell on a soaking wet P1, got back up and did it (this time with an extra number 1 nut, needs at least 3). Also led P3 which was fantastic, big juggy moves, swinging around on granite overhangs.

with Andy Waterfield
andrew549 27/Oct/12 2nd
El3ctroFuzz 29/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
with Paul Roberts
s.c.white 08/Sep/12 -
stuart34 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Bex_M 19/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Duncan Dunbar
Paul_southgate68 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant sequence at the start, felt hard. Another top route ***

Trippinjester 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 26/Jul/12 2nd O/S
mike lawrence? 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Colin lead with the first pitch with just the one ground sweeping fall

with Colin
Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/12 Lead
jonleighton 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent varied climbing. Quite a battle at the roof!

Alor_lab 23/Jun/12 2nd dog

Fell once on the first pitch. Great lead by Jon

with Jon L
ferdia 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

First 2 pitches only (run together), before seeking out Litte Brown Jug to escape the belay ledge crowds

with Rozzy
jimmyrua 03/Jun/12 AltLd
jon_gill1 03/Jun/12 AltLd dog

had to rest under the roof!

with mike walton
pete87abs 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with james
burto 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
tom.e 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Alan
Reaver2k 08/Apr/12 AltLd
with tom.e
stevepotter 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Dave P
3 Names 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Sumee lead pitch 2, me pitch 1

dprctr 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Lovely sunny day. Lead pitch 1 and 2 combined and pitch 3 after. 1st one was wet with some interesting delicate movement. But all the fun is in the top roof. Banged my helmet a few times trying to get involved but once up all the holds are great.

with Steven ODL
RichardN 06/Apr/12 2nd dog
Alan100 06/Apr/12 AltLd

Great route with very different styles at the start and finish! First pitch didn't feel a thin as expected - kept finding decent foot/hand placements just as they were needed. Very satisfying. Skipped the first belay and ran the first pitches together - no reason not to with doubles. Last pitch was awkward jammed up against the roof - reckon it's easier for shorties!

Dave89 06/Apr/12 AltLd dog

Tried to lead 2nd pitch Hid in corner abbed down Al Led and 2nded through. Will be back with brave pills.

with RichardN, Fat Al
Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd
greenclimb 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
jess ?/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with martin
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 AltLd
with Rick Graham
francois 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Solid lead by Chris on P1 who found some crucial micronut placements. Led P2 and P3. The crux on P3 was perplexing rather than burly.

with Chris
BelayBunney 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Really enjoyable climb - I led first pitch: delicate and a bit thin on protection (take your micros - peanuts fit well!) Francois led last pitch (and intermediate linking pitch) - the roof is quite a tricky and burly move and not a comfortable place to be hanging around!

Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Ed morris 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Proper E1.Led both crux pitches.

with ewan
HarryB 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Al
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 16/Mar/12 AltLd dog

lead easy ungraded linking pitch, very spectacular watching alex cut lose from second belay :) bounced a little on the rope on brutish finish

arandall 16/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I did pitch 1 and 3. Not completely onsight as I seconded the first pitch a couple of years ago but don't remember any of it. 1st pitch was brilliant, protection felt ok as long as you pretend the Imps are indestructible Which loony graded the last pitch as 5a?! I had to cut loose to get past it. 3 star route :)

Sophie Nunn 03/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
JonBrown 03/Mar/12 AltLd RP

Not in the bst style, but P1 was polished on the footholds, and E1 5b on mostly micros!??! The pitches contrasted so much in style, you needed to have wits about you. Sophie was fearless (atleast from the belay) for running P2 & P3 together, blasting through the two thuggy roofs! I finished the route in the dark

Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Dale ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

After doing bow wall jumped on this. I lead first pitch whats going on? Why is this route so slick. Very technicle climbing I slipped and nearly fell at one point due to polished footholds and a small greasy hand hold but managed to hold on. Tim had top pitch 5a what a joke 5b, but amzing climbing going right threw that huge overhang. 3 stars all the way on par with bow wall

with Tim
domskezz 22/Sep/11 Lead

Thought i'd got my head round the climbing down in Cornwall after flying up a few routes but this was a real struggle. I found the first pitch quite polished and really hard as a result. Third pitch was fine until the brutal ending, just managed it after a few heart fluttering retreats.

with Jamma
Cragrat Rich 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led throughout in one pitch. Surprisingly easy lower section and a thuggishly brutal ending!

Hidden 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 21/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Rik
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd
andysroom 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Lizzie
Stone Muppet 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S

P1 into Doorpost

with ah
Jack_F 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
adam cooper*super* 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

felt 5b, quality first pitch.

Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
tatz45 ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch.

Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

John Tanner 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

First pitch is great. Paddy finished up Doorpost in one long pitch, which was also great

mrstarwarsman 07/Jul/11 AltLd
CRiddiford 23/Jun/11 AltLd

mike p1, me p2

with Mike
Hidden 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
danboast 14/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Several large falls at the first pitch's crux finally persuaded me that I'm not quite ready for E1s yet.

JamPlastick 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lead First

Brannock 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Mega route, had a completely awesome nightmare on it, got lost on the first pitch pendlumed off a brass offset to get back on route, took two falls on the roof of the 3rd pitch ripping load of skin off my finger, topped out with blood stains everywhere and a thumping head ache from dehydration, amazing experience.

redshapedfriday 11/Jun/11 2nd β

excellent route, polished in places but good gear all the way

with nick stevens
nickstephens 11/Jun/11 Lead dog

Spent a little longer on the bottom putting quite a bit of gear in and then ended up sitting on the ropes after trying the top in a variety of ways. Most annoying bit is that I ended up doing the route exactely as intially attempted after missing the next hand hold on first atttempt.

with Graham Hadaway
Alexstone 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Busy day. Zappa breezed P1. Hour queuing at the belay was time to enough settle nerves for leading P2

with zappa lymn
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mrrjmcneil ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Jason Ivor
hamish2016 ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Oli
gowla 31/May/11 AltLd O/S
with will kumar
manwithacam 29/May/11 AltLd

couldnt do top pitch clean. Thuggy and nothing thin about it! Bottom pitch nice and technical.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 29/May/11 AltLd dog

I did the last pitch. Damn that roof was tricky. Couldn't work the move out and had to take a rest.

philhilo 28/May/11 AltLd O/S

It was wet - and bl**dy hard!Thought the crux was dry low down. Alas the crux was the crack, and the smears and handholds were wet making it all very sketchy. 1st pitch good gear but felt like E2 5c. Fab clean second by Helen. Misha took top pitch which was equally wet and challenging going around the roof.

Misha 28/May/11 AltLd

Phil did very well to lead a very damp P1. Was ok seconding but some tricky moves due to the conditions. I led P2 and P3 together. The offwidth traverse was very awkward (a head jam helped) but fun in a way. It was also slightly damp to add to the challenge.

with Helen, Phil
Master Chief 25/May/11 AltLd rpt

Lead pitch 1 and 3! awesome route but top pitch isnt 5a!

with Jeremy
masa-alpin 30/Apr/11 2nd β

We climbed The Chicken Run for the P1. Doug lead it (P2 and P3). Excellent top pitch.

with Jo B, Doug S
drcorbasisgod 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
cem 30/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

Led p1

Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead dnf
liamoloughlin 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
mtempest 24/Apr/11 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 24/Apr/11 AltLd

P1 was the hardest pitch climbed all week (including the crux of Suicide Wall). Felt like there were a couple of 5b moves lower down and then a 5c crux where I was convinced my feet would slip but in fact held. A great lead by Mike. P2 was amazing and thoroughly worthwhile. Had to race at the start to get established ahead of a bemused lady climbing Doorway. Good rest and protection before the lower overlap and then similar before committing to the final moves. 5a for P2 seems reasonable - but then I am used to climbing Peak grit.

Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Jez 22/Apr/11 AltLd β

Nice repeat - Lead 1st pitch

with NJSharp
Hidden 21/Apr/11 AltLd
mark20 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1+2

jakenichol 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch....sandbag. brilliant

Hidden 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
jeffb 18/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Fell off near the top of P1 on the undercut hold...was psyched and couldn't suss the next move....One to return to.

with Calder
misterb 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S

wet but very good climbing

with wain
Master Chief 13/Mar/11 AltLd dog

Went up with wrong hand on last move of the climb and had to rest on rope before getting it second time!! Excellent climb though!

Spearos 13/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead p1+p3. p1 technical and exposed, glad I borrowed some of Tom's peanuts. p3 easy until a good but cramped rest while working out thuggy final moves. good route.

Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
monsteratt 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Andy did P1 and P2 together. I did p3. P1 was QI a bit harder than expected from the ground. Interesting smear mvong up to undercut move quite glad I wasn't leading. P3 was very exciting. Had some good rests on the convenient flake under the final roof. Good end to the day.

Andrew Abraham 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
James Mitchelmore 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd
El3ctroFuzz 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p3. Tim Led p2. Very Enjoyable climbing, possibly a little bit of a Hard E1, but not harder than 5b. Its a shame to see that most people have missed out the last pitch. Which is truely awesome, and easy if u know what to do!

with Sparkles.
tim exley 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with tom bunn
Hidden 07/Sep/10 AltLd dog
Hidden 07/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Philippa Arding 01/Sep/10 2nd
with helen pitt
hepitt ?/Sep/10 Lead
with Phillipa Arding
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dog
Jim Slater 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Climbed P1 only

Speeddemonsi 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jak.kelly 15/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

Complete failure

Dave Lacey 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Si dH 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led 1st pitch (and second run in to it), Tom led top pitch.

with Tom Lambert, Neil Furniss
Hidden 12/Aug/10 2nd O/S
brockers 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/10 2nd
tebs 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Rip-roaring good stuff. 1st pitch into the last 2 pitches (linked) of Doorpost. Thin Wall Spesh was a ruddy good pitch. Scary undercut move.

with Tim
HimTiggins 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Finished up pitched 2 & 3 of doorpost.

with Bart
metal arms 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

lukea 09/Jul/10 Lead β
with Al
melonmike 16/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
AJM 30/May/10 Lead O/S

P1 only - finished up Doorpost to give what was essentially "Doorpost direct". An excellent pitch which I'd wanted to do for ages.

Harald 12/May/10 Lead O/S
verticon 12/May/10 Lead O/S
with Craig Harwood
Hidden 11/May/10 AltLd
Different Steve 10/May/10 AltLd rpt

Led upper roof section - hideous!

with Mick Walsh
simonp ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Lucy Ham
benkelsey 15/Apr/10 2nd O/S
remus 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S

p1 only, very nice if a little damp. Mop finished up doorpost.

raku 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S

was wet and horible, a true epic! only 1st pitch, finiched by doorway?

ollie1 09/Apr/10 AltLd
Dan_Carroll 09/Apr/10 Lead rpt
phil64 ?/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
JerryD ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
nickstephens 18/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Ran out of time so traversed out towards "Andrew" after finishing the first pitch. Fantastic pitch though and I will defintely go back and finish the route in the near future.

joese7en 17/Oct/09 AltLd rpt

very worthwhile, top pitch is awkward

Don Jebus 17/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
chris j 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Doug
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead
joese7en 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
shane54 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
chris sm 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
d_meacher 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
tweedcore 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/09 2nd O/S
Chad123 03/May/09 AltLd O/S

Fun route, delicate first pitch and burly second (never 5a!) Crowds of people everywhere....

with Sam
Ben Harper 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Dave Moir and Steven Mayor
dmoir 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Harper and Mayer
JackMountains 02/May/09 AltLd dog

wet crux where i fell on 1st pitch

Ben Snook 02/May/09 AltLd
riddle 10/Apr/09 AltLd dnf

Didnt read the guide book closely enough and ended up on Bow Wall escaping along the traverse.

cem 10/Apr/09 AltLd rpt

Led final pitch

mikeyjbs 09/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Anna Horrox 01/Aug/08 2nd

led pitch 2, pitch 3 not clean

clive-greenwood 01/Aug/08 Lead dog

Fell on the last moves on the top pitch. Used gear to reach the finishing holds. Blast!

with Anna
Matt Bennett 22/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
cornishben 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Led the first pitch

with barnaby carver
lukehodson 12/Jun/08 2nd O/S

lovely first pitch, sandbag top pitch. surely this route is E2?

with Harry Allan
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
jfreeman 09/Jun/08 2nd
with Simon and Nick
Hidden 09/Jun/08 2nd
bfreeman 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Lea
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead β
Popkids 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S

This was a fantasic route.Climbed as 1st pitch of Doorpost.

with Kafoozalem
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Subwaycups ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/08 Lead O/S
adrianj 06/May/08 2nd
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Rowansb ?/Jul/07 Lead rpt
drysori 08/Jun/07 AltLd

Led first pitch. First Cornish E1.

Hidden 08/Jun/07 AltLd
jfreeman ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Rigler
Sidekick ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 29/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Kine D
Dan_Carroll 12/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Top pitch more like 5b I think.

with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 12/Apr/07 2nd dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Bob Peters ??/2007 2nd
whispering nic 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with The Wife
Hidden 07/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo 12/Jun/06 Lead
with Jason Lee
hal ?/Jun/06 Lead
with Virgil Scott
reg_measures 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
with timmy elson
Hidden 05/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
wojt ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/05 Lead
lukea 15/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 02/Apr/05 AltLd rpt
cem 26/Mar/05 AltLd rpt

Led p1

Lev 06/Feb/05 Lead O/S

Did the Chicken Run variation, the unprotected run out looked more appealing than the dripping wet finger crack

with Andrew Bitmead
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
feilx ??/2005 -
with keith
skygodley 25/Jun/04 Lead O/S
leadmat ?/May/04 Lead O/S

First pitch tricky. Second pitch great move around roof.

with Murray Hodgson
lukea 29/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 16/Jun/03 2nd
EllieWoods 23/Apr/03 2nd O/S
with Alex
Hidden 20/Apr/03 Lead dnf
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Dan
William Robertson ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Emily
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Rob Pitt ??/2003 -
arkinzee ??/2003 Lead
Samuel P 05/Oct/02 2nd
with Luke
Hidden 12/Aug/02 2nd
shoulders 04/Aug/02 Lead
peterbeaumont ?/Jul/02 Lead
cem 29/Mar/02 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Rob Smithies
Hidden 01/Aug/01 Lead
pezzerrr 28/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd
Ian Jones ?/Sep/00 Lead rpt

Did pitch one about 1978 with Dave Greenald.

with Matt York
Hidden ?/Sep/00 AltLd
Rob Oram 28/Aug/00 2nd O/S

A really nice climb with contrasting pitches. The first was really techincal and the second nice and easy up to a thuggy roof!

with OS
stuart100 18/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with Ian Brown
jfletcher 28/Jun/00 Lead
timreynolds 29/Apr/00 Lead dnf

Crux was wet, so traversed onto Doorpost

nickdonohue 09/Apr/00 AltLd
with Joe Brown
goi.ashmore 10/Mar/00 Lead O/S

Led Pitch 2

with Roy Thomas
Hidden ?/Jan/00 -
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead rpt

Very good.

with Gary Wickham
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
NickP ??/2000 -
VPJB ??/2000 -
plain kitten ??/2000 AltLd
Roget 17/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with jim
goi.ashmore 02/Aug/99 Lead O/S

Pitch 1

with Roy Thomas
duncan ?/Apr/99 AltLd rpt
PaulTanton 10/Aug/98 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Mar/98 AltLd
with Andy MacNae
Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd
with Moggs
Just Another Dave ??/1998 AltLd
with Ben Hope, Jo Bertalot, Laura
duncan 19/Apr/97 Lead rpt
Greg Cunningham ?/Mar/97 AltLd
with andy mcarthy
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 -
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
lost.arrow 11/May/96 AltLd
with Iain Kerr
frost ?/May/95 -
GAtkins 19/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/95 AltLd
Mark Kemball 25/Jun/94 Lead
with Matt Vigg
Hidden 19/Jun/94 2nd O/S
djones66 ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S

Did as two good pitches (the 'middle pitch' can sensibly be done with Pitch 1). P1 hardest moves and a bit bold, but top pitch great fun (when you've worked out how to it) and well safe. Recommended.

with Mark Jones
uphillnow ?/Aug/93 Lead

hot day,sweaty

with Margaret Smith
steve taylor ?/Mar/92 AltLd
with mike robertson
Hidden 17/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/91 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/90 AltLd
NickJH ?/Aug/90 2nd

pitch 1 only

TonyF ?/May/90 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1990 -

Much less traumatic than The Chicken Run.

with Welsh Mike from the wall
Mike Owen 13/Aug/89 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Mike Owen 09/Aug/88 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
scree ?/May/88 -
with Dave H
Eduardo Martinez 20/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 05/Oct/85 Lead
rogerskews 05/Oct/85 -
Steve Lewis 09/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
with Lyndsey
charlesmfrench 28/Jul/85 Lead O/S
RichardMc 08/Apr/85 2nd
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
keefe 24/Aug/84 -
Hidden 02/Aug/84 AltLd
Campbell42 ?/Aug/84 AltLd O/S
with Eric Marsden
steveboote ??/1983 -
with Rona Owen
Roy Stuart ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Billy Bones
The Reaper 28/Aug/81 AltLd
Hammy 11/Aug/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
DanW ??/1981 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/80 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with Others, FMC
duncan ?/Aug/79 Lead O/S
with Simon Reed
Mike Owen 29/Jul/79 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
Simon cook ??/1978 -
D Tempest ?/Jan/76 AltLd
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
Martin Bennett 08/Aug/73 -
with RA
Dave Musgrove ?/Sep/69 AltLd
with Andy Wild, Dennis Gray
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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