Climbing banned in France

Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, France has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.

FFME link with more info

220m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II,185m. One of the most popular routes in this area when in condition, being first on the route on any given day is often dependent on who can get down the Midi arête and ski over to the route fastest! It is usually quieter midweek and much of the climbing is mixed, so the risk of falling ice isn't quite as high as on a pure ice route. The quality of the pitches make it worth putting up with some company.
1) 3, 50m. Climb the snowfield easily and go up a short icy step (which may not exist in snowy conditions) to belay on the left.
2) 3+, 40m. Follow the line of least resistance through some enjoyable, steady mixed climbing and belay on a block in the middle of the gully, beneath where it splits in two.
3) 4+, 50m. Take the left-hand line which is usually ice for the first half and mixed above. Belay on the left below a snow slope.
4) 4+, 25m. Climb the snow slope for 15m to a small, innocuous looking step which proves to be trickier than it looks. Having surmounted it with as much style as you can manage, carry on up another snow slope for 5m to a belay tucked away in a little cave on the left.
5) 5, 20m. It is possible to go right up a steep chimney (40m of 5b rock climbing/M5+ climbing to a block belay) but the traditional, and better, finish is to go straight up the steep cracks above and left of the belay. There is plenty of protection and the tough climbing is short lived but enjoyable. Above the cracks, continue up snow for a few metres and climb a final 3m step to reach a rock ridge. A bolted belay is on the right, 5m up from where you join the ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Mixed route to the left of the Cecchinel-Jager. 4/5 pitches of ice and mixed. The route seems to be in condition more often than other comparable lines on the face.

M Pelissier

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Misha 18 Feb Show βeta
βeta: There are bolt belays but the pitches aren’t as described above. It’s over 60m from the schrund to the first bolted belay but there is tat on small spikes on the right just before the first mixed step. After that there’s a bolt belay on the left, then tat round a large spike (optional belay), then another bolt belay on the left. This is before the innocuous step described above. There is then a peg belay half way up the snow slope (optional belay) and a bolt belay on the left below the headwall. There is another bolt belay on the traditional finish, just before the crux (optional as 60m ropes will reach the top of the route but advisable for the abseils to reduce the risk of a jammed rope). Finally a bolt belay at the top of the route. All the bolt belays are within 60m of each other so the optional belays are just that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are bolt belays but the pitches aren’t as described above. It’s over 60m from the schrund to the first bolted belay but there is tat on small spikes on the right just before the first mixed step. After that there’s a bolt belay on the left, then tat round a large spike (optional belay), then another bolt belay on the left. This is before the innocuous step described above. There is then a peg belay half way up the snow slope (optional belay) and a bolt belay on the left below the headwall. There is another bolt belay on the traditional finish, just before the crux (optional as 60m ropes will reach the top of the route but advisable for the abseils to reduce the risk of a jammed rope). Finally a bolt belay at the top of the route. All the bolt belays are within 60m of each other so the optional belays are just that.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Penvers 14 Mar AltLd O/S
with Rob Brown
with Rob Brown
Hidden 13 Mar AltLd dnf
Remyveness 11 Mar Lead O/S Right hand finish of the top pitch is in pretty bad nick but otherwise generally good ice throughout
with Jack93
Right hand finish of the top pitch is in pretty bad nick but otherwise generally good ice throughout
with Jack93
Blackcountrybill 20 Feb 2nd O/S
Misha 18 Feb AltLd O/S Nice acclimatisation route. Geared up in the sun, climbed quickly, pleasant ski down the VB and no rush for the train. Winter alpinism can be quite pleasant! First team on the route, ahead of a send train of three other parties. The comment above that it’s about getting down to the route first is spot on! I moved together to the second bolted belay, which I think is half way up P3 as described above. Dave moves together from there to the top. Would have made more sense for me to move together to the third bolted belay, from where you can lead in one 55m pitch to the top, but only had one minitrax. 2h 10min to the top. Tried out abseiling with a pull cord. Fumbled a bit to start with but got it dialled by the end. 5 abseils. Best to use the optional belay below the crux but there was a guided party of three on it so carried on down. Got the rope jammed as a result but managed to pull it free. Delayed lift so 9.20 Midi, 10.00 attack, 12.10 top (didn’t bother going to the summit), 13.35 down (slow due to the initial faff), an hour to ski down to Montenvers at a fairly chilled pace - nice to do it in daylight for a change! Not enough snow to ski down to town.
with davkeo
Nice acclimatisation route. Geared up in the sun, climbed quickly, pleasant ski down the VB and no rush for the train. Winter alpinism can be quite pleasant! First team on the route, ahead of a send train of three other parties. The comment above that it’s about getting down to the route first is spot on! I moved together to the second bolted belay, which I think is half way up P3 as described above. Dave moves together from there to the top. Would have made more sense for me to move together to the third bolted belay, from where you can lead in one 55m pitch to the top, but only had one minitrax. 2h 10min to the top. Tried out abseiling with a pull cord. Fumbled a bit to start with but got it dialled by the end. 5 abseils. Best to use the optional belay below the crux but there was a guided party of three on it so carried on down. Got the rope jammed as a result but managed to pull it free. Delayed lift so 9.20 Midi, 10.00 attack, 12.10 top (didn’t bother going to the summit), 13.35 down (slow due to the initial faff), an hour to ski down to Montenvers at a fairly chilled pace - nice to do it in daylight for a change! Not enough snow to ski down to town.
with davkeo
davkeo 18 Feb AltLd O/S Misha linked p1&2 with some simul climbing. I did the same for p3,4&5. Really nice climb. First on the route, first time climbing in ski boots, first time using a single/tag line rope system & mostly pleasingly, first time skiing the VB without falling over. Super day. Just over 2hrs for the climbing.
with Misha
Misha linked p1&2 with some simul climbing. I did the same for p3,4&5. Really nice climb. First on the route, first time climbing in ski boots, first time using a single/tag line rope system & mostly pleasingly, first time skiing the VB without falling over. Super day. Just over 2hrs for the climbing.
with Misha
emilbergsjo 15 Feb -
lukegorman 25 Jan AltLd O/S dope. lead alternate pitches inc crux last pitch.
dope. lead alternate pitches inc crux last pitch.
JoeCoxson 25 Jan AltLd O/S Best way to spend a birthday. Led P2+4, both beautiful sections of ice and mixed. Luke did an excellent job on the top pitch. 3hr 50 on route, down in an hour in 4 abseils, down the VB for the first time, and on to the track all the way down to Cham. And then there were beers...
Best way to spend a birthday. Led P2+4, both beautiful sections of ice and mixed. Luke did an excellent job on the top pitch. 3hr 50 on route, down in an hour in 4 abseils, down the VB for the first time, and on to the track all the way down to Cham. And then there were beers...
Chuck 17 Jan AltLd
with Benoît Remillieux
with Benoît Remillieux
QuentinSu 12 Jan AltLd O/S
martha1121 12 Jan 2nd O/S
Hidden 7 Jan Lead O/S
TheFasting 17 Apr, 2019 2nd β Very dry. Not too bad technically, the step before the 4th belay was tricky. Did the 5b/5c righthand finish which had a very tricky traverse move into the chimney. Need to come back to lead it, really nice route.
Very dry. Not too bad technically, the step before the 4th belay was tricky. Did the 5b/5c righthand finish which had a very tricky traverse move into the chimney. Need to come back to lead it, really nice route.
Dougie 17 Apr, 2019 2nd Chere Couloir had aparty on it so skied down to Pelissier instead. Great route, excellent intro to Mixed climbing. Skipped the last pitch to get back for dinner in the Cosmiques Hut.
with Andy L
Chere Couloir had aparty on it so skied down to Pelissier instead. Great route, excellent intro to Mixed climbing. Skipped the last pitch to get back for dinner in the Cosmiques Hut.
with Andy L
Hidden 16 Apr, 2019 AltLd O/S
George.D 16 Feb, 2019 2nd Ski in/out
Ski in/out
Kike Kikon 9 May, 2018 AltLd First two pitches were wet loose snow and rocks. Dangerous for the belayer. Upper pitches totally dry so was basically drytooling at about D5 (a bit physical, bomber placements for gear and picks). Topped out pointe Lachenal, which is not adviced in high temps due to very loose snow and rock (Flo put some miles on the counter and our spontaneous partner, Collin, was hit by a stone on his quad and elbow) Managed to top out and reached A.du Midi. after 6.30pm. Luckily there were engineers doing maintenance so got a lift down to Cham.. for free! Great 1.5 pitches of drytooling, the rest is crap in warm conditions.
with flo1
First two pitches were wet loose snow and rocks. Dangerous for the belayer. Upper pitches totally dry so was basically drytooling at about D5 (a bit physical, bomber placements for gear and picks). Topped out pointe Lachenal, which is not adviced in high temps due to very loose snow and rock (Flo put some miles on the counter and our spontaneous partner, Collin, was hit by a stone on his quad and elbow) Managed to top out and reached A.du Midi. after 6.30pm. Luckily there were engineers doing maintenance so got a lift down to Cham.. for free! Great 1.5 pitches of drytooling, the rest is crap in warm conditions.
with flo1
davidswannn 7 May, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ?Apr, 2018 -
Ross Davidson 25 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
Txitxar 18 May, 2017 Lead
Shea 12 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S First mixed climb, raced up the first 3 pitches in a 1-er, Amazing experience!
with Sean Martin, freja
First mixed climb, raced up the first 3 pitches in a 1-er, Amazing experience!
with Sean Martin, freja
Ewan Russell 16 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Faye Manners
with Faye Manners
jon@asgardbeyond.is 13 Mar, 2017 Lead
with Freskur
with Freskur
Hidden 26 Feb, 2017 AltLd
janegallwey 25 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Didn't lead any of the harder bits.
Didn't lead any of the harder bits.
Hidden 14 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
SeánM ?Feb, 2017 AltLd
adie84 ??, 2017 -
7toes 21 Apr, 2016 2nd
with John
with John
Hidden 9 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
Chris81 28 Mar, 2016 2nd I seconded most of the pitches with a guide leading (Mark Chadwick). I lead the snow slope 4th pitch, ironically the most run out of all the pitches.
I seconded most of the pitches with a guide leading (Mark Chadwick). I lead the snow slope 4th pitch, ironically the most run out of all the pitches.
Rob Royle 28 Jan, 2016 2nd
with Mountain Guide
with Mountain Guide
Matt Groom 24 Jan, 2016 AltLd
DaveThexton 24 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Matt Groom
with Matt Groom
Hidden ??, 2016 -
James Thacker ??, 2016 -
Hidden 26 Oct, 2015 AltLd
alexm198 26 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Great conditions. In four 60m pitches. Led odds. Super icy apart from the top pitch which was pretty much dry and featured some sweet M5 moves off bomber hooks.
Great conditions. In four 60m pitches. Led odds. Super icy apart from the top pitch which was pretty much dry and featured some sweet M5 moves off bomber hooks.
James W 20 Apr, 2015 2nd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
nickwhimster 12 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
monsteratt 12 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Some very enjoyable pitches and stunning weather
with Nick Whimster
Some very enjoyable pitches and stunning weather
with Nick Whimster
Hidden 20 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Feb, 2015 AltLd
niallsash 14 Jan, 2015 -
DigitalSteak 8 Jan, 2015 AltLd
with Pat, Graeme Barr
with Pat, Graeme Barr
Graeme Barr 8 Jan, 2015 AltLd P1 & 4
with Pat, DigitalSteak
P1 & 4
with Pat, DigitalSteak
Grant Fulton ?May, 2014 Lead
with Gumery
with Gumery
Gumery ?May, 2014 2nd
Hidden 12 Apr, 2014 -
Steve Wakeford 7 Apr, 2014 Lead Pretty spare compared to grade and description. Didn't summit, lack of time. Intend to!
with Anna Martin
Pretty spare compared to grade and description. Didn't summit, lack of time. Intend to!
with Anna Martin
darcan 2 Apr, 2014 AltLd
with vegarye
with vegarye
Hidden 25 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
chapmand 25 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 20 Feb, 2014 AltLd dnf
Hidden 20 Feb, 2014 AltLd dnf
Hidden 22 Jan, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 2 Apr, 2013 AltLd dnf
Tommy Harris 2 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 2 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 2 Apr, 2013 AltLd dnf Spent nearly an hour digging a trench to the base of the route to allow 4 teams to run past us and enjoy the route in a no gear, no belays, overlapping ropes sort of way. Abandoned ship prior to getting fully engaged in violence or a serious clusterfuck.
Spent nearly an hour digging a trench to the base of the route to allow 4 teams to run past us and enjoy the route in a no gear, no belays, overlapping ropes sort of way. Abandoned ship prior to getting fully engaged in violence or a serious clusterfuck.
Hidden 22 Feb, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jan, 2013 AltLd dnf
Dunx 29 Mar, 2012 AltLd
SteveHolmes 29 Mar, 2012 AltLd
with Dunx
with Dunx
BorisVBlade 28 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Sam Thompson
with Sam Thompson
msjhes2 9 Mar, 2012 AltLd
smithaldo 9 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with msjhes2, Clegg
with msjhes2, Clegg
Ross Barnes 2 Mar, 2012 AltLd
Alasdair Fulton 2 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
mcaterina ?Jan, 2012 2nd
Ben Wolstenholme 3 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with JR
with JR
Hidden 3 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2011 2nd
stuart34 17 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S Wicked!
with Amos Swanson
Wicked!
with Amos Swanson
twoplates 8 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Josh
with Josh
Morgan Woods 24 Jan, 2011 2nd O/S Good day out. Ski in from midi and back down VB. Kept going to top and easy walk back down to skis.
with Kenton
Good day out. Ski in from midi and back down VB. Kept going to top and easy walk back down to skis.
with Kenton
Wanaski 23 Jan, 2011 -
with Rick
with Rick
Charlie Evans 10 Apr, 2010 2nd β
with Unai
with Unai
industrialiceman 26 Jan, 2010 2nd
thebigeasy ??, 2010 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Apr, 2009 Lead
with Gerry Arcari
with Gerry Arcari
Hidden ?Apr, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 3 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
James Gordon ?Jan, 2009 -
nickdonohue ?Oct, 2008 AltLd Fantastic route - neat ice climbing up a kind of couloir / ramp. Then some some proper HVS type rock climbing at the top to exit.
with Jeff Ingman
Fantastic route - neat ice climbing up a kind of couloir / ramp. Then some some proper HVS type rock climbing at the top to exit.
with Jeff Ingman
Hidden ?Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S
zero six ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 16 Apr, 2007 -
GaryK ?Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S Rapped the route from the top of the last pitch, which was a difficult diagonal abseil, with a hard pull through. The rest of the abseils were OK.
with Genki Narumi
Rapped the route from the top of the last pitch, which was a difficult diagonal abseil, with a hard pull through. The rest of the abseils were OK.
with Genki Narumi
24 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set