220m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II,185m. One of the most popular routes in this area when in condition, being first on the route on any given day is often dependent on who can get down the Midi arête and ski over to the route fastest! It is usually quieter midweek and much of the climbing is mixed, so the risk of falling ice isn't quite as high as on a pure ice route. The quality of the pitches make it worth putting up with some company.
1) 3, 50m. Climb the snowfield easily and go up a short icy step (which may not exist in snowy conditions) to belay on the left.
2) 3+, 40m. Follow the line of least resistance through some enjoyable, steady mixed climbing and belay on a block in the middle of the gully, beneath where it splits in two.
3) 4+, 50m. Take the left-hand line which is usually ice for the first half and mixed above. Belay on the left below a snow slope.
4) 4+, 25m. Climb the snow slope for 15m to a small, innocuous looking step which proves to be trickier than it looks. Having surmounted it with as much style as you can manage, carry on up another snow slope for 5m to a belay tucked away in a little cave on the left.
5) 5, 20m. It is possible to go right up a steep chimney (40m of 5b rock climbing/M5+ climbing to a block belay) but the traditional, and better, finish is to go straight up the steep cracks above and left of the belay. There is plenty of protection and the tough climbing is short lived but enjoyable. Above the cracks, continue up snow for a few metres and climb a final 3m step to reach a rock ridge. A bolted belay is on the right, 5m up from where you join the ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Mixed route to the left of the Cecchinel-Jager. 4/5 pitches of ice and mixed. The route seems to be in condition more often than other comparable lines on the face.

M Pelissier

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, Chamonix Winter Ideas.

Txitxar 18/May/17 Lead
Shea 12/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

First mixed climb, raced up the first 3 pitches in a 1-er, Amazing experience!

with Sean Martin, freja
Ewan Russell 16/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Faye Manners
Hidden 26/Feb/17 AltLd
janegallwey 25/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Didn't lead any of the harder bits.

SeánM ?/Feb/17 AltLd
adie84 ??/2017 -
7toes 21/Apr/16 -
with John
Hidden 09/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Chris81 28/Mar/16 2nd

I seconded most of the pitches with a guide leading (Mark Chadwick). I lead the snow slope 4th pitch, ironically the most run out of all the pitches.

Rob Royle 28/Jan/16 2nd
with Mountain Guide
Matt Groom 24/Jan/16 AltLd
DaveThexton 24/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
with Matt Groom
Hidden ??/2016 -
James Thacker ??/2016 -
Hidden 26/Oct/15 AltLd
alexm198 26/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Great conditions. In four 60m pitches. Led odds. Super icy apart from the top pitch which was pretty much dry and featured some sweet M5 moves off bomber hooks.

James W 20/Apr/15 2nd
with Mark Thomas
nickwhimster 12/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
monsteratt 12/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Some very enjoyable pitches and stunning weather

with Nick Whimster
Hidden 20/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/15 AltLd
niallsash 14/Jan/15 -
DigitalSteak 08/Jan/15 AltLd
with Pat, Graeme Barr
machars 08/Jan/15 AltLd

P1 & 4

with Pat, Charley
Grant Fulton ?/May/14 Lead
with Johnny
Gumery ?/May/14 2nd
with Grant
Hidden 12/Apr/14 -
Steve Wakeford 07/Apr/14 Lead

Pretty spare compared to grade and description. Didn't summit, lack of time. Intend to!

with Anna Martin
darcan 02/Apr/14 AltLd
with Vegarye
ndraper1 25/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
chapmand 25/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 20/Feb/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden 20/Feb/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden 22/Jan/14 AltLd
Hidden 02/Apr/13 AltLd dnf
Tommy Harris 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 02/Apr/13 AltLd dnf

Spent nearly an hour digging a trench to the base of the route to allow 4 teams to run past us and enjoy the route in a no gear, no belays, overlapping ropes sort of way. Abandoned ship prior to getting fully engaged in violence or a serious clusterfuck.

Hidden 22/Feb/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jan/13 AltLd dnf
Dunx 29/Mar/12 AltLd
with Steve Holmes
BorisVBlade 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Sam Thompson
smithaldo 09/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with mark, Clegg
Ross Barnes 02/Mar/12 AltLd
with Ally
Alasdair Fulton 02/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
mcaterina ?/Jan/12 2nd
Ben Wolstenholme 03/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
AdamCB ?/Apr/11 2nd

With Neil Brodie

stuart34 17/Feb/11 AltLd O/S


with Amos Swanson
twoplates 08/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Josh
Morgan Woods 24/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Good day out. Ski in from midi and back down VB. Kept going to top and easy walk back down to skis.

with Kenton
Wanaski 23/Jan/11 -
with Rick
Charlie Evans 10/Apr/10 2nd β
with Unai
industrialiceman 26/Jan/10 2nd
thebigeasy ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/09 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Oct/08 AltLd

Fantastic route - neat ice climbing up a kind of couloir / ramp. Then some some proper HVS type rock climbing at the top to exit.

with Jeff Ingman
Hidden ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
zero six ??/2008 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 16/Apr/07 -
GaryK ?/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

Rapped the route from the top of the last pitch, which was a difficult diagonal abseil, with a hard pull through. The rest of the abseils were OK.

with Genki Narumi
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