Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 6 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest on the main crag and the restriction covers the whole crag. If the birds fail to nest or fledge early then the restriction wil be lifted early and noted here.
Rockfax Description
The start is quite strenuous. Begin near the small embedded block by a low flat ledge at 1m.
1) 5b, 17m. From the ledge, move up and gain the left-hand downward-pointing fang, just above a spike. Now head more or less straight up to gain a thin crack and carry on up towards the left rib and into a groove with a ledge. With good rope work you can link both pitches into a fantastic single pitch.
2] 5a, 17m. Head up the groove passing an overlap. Step left at the next overlap to climb the rib to the bigger overhang, with a clean V-groove running up its left side. Head up here and carry on straight up to where the rock runs out and you have to teeter up broken ground to the left of a large boulder to a belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Bold and strenuous!
1] 21m 5b
Start at the green scoop to the right of the Scrub Way ramp. Ascend the wall past a bulge (6m) and upwards, left at 15m across a rib and share the belay ledge of Scrub Way, under the triangular overhang.
2] 22m 5a
Move up the v-groove to the overhang. Climb it directly, or avoid via the groove on the right. Continue up using good holds to the easier journey to the top.
JF Kerry, J Roberts 10/Sep/1968.
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Guidebooks for Craig Dinas (Betws Y Coed)
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