Rockfax Description
A neat excursion spiralling up the left-hand side of the face. The route has long been popular with beginners. It is described with the Spiral Variant which avoids the tricky slab on the direct version of P2 and 3. Start just left of the block of The Capstan, below a broken rib.
1) 15m. Up the rib then move across left to a stance below a chimney with twin 'horns'.
2) 10m. Gain the chimney on the left awkwardly then up and exit leftwards to a stance.
3) 10m. Climb to a ledge then up the tricky crack on the right to a belay.
4) 12m. Move right 3m to a slab and up to the jammed flake of the Arch and a junction with the The Direct Route just before its famous hand traverse.
5) 14m. Up the groove on the left on huge flakes to a leftwards exit to an airy stance.
6) 12m. Finish up the rib to reach the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch

1.91e+03 Jan/1991

Ticklists: Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse.

Hidden 13/Aug Lead
LovelyMrTom 08/Jul AltLd O/S

Very nice route. Started about 4pm. Lead pitch 1 & 2 run together, tricky parts here. Ian lead pitched 3 & 4 together. Lead pitch 5, found the correct line and it is a wonderful pitch! Ian lead pitch 6 then scramble to the top and down Gribbin Ridge as the sun went down. Made it to pub in time for a pizza and a beer. Good day!

Ian.ch 08/Jul AltLd

After the first pitch or two becomes an excellent airy route. Pitch 5 (tom lead) was wild and exposed :)I Lead p3&4 together and the scrambly sixth, could've lead it better but happy now. We'd started at 4pm and scrambled up to the top and down Gribin with Glydr Fach and Tryfan bathed in pink light and nobody else around.

with Emma M, Tom Eveleigh
dkd 03/Jun AltLd
with James Meakin
escalador ?/May Solo
Sam2257 10/Sep/16 Solo O/S
JezzaCat 03/Jul/16 AltLd
with Scott
scottywakefield 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Alps training weekend

with Jeremy
five 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with ALA
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Wendy Watthews 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Combing as many pitches together as possible lead out as the last route of the day before summiting

arandall 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 AltLd
MariaT 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

Rock badly chewed-up in places by crampons. Paul missed the leftwards exit on P5, so thrutched up the chimney and laybacked out to the top of the rib, which added some extra spice!

with Paul Russell, David Walker
David Walker 23/May/15 2nd O/S
paulerussell 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

thehugehead 29/Jun/14 Lead

Climbed instead of Direct Route as party on Direct Route wanted climb to themselves with no one else on it.

Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Robertspd2 ?/Jun/14 2nd
carl_123 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Permia 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Garnett
rbharries ??/2014 Solo
with neils EW
Amber Chaloner 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Final pitch was worth it on the exposed rib. Though navigating the grass at the start of it was tricky and gearless.

with Hayley Graham
Hidden ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Paula Ryan ?/Jun/13 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 01/Oct/11 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead rpt
nikmorgan ?/Oct/06 2nd
with Martyn Beardsley
caradoc 15/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with SarahW
Hidden 14/Aug/03 Solo
duncana 19/Jul/03 AltLd

Nice easy one, Pippa chucked rucksack off first belay, heaved it down with rain at top.

with Pippa Archer
bms 08/Jul/03 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jul/03 AltLd
Iain Thow 06/May/95 Solo
Rob Davies ?/Sep/93 Solo

via Spiral Variant

Hidden 27/Jul/91 Solo
nigehughes ?/Apr/88 AltLd
with Colin Bell
Bob M ?/May/80 -
with Roy Fisher
mikej 01/Jan/79 Lead
with Mike Mason
Bolt Phobia 15/Nov/75 AltLd
Nigel Bond 26/Jul/75 Lead
with Donald Workman
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/71 Lead
eroica64 ?/Jul/65 2nd
with Bill Harrison
eroica64 02/May/65 2nd

While working at Pen y Gwrhyd Hotel.

with Bill Harrison
kjacks ??/1964 2nd
with Dave Peers
oldmanofmow ?/Jun/59 2nd

Bob Caulkwell OUMC meet

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