Rockfax Description
The character building rifts on the right can be climbed in as many as six short pitches. Start 3m right of the large 'Capstan' block.
1) 30m. Climb the rib and crack as for Lot's Wife then move right into the base of the mighty rift below the overhangs.
2) 18m. Up the chasm until an exit right is possible. Head left over blocks back to the gully.
3) 15m. A crack on the left leads to flakes. Go behind these then back right into the gully.
4) 20m. Do battle with the jaws of the Vertical Vice then finish up the corner above.
4a) 25m. If the Vertical Vice shuts you down a devious escape can be made. Move up into the slot on the left. Tunnel in along the passage to where the chasm turns a corner. Head round this and chimney up the easier slot to be reborn on the top of the crag. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
7 Pitch

1.91e+03 Jan/1991

Ticklists: A grand easy welsh day out, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Snowdonia in Chains.

BenCollis 24/Jun Lead
Cheese Monkey 24/Jun AltLd O/S

Great fun and a good fight. Belayed directly after the vice to haul bags on the outside of it!

with Ben C
Tim Rodgers 11/Jun AltLd
adam clarke 28/May AltLd

Led p1, p3. Wet, especially for first couple of pitches but only added to the ambience. p3 heads left a bit more than Rockfax topo would suggest

with James Hulme
Pete_Frost 05/May AltLd O/S

Sarah Hughes' birthday climb. I've led less perplexing E2s! Great fun and a "must do" route.

Phil Layton 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Phil Laxton
Kinge 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Francis Tocher, Rob
ftocher 30/Jul/16 AltLd
with Kinge
Hidden 23/Jun/16 AltLd
shed_hed 15/May/16 Solo O/S

Did this in stickies and when it was bone dry so I probably haven't earned the tick but actually really enjoyed this. In the first chimney I was climbing using 3 different cracks simultaneously! The vertical vice was very cool but a squeeze (had to take pack off) with a cool exposed exit swing onto the face.

foostu4 02/Jan/16 Lead

Sopping wet in big boots. Couldn't get up the vertical vice, went dark. Bailed off over the chockstone and into the gully on the right which made for an interesting decent! 2 abs later, one down a waterfall and happy days at the bottom. Brutal picth, proper sandbag!

davebrox ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
dansimkin 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Matt Malkin
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Solo
Hidden 13/Aug/15 -
will5001 ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
jimorothy 12/Jun/15 AltLd

The Vice is brutal - a classic tussle - with a rucksack on. Rach breezed the Vice. Quality

with Rachel Crolla
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
PeteMc 23/May/15 AltLd

In big boots

Alex Mason 23/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/14 AltLd
outdoorrob999 17/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 17/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 11/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Gorgeous day did some diff on tryfan before this did both the glyders afterwards.

with Alex(Blue peris)
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Climbing together 3rd climb on tour de ogewn.

with Matt
TGreen 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Rosie Henstock 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/14 AltLd
rbharries 28/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with neils EW, josie McG
Hidden 26/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 -
Jim Tan 30/Mar/14 -
with davos
Si ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 AltLd

Thought I was off in the vice!

with neils EW, josie McG
peakcaver ??/2014 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Hidden 13/Oct/13 -
Hidden 13/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/13 AltLd dnf
lithos 15/Jul/13 AltLd

in 3 pitches, Tony got the squeeze which is desperate !!

with tony w
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
SteveM 08/Sep/12 Solo
Hidden 14/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Lotte Stuer 30/Oct/11 Lead

Big boots and in the wet... What a struggle, epic!

with Jamie
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
Pichol 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Retreated after first pitch.

with Nick Judkins, robjdc
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd
tom.e 17/Apr/11 Solo O/S
smallerrich 10/Apr/11 Solo O/S

The vice isnt as tight as people make it out to be... But then I'm pretty small

with Bertie, Dan R
samrad 02/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with james G
spadge 03/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Freezing cold weather made it hard going. Was well worth it though.

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Tarquin 30/Aug/10 Lead
with Ness
Hidden 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
danimal88 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

HVW. many things that are wet are good

with Chris Holden
Harri777 ?/Aug/10 AltLd

A must for fans of the traditional. Awesome.

with Chiz
Mikelo 05/Jun/10 AltLd
with adam
adam06 05/Jun/10 AltLd

very good top pitch. recon the crux is about 4b tho

demarcation86 ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Liam FLeming 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

wet windy

with karen dalzell
Storm Hunter ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
James Oakes ?/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Phil Oakes, Andy Dickerson, Josh Dickerson, Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence
Cardi 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

What fun! In big boots and rucksacks. Chasm pitch was a bit cheeky, but nothing compared to the Vertical Vice! One word - desperate! Had to remove rucksack and suspend from 16ft sling on a couple of occasions on that pitch. I've done HVS's with easier cruxes!

with Ollie R
Hidden 14/Jun/08 AltLd
Simon Hodgson 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/08 AltLd
Adam Booth 05/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
with Roel, Tim Evans, Ed Booth, Ed Booth, Roel, Tim Evans
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
PanzerHanzler 09/Oct/07 AltLd

Led pitches 3, 5 and 7 - Hardest VD I've led anything on. The vertical vice's jaws want to hang on to any poor sod entering them! The finishing Y shaped crack(s) seemed a bit stiff for a VD as well. The climb is total quality and certainly worth the hike in.

with David Rafe
stemill 25/Aug/07 AltLd dnf
with Graham
Calder 25/Aug/07 AltLd dnf

Ste coudn't get up the vertical vice before the sun went down(!), so we bailed over the fallen chockstone.

with Ste
Hidden 10/Aug/07 AltLd
John HW 10/Aug/07 AltLd

A Great fun climb in the wet. Rhys enjoyed the subterranean exit

with Rhys HW, Cath
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
ebastock 10/Jun/07 2nd

A great day out with Bill, Dennis and Clive

with John Beddard
bendurance ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Led both chimney pitches. Not very easy in the wet - more like HS than Vdiff

with JC
tedburt 05/May/07 Solo O/S

With Malcolm too

Keith Jones 04/May/07 AltLd
with ali, David
tobydunford 13/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Dom Whillans ??/2007 -
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
Diggler ??/2007 AltLd O/S
wirralclimber1984 01/Dec/06 AltLd O/S
with jerry and rich
rwm7131 01/Dec/06 AltLd
with Kevin Charleston & Jerry Lewis
Mike Roach ?/Aug/06 2nd dog
with Laurence Hicks
caradoc 02/Jun/06 Solo O/S
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Tim W 12/Nov/05 AltLd O/S

Big boots, in the wet

with Paddy
KeithW 03/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

Led 2 & 4. Mike had a hold break off in chimney.

with Mike Nuttall
Hidden 17/Jul/05 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/05 Lead
Darragh ??/2005 -

Perfect route for a wet day. Full on rebirth struggle!

with Mark
Hidden 24/May/04 Lead
Little B 28/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with Jane
Tom M Williams ?/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Andy Davies
Hidden 16/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
jmr 23/Jul/00 AltLd
with Paul Greenhow
Derek Ryden ??/2000 Solo
with Dawn, Dave the Leg, Anna, Andy Forbes, Ian Parnell
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/99 Solo O/S
Dom Goodwin 02/May/99 Lead

The crux is very safe but desperate. Surely at least S 4b.

with Peter
BenTiffin ?/Sep/98 Lead

Interesting? move through the vice.

with Kate Wheatcroft, Rachel Yeates
sixties 14/May/98 AltLd
with hrd
nigehughes ?/Mar/97 AltLd
with Andy Smith
Hidden 26/Jul/95 AltLd
Iain Thow 06/May/95 Solo
stokienomad 12/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/93 AltLd
Rob Davies ?/Sep/93 Solo
Hidden 21/Jul/92 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/91 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Jun/90 AltLd
with Scooter Beresford
Raggar ??/1990 AltLd
with Andy J
Ched ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Mike Owen 03/Feb/87 AltLd

Did this with a group of fellow students from I M Marsh, supervised by Gavin Peat. We weren't allowed to use any modern equipment and all of us wore mountain boots. A classic mountain day out. Great fun despite the rock being really wet and greasy!

Bob M ??/1987 -
with Robert Read
Ian Archer 01/Apr/86 Lead
with Neil Watson
wynaptomos ?/Jun/85 Solo
Hidden ?/Apr/85 Lead O/S
mikej 23/Oct/82 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
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