85m.

Rockfax Description
The character building rifts on the right can be climbed in as many as six short pitches. Start 3m right of the large 'Capstan' block.
1) 30m. Climb the rib and crack as for Lot's Wife then move right into the base of the mighty rift below the overhangs.
2) 18m. Up the chasm until an exit right is possible. Head left over blocks back to the gully.
3) 15m. A crack on the left leads to flakes. Go behind these then back right into the gully.
4) 20m. Do battle with the jaws of the Vertical Vice then finish up the corner above.
4a) 25m. If the Vertical Vice shuts you down a devious escape can be made. Move up into the slot on the left. Tunnel in along the passage to where the chasm turns a corner. Head round this and chimney up the easier slot to be reborn on the top of the crag. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
7 Pitch

1.91e+03 Jan/1991

Ticklists

A grand easy welsh day out, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Snowdonia in Chains, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, Mountain Rock

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 22 Jun AltLd
Hidden 22 Jun AltLd
Albanian 22 Jun Lead O/S Wanted direct route but busy so did pitch1 of this and then lots wife followed by the 4c pitch of direct route
with Stewart Hesketh
Wanted direct route but busy so did pitch1 of this and then lots wife followed by the 4c pitch of direct route
with Stewart Hesketh
Hoopadoop ?? -
Hidden ?? -
Hidden ?? -
sheelba 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd Wanted to do this for ages, didn’t disappoint
with Alex, Naomi
Wanted to do this for ages, didn’t disappoint
with Alex, Naomi
alexporter 30 Jun, 2018 2nd
with sheelba, Naomi Dalton
with sheelba, Naomi Dalton
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
joetoad667 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Joe.Elliott1 9 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Thorpy
with Thorpy
Thorpy 9 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Well that was different, full body jam in the vice, had to get winched out ????
Well that was different, full body jam in the vice, had to get winched out ????
Tom66 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Leading Rich up his first multipitch day. A grand sunny day
with Thorpy
Leading Rich up his first multipitch day. A grand sunny day
with Thorpy
mikelaing ?May, 2018 Lead
with Briony and Stuart
with Briony and Stuart
Hidden 17 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
dkd 17 Oct, 2017 AltLd
with karly54
with karly54
BenCollis 24 Jun, 2017 Lead
Cheese Monkey 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Great fun and a good fight. Belayed directly after the vice to haul bags on the outside of it!
with Ben C
Great fun and a good fight. Belayed directly after the vice to haul bags on the outside of it!
with Ben C
Hidden 11 Jun, 2017 AltLd
adam clarke 28 May, 2017 AltLd Led p1, p3. Wet, especially for first couple of pitches but only added to the ambience. p3 heads left a bit more than Rockfax topo would suggest
with James Hulme
Led p1, p3. Wet, especially for first couple of pitches but only added to the ambience. p3 heads left a bit more than Rockfax topo would suggest
with James Hulme
Pete_Frost 5 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Sarah Hughes' birthday climb. I've led less perplexing E2s! Great fun and a "must do" route.
Sarah Hughes' birthday climb. I've led less perplexing E2s! Great fun and a "must do" route.
Phil Layton 26 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with Phil Laxton
with Phil Laxton
ozziespain 6 Nov, 2016 AltLd β
Kinge 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with ftocher, Rob
with ftocher, Rob
ftocher 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Kinge
with Kinge
Fuzzy Logic 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Arwel Elias
with Arwel Elias
shed_hed 15 May, 2016 Solo O/S Did this in stickies and when it was bone dry so I probably haven't earned the tick but actually really enjoyed this. In the first chimney I was climbing using 3 different cracks simultaneously! The vertical vice was very cool but a squeeze (had to take pack off) with a cool exposed exit swing onto the face.
Did this in stickies and when it was bone dry so I probably haven't earned the tick but actually really enjoyed this. In the first chimney I was climbing using 3 different cracks simultaneously! The vertical vice was very cool but a squeeze (had to take pack off) with a cool exposed exit swing onto the face.
Helen Rudkin 2 Jan, 2016 2nd
with foostu4
with foostu4
foostu4 2 Jan, 2016 Lead Sopping wet in big boots. Couldn't get up the vertical vice, went dark. Bailed off over the chockstone and into the gully on the right which made for an interesting decent! 2 abs later, one down a waterfall and happy days at the bottom. Brutal picth, proper sandbag!
Sopping wet in big boots. Couldn't get up the vertical vice, went dark. Bailed off over the chockstone and into the gully on the right which made for an interesting decent! 2 abs later, one down a waterfall and happy days at the bottom. Brutal picth, proper sandbag!
davebrox ??, 2016 -
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
dansimkin 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Matt Malkin
with Matt Malkin
Hidden 19 Sep, 2015 Solo
Hidden 13 Aug, 2015 -
will5001 ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
jimorothy 12 Jun, 2015 AltLd The Vice is brutal - a classic tussle - with a rucksack on. Rach breezed the Vice. Quality
with Rachel Crolla
The Vice is brutal - a classic tussle - with a rucksack on. Rach breezed the Vice. Quality
with Rachel Crolla
Hidden 23 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
PeteMc 23 May, 2015 AltLd In big boots
In big boots
Alex Mason 23 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Nov, 2014 AltLd
outdoorrob999 17 Oct, 2014 2nd
Samuel Wainwright 17 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Pouring rain and big boots.. The exit to the vice is memorable!
with Jed Jackson, Rob Steer
Pouring rain and big boots.. The exit to the vice is memorable!
with Jed Jackson, Rob Steer
Ewan Russell 11 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Gorgeous day did some diff on tryfan before this did both the glyders afterwards.
with Alex(Blue peris)
Gorgeous day did some diff on tryfan before this did both the glyders afterwards.
with Alex(Blue peris)
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Climbing together 3rd climb on tour de ogewn.
with Matt
Climbing together 3rd climb on tour de ogewn.
with Matt
TGreen 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Rosie Henstock 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with TGreen
with TGreen
Hidden 27 May, 2014 AltLd
rbharries 28 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with neils EW, josie McG
with neils EW, josie McG
Hidden 26 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Mar, 2014 -
Jim Tan 30 Mar, 2014 -
with davos
with davos
Si ??, 2014 -
rbharries ??, 2014 AltLd Thought I was off in the vice!
with neils EW, josie McG
Thought I was off in the vice!
with neils EW, josie McG
peakcaver ??, 2014 -
Nick Biven ??, 2014 -
Hidden 13 Oct, 2013 -
Hidden 13 Oct, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 12 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2013 AltLd dnf
lithos 15 Jul, 2013 AltLd in 3 pitches, Tony got the squeeze which is desperate !!
with tony w
in 3 pitches, Tony got the squeeze which is desperate !!
with tony w
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead
SteveM 8 Sep, 2012 Solo
Will Beaumont 14 Apr, 2012 AltLd So cold my hands and feet were numb for a lot of it! Climbed with James along with Paul and Thomas in another pair.
So cold my hands and feet were numb for a lot of it! Climbed with James along with Paul and Thomas in another pair.
Hidden ??, 2012 -
matt perks ??, 2012 -
Lotte Stuer 30 Oct, 2011 Lead Big boots and in the wet... What a struggle, epic!
with Jamie
Big boots and in the wet... What a struggle, epic!
with Jamie
SianR 1 Oct, 2011 Solo
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 Solo O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 Lead
Pichol 30 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S Retreated after first pitch.
with Nick Judkins, robjdc
Retreated after first pitch.
with Nick Judkins, robjdc
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 30 Apr, 2011 AltLd
tom.e 17 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S
smallerrich 10 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S The vice isnt as tight as people make it out to be... But then I'm pretty small
with Bertie, Dan R
The vice isnt as tight as people make it out to be... But then I'm pretty small
with Bertie, Dan R
samrad 2 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S
with james G
with james G
spadge 3 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Freezing cold weather made it hard going. Was well worth it though.
Freezing cold weather made it hard going. Was well worth it though.
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
djromberg ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Tarquin 30 Aug, 2010 Lead
with Ness
with Ness
Hidden 27 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
danimal88 17 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S HVW. many things that are wet are good
with Chris Holden
HVW. many things that are wet are good
with Chris Holden
Harri777 ?Aug, 2010 AltLd A must for fans of the traditional. Awesome.
with Chiz
A must for fans of the traditional. Awesome.
with Chiz
Mikelo 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with adam06
with adam06
adam06 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd very good top pitch. recon the crux is about 4b tho
with Mikelo
very good top pitch. recon the crux is about 4b tho
with Mikelo
demarcation86 ?May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 25 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S wet windy
with karen dalzell
wet windy
with karen dalzell
Storm Hunter ?Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2009 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 2009 AltLd
James Oakes ?Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Phil Oakes, Andy Dickerson, Josh Dickerson, Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence
with Phil Oakes, Andy Dickerson, Josh Dickerson, Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence
Cardi 15 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S What fun! In big boots and rucksacks. Chasm pitch was a bit cheeky, but nothing compared to the Vertical Vice! One word - desperate! Had to remove rucksack and suspend from 16ft sling on a couple of occasions on that pitch. I've done HVS's with easier cruxes!
with Ollie R
What fun! In big boots and rucksacks. Chasm pitch was a bit cheeky, but nothing compared to the Vertical Vice! One word - desperate! Had to remove rucksack and suspend from 16ft sling on a couple of occasions on that pitch. I've done HVS's with easier cruxes!
with Ollie R
Hidden 14 Jun, 2008 AltLd
Simon Hodgson 14 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Flicka
with Flicka
Hidden 8 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jan, 2008 AltLd
Adam Booth 5 Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Roel, Dim Dringo, Ed Booth, Ed Booth, Roel, Tim Evans
with Roel, Dim Dringo, Ed Booth, Ed Booth, Roel, Tim Evans
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
PanzerHanzler 9 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S Led pitches 3, 5 and 7 - Hardest VD I've led anything on. The vertical vice's jaws want to hang on to any poor sod entering them! The finishing Y shaped crack(s) seemed a bit stiff for a VD as well. The climb is total quality and certainly worth the hike in.
with David Rafe
Led pitches 3, 5 and 7 - Hardest VD I've led anything on. The vertical vice's jaws want to hang on to any poor sod entering them! The finishing Y shaped crack(s) seemed a bit stiff for a VD as well. The climb is total quality and certainly worth the hike in.
with David Rafe
stemill 25 Aug, 2007 AltLd dnf
with Calder
with Calder
Calder 25 Aug, 2007 AltLd dnf Ste coudn't get up the vertical vice before the sun went down(!), so we bailed over the fallen chockstone.
with stemill
Ste coudn't get up the vertical vice before the sun went down(!), so we bailed over the fallen chockstone.
with stemill
Hidden 10 Aug, 2007 AltLd
John HW 10 Aug, 2007 AltLd A Great fun climb in the wet. Rhys enjoyed the subterranean exit
with Rhys HW, Cath
A Great fun climb in the wet. Rhys enjoyed the subterranean exit
with Rhys HW, Cath
Hidden ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
ebastock 10 Jun, 2007 2nd A great day out with Bill, Dennis and Clive
with John Beddard
A great day out with Bill, Dennis and Clive
with John Beddard
bendurance ?Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S Led both chimney pitches. Not very easy in the wet - more like HS than Vdiff
with JC
Led both chimney pitches. Not very easy in the wet - more like HS than Vdiff
with JC
tedburt 5 May, 2007 Solo O/S With Malcolm too
With Malcolm too
Keith Jones 4 May, 2007 AltLd
tobydunford 13 Apr, 2007 Solo O/S
Dom Whillans ??, 2007 -
fran04 ??, 2007 AltLd
Diggler ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
wirralclimber1984 1 Dec, 2006 AltLd O/S
with jerry and rich
with jerry and rich
rwm7131 1 Dec, 2006 AltLd
with Kevin Charleston & Jerry Lewis
with Kevin Charleston & Jerry Lewis
Mike Roach ?Aug, 2006 2nd dog
with Laurence Hicks
with Laurence Hicks
caradoc 2 Jun, 2006 Solo O/S
mikelaing ??, 2006 -
Tim W 12 Nov, 2005 AltLd O/S Big boots, in the wet
with Paddy
Big boots, in the wet
with Paddy
KeithW 3 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S Led 2 & 4. Mike had a hold break off in chimney.
with Mike Nuttall
Led 2 & 4. Mike had a hold break off in chimney.
with Mike Nuttall
Hidden 17 Jul, 2005 2nd
Hidden 17 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2005 Lead
Darragh ??, 2005 - Perfect route for a wet day. Full on rebirth struggle!
with Mark
Perfect route for a wet day. Full on rebirth struggle!
with Mark
Hidden 24 May, 2004 Lead
Little B 28 Sep, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Jane
with Jane
Tom M Williams ?Jul, 2003 2nd O/S
with Andy Davies
with Andy Davies
Hidden 16 Jun, 2001 AltLd O/S
jmr 23 Jul, 2000 AltLd
with Paul Greenhow
with Paul Greenhow
Derek Ryden ??, 2000 Solo
with Dawn, Dave the Leg, Anna, Andy Forbes, Ian Parnell
with Dawn, Dave the Leg, Anna, Andy Forbes, Ian Parnell
Ed Booth ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 1999 Solo O/S
Dom Goodwin 2 May, 1999 Lead The crux is very safe but desperate. Surely at least S 4b.
with Peter
The crux is very safe but desperate. Surely at least S 4b.
with Peter
BenTiffin ?Sep, 1998 Lead Interesting? move through the vice.
with Kate Wheatcroft, Rachel Yeates
Interesting? move through the vice.
with Kate Wheatcroft, Rachel Yeates
FatRob 20 May, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Jim Strange
with Jim Strange
sixties 14 May, 1998 AltLd
with hrd
with hrd
nigehughes ?Mar, 1997 AltLd
with Andy Smith
with Andy Smith
Hidden 26 Jul, 1995 AltLd
Iain Thow 6 May, 1995 Solo
stokienomad 12 Jun, 1994 Lead
Hidden 16 Sep, 1993 AltLd
Rob Davies ?Sep, 1993 Solo
Hidden 21 Jul, 1992 AltLd O/S
JohnHutch 23 Jul, 1991 AltLd
with SA
with SA
nigehughes ?Jun, 1990 AltLd
with Scooter Beresford
with Scooter Beresford
Raggar ??, 1990 AltLd
with Andy J
with Andy J
Ched ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Glyn
with Glyn
Mike Owen 3 Feb, 1987 AltLd Did this with a group of fellow students from I M Marsh, supervised by Gavin Peat. We weren't allowed to use any modern equipment and all of us wore mountain boots. A classic mountain day out. Great fun despite the rock being really wet and greasy!
Did this with a group of fellow students from I M Marsh, supervised by Gavin Peat. We weren't allowed to use any modern equipment and all of us wore mountain boots. A classic mountain day out. Great fun despite the rock being really wet and greasy!
Bob M ??, 1987 -
with Robert Read
with Robert Read
Ian Archer 1 Apr, 1986 Lead
with Neil Watson
with Neil Watson
wynaptomos ?Jun, 1985 Solo
Hidden ?Apr, 1985 Lead O/S
mikej 23 Oct, 1982 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
with Geoff Williams
DonnyDave 10 Aug, 1978 AltLd
with Steve Holgarth
with Steve Holgarth
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Votes cast 20
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set