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UKClimbing Team

40m.

Rockfax Description
Fine climbing based on the dramatic square-cut arete.
1) 4c, 20m. Steady climbing leads to a large flake perched on the arete. Harder and bolder moves reach the sanctuary of a small ledge. Shuffle right to a shallow chimney-slot and move up this to a flake that leads out left onto the wall and a good ledge just above.
2) 14m. The slabby crack leads to the top. © Rockfax

1.94e+03 Jan/1994

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Chris Manasseh 20 Sep, 2019 Lead In one pitch
with Trev Smith
In one pitch
with Trev Smith
GermanAlex 22 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S Outstanding route, well worth the Top50 I thought. Manages to feel bold although the gear is there, and it's not like you'd hit anything on the way down. Still felt like it was closer to HVS than VS. Done as one pitch (top pitch not great).
with V1c
Outstanding route, well worth the Top50 I thought. Manages to feel bold although the gear is there, and it's not like you'd hit anything on the way down. Still felt like it was closer to HVS than VS. Done as one pitch (top pitch not great).
with V1c
V1c 22 Jun, 2019 2nd
yossarian714 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2
with gar0cky
Led P2
with gar0cky
snowy_woodruff 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd Dave had an awesome lead on the first pitch, I lead the second and made a hash of getting into the off width crack!
with Dave Ward, Mem
Dave had an awesome lead on the first pitch, I lead the second and made a hash of getting into the off width crack!
with Dave Ward, Mem
gar0cky 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Superb - feels bold and exposed after pulling onto the arete - gear well spaced but solid..
Superb - feels bold and exposed after pulling onto the arete - gear well spaced but solid..
richfitz 7 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Andrea
with Andrea
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Jack Manfredi 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Dad
with Dad
afearn91 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with LJJ77
with LJJ77
LJJ77 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 a nice route nothing too difficult
Led pitch 1 a nice route nothing too difficult
mark44 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Really nice moves
with Mike
Really nice moves
with Mike
Clegm 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd
steve prior ?Jun, 2018 Lead
with Andy C
with Andy C
Hidden 21 May, 2018 Lead O/S
alexandra 10 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 2nd
lusonavigator 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led P1. Gavin P2
with Gavin Buttimore
Led P1. Gavin P2
with Gavin Buttimore
Pixie-Andy 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Hawk's Nest Arête VS 4c and a little bit of... Slim Chance! After first pitch, a climber told Lisa we'd lead thin crack of Slim Chance - E1 5a. The crack was fingertip slim, 5a, but with 3 tiny cams only HVS Possibly E1 without a trinity of tiny cams. Does that get me a first ascent? If so i'm naming it Slim Chance Lisa - VS 5a! As for VS parts i lead, t'was a solid test piece, bold in easier sections & worth 3 stars. Hard descent, best not cut corners!
with Lisa
Hawk's Nest Arête VS 4c and a little bit of... Slim Chance! After first pitch, a climber told Lisa we'd lead thin crack of Slim Chance - E1 5a. The crack was fingertip slim, 5a, but with 3 tiny cams only HVS Possibly E1 without a trinity of tiny cams. Does that get me a first ascent? If so i'm naming it Slim Chance Lisa - VS 5a! As for VS parts i lead, t'was a solid test piece, bold in easier sections & worth 3 stars. Hard descent, best not cut corners!
with Lisa
Chris Murray 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd Led P1
with Richard Bower
Led P1
with Richard Bower
JackM92 8 May, 2017 Lead O/S Brilliant all the way. Best VS I've ever been on.
Brilliant all the way. Best VS I've ever been on.
neal 7 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P1. Good holds throughout. Gear good.
with Sophie W-J
Led P1. Good holds throughout. Gear good.
with Sophie W-J
MJAS82 ?May, 2017 2nd
Hidden 22 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Emily_vau 22 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S A 45 min walk in which was tiring after a big day on the mountain. lovely climbing despite being tired. Great Route!
A 45 min walk in which was tiring after a big day on the mountain. lovely climbing despite being tired. Great Route!
fizzychewitt 5 Jun, 2016 Lead
with Stephen
with Stephen
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 Solo
shed_hed 15 May, 2016 Solo O/S Superb route! Great climbing on positive holds.
Superb route! Great climbing on positive holds.
Tim Sparrow ??, 2016 -
saintlade 11 Oct, 2015 - Great climb, highly recommend.
Great climb, highly recommend.
JoeCoxson 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Oli lead the first long pitch, and I fired up the second. P1 is magnificent, a brilliant aréte in a brilliant position. Worth its top 50
Oli lead the first long pitch, and I fired up the second. P1 is magnificent, a brilliant aréte in a brilliant position. Worth its top 50
omaskrey 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S I lead the first pitch and Joe finished up the second. Absolutely brilliant route
I lead the first pitch and Joe finished up the second. Absolutely brilliant route
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 2015 -
Hidden 2 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 23 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S
mike mo ??, 2015 -
mike mo ??, 2015 -
mike mo ??, 2015 -
mike mo ??, 2015 -
mike mo ??, 2015 -
centurion05 ??, 2015 -
Hidden 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 May, 2014 AltLd
Neil ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
with Dave Woodcock
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 May, 2013 Lead O/S
francesanncavanagh 6 May, 2013 2nd
with Craig Fussy Pants Letham
with Craig Fussy Pants Letham
Kyuzo 8 Sep, 2012 -
hrgcb 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Virgil Scott
with Virgil Scott
runestone 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd Pat led 4c pich
with Pat
Pat led 4c pich
with Pat
Hidden 21 May, 2012 AltLd
jezb1 21 May, 2012 AltLd Lead the 4c pitch. Lovely rock, shame it's only one good pitch. Quite bold but straight forward climbing.
Lead the 4c pitch. Lovely rock, shame it's only one good pitch. Quite bold but straight forward climbing.
Andrew Sloan 29 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Beautiful rock. Led 1st pitch. Delicate and runout on the upper section above the hanging flake. Abseiled off.Tough for VS, but an excellent route.
with Steve Grove
Beautiful rock. Led 1st pitch. Delicate and runout on the upper section above the hanging flake. Abseiled off.Tough for VS, but an excellent route.
with Steve Grove
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 26 Jul, 2011 Lead
Hidden 26 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Lotte Stuer 8 Jul, 2011 2nd Ab down after first pitch
with Dan Romberg
Ab down after first pitch
with Dan Romberg
aged_ape 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden ??, 2011 -
djromberg ??, 2011 -
Hidden 2 Sep, 2010 Lead
fizzychewitt 27 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with Dave
with Dave
Hidden 27 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2010 2nd
Irn Bruce 18 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook ?Jun, 2010 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?Jun, 2010 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
MD 13 Sep, 2009 2nd
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Brilliant pitch, loads of exposure for a VS
Brilliant pitch, loads of exposure for a VS
Hidden 7 Aug, 2009 Lead
Peter Metcalfe 31 May, 2009 Lead
with Paul Melrange
with Paul Melrange
@ndy 2 May, 2009 AltLd
with calder
with calder
Calder 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with @ndy
with @ndy
Hidden 18 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Peter Reynolds ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Ken Taylor 1 Jun, 2008 Lead
mikelaing ?May, 2008 Lead I'm not sure why this route gets 3 stars at all. Sure it's good climbing but it's a bit short to have such status and the good climbing is over almost as soon as it's started.
I'm not sure why this route gets 3 stars at all. Sure it's good climbing but it's a bit short to have such status and the good climbing is over almost as soon as it's started.
cas54321 ?May, 2008 2nd
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
Sean Kelly ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 2005 Lead
Hidden ?May, 2005 AltLd
Gman ?May, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Steve
with Steve
Jamie B ?Jun, 2004 AltLd
with Kris Quayle
with Kris Quayle
Small and weak ?May, 2004 AltLd
Bob M 11 Oct, 2003 Lead
with Stewart Walker
with Stewart Walker
duncana 19 Jul, 2003 2nd Lovely arete for second, unprotected for leader.
with Pippa Archer
Lovely arete for second, unprotected for leader.
with Pippa Archer
John Kettle ??, 2003 Lead
PaulTclimbing ??, 2003 -
nrg8125 28 Sep, 2002 AltLd
caradoc 29 Mar, 2002 Lead O/S
with MikeW
with MikeW
Nick Haine 14 May, 2000 Lead
alan moore ??, 2000 - Fantastic pitch. Better than Lots Groove. Probly
Fantastic pitch. Better than Lots Groove. Probly
Paul-Michael ??, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Nick Hanie
with Nick Hanie
ewjudge 31 Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Jez Hicks
with Jez Hicks
colin milton 8 Aug, 1996 2nd
with eric milton
with eric milton
Raggar 24 Jun, 1995 Lead
with Pete K, Jon B
with Pete K, Jon B
Tom V 1 Jun, 1995 AltLd
with Chris Mellor
with Chris Mellor
babymoac 6 Aug, 1994 Lead
with Ashley
with Ashley
Rob Davies ?Jul, 1994 Lead
roncaves 20 Jun, 1993 AltLd
with Ed Hyatt
with Ed Hyatt
Ched ??, 1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Hidden 6 May, 1989 Lead
Nick Biven ??, 1987 -
Hidden 10 Jul, 1985 Lead
nigehughes ?Jun, 1982 Lead
with Alec Pirrie
with Alec Pirrie
mikej 10 Jul, 1981 Lead
with Ian Bryant
with Ian Bryant
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 21
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set