Rockfax Description
A much-talked-about first pitch is followed by easier but still worthwhile climbing. E1 if you don't fall off! Start just to the left of the right edge of the wall.
1) 5b, 23m. Climb to below a small overhang and make a couple of committing moves up to, and then past it on the right (small wires). Continue directly up the lovely wall to a belay on a good ledge next to a huge flake.
2) 5a, 35m. Move up big ledges to where the rock steepens. Climb steep cracks heading for a black stain in an overlap above. Pull over the overlap, peg, and then step left. Move leftwards once again up a slab to the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney exiting onto easy ground, the top is not far above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics.

Hidden 25/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
janegallwey 25/Sep/17 AltLd rpt

Led P2, aka not the business pitch.

LJC 07/Sep/17 Lead O/S

P1 only

with Georgie
Hidden 02/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
alice fuller ?/Sep/17 AltLd

Lead 1st pitch. Took a while until I found a decent nut placement. Then enjoyed the whole thing.. stepped left at the top to make Pete do a horrid mantel to the belay.. which he nailed easily by oldtradmethod of swinging his bum up first. Pete lead the top pitch... different style of climbing and well worth doing

Jake Maxwell 22/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with chris
Marl 22/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch & Jake 2nd. Really good route

rurp 14/Jul/17 TR O/S

Fair. Some gear, but spaced

Tom Seccombe 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
evhall 23/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

p2 - good moves through overhanging chimney

with Mike B
bryan61 21/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with sally
Hidden 21/Jun/17 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/17 2nd O/S
hornbywill 17/May/17 Lead O/S

good fun finished up little brown jug

Sophie Nunn 17/May/17 2nd O/S
with Steve&Liv
Tommy yorke 17/May/17 2nd β
with hornbywill, Daisy peters
Alice Thompson ?/May/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 19/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 19/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
Katsmiff 17/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Last climb of the weekend. I did the first pitch, which was fine as there was gear to be had. No walk off after first pitch, so Ian finished up a mixture of Johanna and Little brown jug.

Senna 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Led 1st pitch

Christina 15/Apr/17 2nd

Had to leave Paul's brass nut (in the crux) and a number 3 higher up. Hopefully removed by now. I may have rested for a split second on the final pull over the bulge. i may have also rested at the crux on p1.

with Paul Clarkson
Lumbering Oaf 07/Apr/17 AltLd rpt

P2 - awkward top-out on to flat-topped soil covered block.

manbat 07/Apr/17 AltLd

Led P1. Glad to have finally led this pitch after previously backing off. Climbing isn't hard, but it is tense until you get that first bomber piece in!

Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead
Jess Carr 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Beni
Rhys Deane 01/Oct/16 AltLd dnf

lead first pitch but did not finish second due to losing light.

with Sam Russel
beni 01/Oct/16 AltLd
with Jess
WillDoyle ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
beni 23/Jul/16 TR
eel 08/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Anna
Alison Cairns 08/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Oooh had to give myself a reet good talking to to make myself do the start of this - much to close to the ground with rubbish gear for me! After finally moving up into the groove and some good pro it's sheer delight. Finished up LBJ.

with Charlie Watson
Hidden 08/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Wendy Watthews 02/Jul/16 AltLd rpt

Seconded 4 years ago. Today lead the first pitch and beni did the second as per lbj. Spent a bit of time faffing placing micros before committing to the start

with Beni
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
benkelsey 17/Jun/16 2nd rpt

First pitch of this into lbj. Easier than I remember, very Lundy-esque

James Oswald 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Nice first pitch, felt a little bold. Ben lead the top pitch of little brown jug.

kyaizawa 16/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Libby Passey
thetradlad 29/May/16 Lead O/S

Strayed towards finish of little brown jug

Master Chief 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
Spearos 29/May/16 AltLd rpt
Lumbering Oaf 16/May/16 TR

Solo top rope of P1. Great moves.

davebrox 10/May/16 AltLd

Rob and Danny

IanD353 30/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Mattholland96 19/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 02/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Led P1. Matt P2. There is solid pro on this route - just gotta look for it! fun route with good climbing.

manbat 02/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Matt did a good lead on P1. I still think I would have struggled. I led P2. Was tempted, like many, to finish up LBJ, as the traverse of the slab isn't that inviting. It's actually fine, though the pile of gravel where you want there to be a big jug after pulling up through the v-groove, is a bit unwelcome. Overall, a great route!

Hidden 26/Sep/15 AltLd
manbat 24/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Could not commit. Was not happy with the gear, nor could I see how to do the moves. Disgusted with myself. Still feels leading this kind of thing is miles away.

Brian H 20/Sep/15 Lead rpt

P1 only - finished up Little Brown Jug

with Martin Dunning
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd
Ed Babs 01/Aug/15 AltLd O/S


with AlexD
AlexD 01/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Ed
elliptic 18/Jul/15 AltLd

Finished up the LBJ flakes instead of the chimney/slot.

with Pete M.
JulesV 08/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Shauna
JoeCoxson 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Looks a lot blanker from the bottom, and I'd been told it was a gearless nightmare- surprisingly nice climbing with well spaced gear in fact.

Stu.Cossey 27/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
partz 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Ballsy first pitch by jonny with an awesome set of moves towards the start. Top pitch was good too, nice balancy rock over!

JonnyW 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 - really cool balancy and committing moves. Work up the nerve and go for it!

omaskrey 08/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Ed Walker
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
w.pettet-smith ?/Jun/15 2nd

great effort

clairejane ?/Jun/15 2nd

Will lead first pitch, then I lead through on Little Brown Jug

with will
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd
HimTiggins 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with Amanda, Alan
Billg 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
NancyJones 23/May/15 AltLd rpt

JT did P1, me P2

richardashe 22/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch. Thankful I took loads of micro nuts and cams. Second pitch was so different to the first. Large holds but nice and exposed.

cheeky 22/May/15 -

Richard led the 5b pitch one. I got confused at belay and we finished on little brown jug.

Hidden 22/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May/15 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 03/May/15 AltLd

Stu got the first I got the last.

with Stu Sherwood
jgordon75 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Actually led top pitch of Little Brown Jug

with Tim Jepson
Dunx 09/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Jake Thompsett, Adam
Martin Bagshaw 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Katsmiff 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Martin started leading. I lead the 2nd pitch.

Bob Peters ??/2015 2nd
beni ??/2015 Lead O/S
Misha 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Eszter
dobby 200 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

I led both pitches, awesome moves up the start of the route

joedoherty 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead rpt
nickstephens 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
gg4419 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
kyaizawa 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Hmmm seems like I disagree with the majority... Thought it was hard at E1 more like E2 (surely "E1 if you don't fall off" just means it's harder/more serious than E1...) Got quite tired hanging around trying to fiddle in half a dozen IMPs for the start - both calves and arms were feeling it by the end, and the whole route felt a lot harder than the neighbouring Thin Wall Special.

JRJones 21/Jun/14 2nd

Ky Leads all pitches.

BigTone 02/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Fell off low down. Gear seems shit, maybe there's better placements above.

mike lawrence? 28/May/14 AltLd

led first pitch which seemed quite hard to me, fab top pitch as well which is much better than it looks

with FatRob
Hinchrn 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Johny Logan
Hidden 24/Apr/14 2nd
jakenichol 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

1st pitch only

with Stu Mackenzie, Martin Fowler
Hidden 18/Mar/14 2nd
jcw ??/2014 -
W d c ??/2014 Solo O/S
Tubs 31/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Reasonably well protected by RPs. Soft but not a good first E1.

with Dave M
Justin T 31/Aug/13 Lead
with Nancy
dready 19/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

nice bold moves at the bottom but the holds are there

Trobbo 12/Aug/13 2nd
with Stu Bradbury
ian d f 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Bob, Norman
Bob M 04/Jul/13 2nd
leon 27/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Really tired after a week being harassed by the kids. Didn't trust any of the gear below the overhang, good job the climbing felt easy.

Tim M 24/May/13 Lead O/S

In a memorably gusty force 5...

with Emma
climbergg 24/May/13 AltLd
oakapple 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Simon Alden 16/May/13 Lead O/S
with Craig Harwood
cem 30/Mar/13 AltLd rpt

Led p1. Cold fingers

Kirill 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Davebryant 19/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
sam.hann 19/Feb/13 AltLd
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Ed morris 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with matt jackson
jacksonm1 23/Nov/12 2nd
jacobjlloyd 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

First pitch only, as it started to rain and was getting dark. Felt necky at the grade until you got to the moves - hard to read from below but alright in the end. Gear and holds are all there if you look well. Really enjoyable!

nimajneb 27/Oct/12 2nd
El3ctroFuzz 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Cool steady climb. Benchmark.

with Paul Roberts
Spearos 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

lead P1 finished up Little Brown Jug

with Riggo
Hidden 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd
mjeffery 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Rob
MD 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 26/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Mike led first pitch with scary early moves.

with Mike D
tgeh 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Howie
HowieB 22/Jun/12 Lead

Crux pitch

Hidden 03/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/Jun/12 Lead
with Lun
burto 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with malc
givemetea 07/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

led P1

dprctr 07/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Ros lead pitch 1, myself pitch 2. Felt committing on the slabby traverse and the chimney offered good well protected exposure.

Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Alan100 06/Apr/12 AltLd

Top moves are a lot friendlier than they looked from below :D reckon it'd make a nice alternative finish to Little brown jug...

Dave89 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with RichardN, Fat Al
RichardN 06/Apr/12 2nd dog
3 Names 06/Apr/12 2nd

sumee lead pitch 1, me pitch 2

Paul ablitt 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 AltLd
with Rick Graham
arandall 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First pitch was fairly sustained through the crux section, brilliant climbing. Made a mess of the chimney at the end of the second pitch.

Wendy Watthews 12/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Tophe 04/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Feb/12 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/11 AltLd
jelaby 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Notgnarly led P1, I led P2, which seems slightly contrived. It's all about P1 though, isn't it.

Hidden 20/Aug/11 AltLd
duncan 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
benkelsey 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S

fantastic first pitch although I climbed it terribly. (hot conditions - you know!) finished up the last pitch of Little brown jug.. Visionary jugs perhaps?

with Phill Butler
Hidden 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
a13x 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
pudding 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
royal 31/May/11 2nd

Johnny led, did it in one pitch (!) I pulled on a piece of gear on one of the crux moves near the bottom.

gowla 31/May/11 AltLd O/S
with will kumar
Hidden 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Justin T 19/Mar/11 2nd
redshapedfriday 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

I did the easier last pitch.

with nick stevens
nickstephens 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Interesting start which was made a little less scary with Grahams RP's.

with Graham Hadaway
Hidden 09/Sep/10 2nd
Rob Pitt 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Helen Pitt
metal arms 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Little AndyH 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/10 -
JerryD ??/2010 Lead
williamsd79 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Bobby Gilbert 20/Dec/09 Lead O/S

first (crux) pitch only

katherinesydney 20/Dec/09 2nd dog

Did first pitch (sat down alot!), then finished with last two pitches of little brown jug

joese7en 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

low in the grade protection is adequate, good route

Don Jebus 17/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Finished up little brown jug P2, made a better line i thought

Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd
nickdonohue ?/Oct/09 Lead

I did 1st pitch

with Andy March
rockferret 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. Pete did the harder first pitch.

with Pete
Hidden 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Beck Robinson 31/Aug/09 2nd
Dan_Carroll 31/Aug/09 Lead rpt

P1, combined with top pitch of Thin Wall Special.

Hidden 30/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/09 2nd O/S
masa-alpin 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, Doug, P2 (he has climbed it before).

with Doug S
dannyboy83 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd
brian watson 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
cmsg 02/May/09 -

Led P1.

with Llewelyn Thomas
lrandall ?/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd and 3rd pitches

with Matt ?
Hidden 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 29/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/08 2nd O/S
HughM ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with David Barlow
r@bag 09/May/08 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 09/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Laurence Davis
Dan_Carroll 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Robinson 27/Aug/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/07 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/2007 -
Tom Vivian 31/Jul/06 2nd
Mark Kemball 09/Jul/06 AltLd
with Nic Dill
PaulTanton 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 01/May/06 Lead O/S
with Sinbad
sinbad 01/May/06 2nd
wojt ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/05 Lead
ewen ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/05 AltLd rpt
Hidden 08/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 01/May/05 -
feilx ??/2005 Lead O/S
with keith
Macca_7 03/Jul/04 Lead O/S

Led second pitch

with Barnaby Carver
Hidden 16/Apr/04 2nd
Paz ?/Jan/04 AltLd rpt
with TI
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/03 Lead
pezzerrr 13/Aug/03 Lead O/S
cem 18/Jul/03 Lead rpt
with Sally Dipple
Hidden 26/May/03 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 25/May/03 AltLd
with Norman Wright
William Robertson ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Emily
Samuel P 17/Nov/02 2nd
with Luke
andy_pemberton ?/Dec/01 AltLd
with Steve Gooberman Hill, Katharine Pemberton
Hidden 16/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd
Hidden 02/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
stuart100 22/May/00 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
cem 21/Apr/00 2nd
jfletcher 19/Mar/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/00 -
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
chris sm 23/May/98 Lead O/S
michael burrows 30/Jul/97 2nd
with steve swygart
GAtkins 08/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with David Trelawney-Ross
pete johnson ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Hughie
Martin Bennett 12/Apr/93 -
with SF
Mick King 09/Apr/93 Lead
with John Hudson
clark alston ??/1993 Lead O/S

1st pitch only.

with Dick Hanson
Hidden 10/Oct/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/91 Lead
charlesmfrench 28/Jul/85 Lead O/S
keefe 30/Aug/84 -
malc 10/Apr/84 2nd dog
Norman_P_W 29/May/82 AltLd
Mike Owen 09/Aug/80 Solo rpt
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with Others, FMC
Mike Owen 22/Jul/79 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
Hidden ?/Dec/78 Lead
Simon cook ??/1977 -
Nigel Bond 22/Jun/75 AltLd
with Ian Duckworth
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 42
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set