Rockfax Description
A nice route, making the most of the pleasant rock on the rib, and avoids the vegetation in the grooves. Start at a detached block leaning against the main crag.
1) 26m. Climb up over the block and follow a chimney to a tricky move left to a ledge. Scramble back and left to belay in the corner.
2) 20m. Move right to gain the rib proper and follow it until a belay in the right-hand groove can be reached.
3) 30m. Gain the arete on the left which is followed to a groove and then the top. © Rockfax

1.97e+03 Jan/1997

NickNixon 08/Apr Lead O/S

Loved it. Cruise climbing. Threw in a cheeky heel hook to show off to the zero crowds that were watching. Perfect peaceful climbing.

with Henry Crosby
Meinertzhagen 30/Aug/16 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch. Would not recommend this route. The climbing wasn't hard but It was exposed and vegetated with loose rock. There was very little gear on the second pitch unless you go off route. Could not find any gear for an anchor on the grassy ledge (stay on the rock, the grassy ledge is steep and slippy with loose rock) so set up on the rocky ledge to the left where there is a nice flake that you can put a sling around on the bare looking face behind and above the ledge.

with Christopher Lyus
JonesE 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Pitch one poorly protected, next 2 pitches better protection and climbing. Led all 3 pitches.

with Jamie Eva
J.Eva 03/Oct/15 Lead G/U
Purely 04/Jul/15 AltLd

Led first and third. Great fun if a little sparse on the gear at times.

with Mat Adams
Hidden 06/Jun/15 -
brian watson 06/Jun/15 AltLd
JdotP 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

P1 (shared with adjacent V.Diff.) quite wet and grassy, otherwise good situations and good rock - if you stay on the arete until you are very nearly at the top you can avoid virtually all the grass save for that on P1. Belay at top of P2 is massive spike. Gear sometimes spaced but ok, steepest section of rib hard for severe.

with Anita Wilczynska, Magda Borkowska
Roch 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Had the crag to ourselves on a gorgeous sunny day. Scrambled up to Pen y Ole Wyn and down to the Ogwen tea shack.

with Carrie
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead
John Roe 05/Oct/13 2nd

Martin led all

with Martin Coleman
cactus111 30/Aug/13 AltLd

Nice grip, but some serious exposure. Also best avoided when not too cloudy because the cloud decends here fast!

with robin harris
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Karlos 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Don't know what the other folk are on about. It's a really nice route. Lots of gear, all solid rock, excellent position. But stay and belay on the route, makes for a more continuous climb.

Ian Archer 09/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Nice climb, not that loose or grassy. Excellent friction.

Hidden 16/Aug/12 AltLd
0ddba11 10/Aug/12 Lead

Loose, chossy, muddy, and bugger all gear. Lead it all; 2nd and 3rd as one (suggested belays rubbish, just stick to the rib). 1st pitch horrible, good climbing on the rib for the second two.

lcullum7 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 which was OK. P2 is by far the best and P3 is even more chossy than the first!

SarahA 26/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
Roger Cruse 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Kris & Clare D
mike_uk82 03/May/10 AltLd

Great P2, Poor P1 and P3, too much grass, Not worth a star. Great veiws though.

jezb1 03/May/10 AltLd

P2 good, other two dire. Very cold.

Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Bram 25/Nov/08 Lead
fizzychewitt 21/Sep/08 AltLd

Fantastic route

with Francis
Darrel 02/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Dave
Whealiebob 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, excellent exposed climbing on the rib itself!

with Darrel
Scouse Phil 26/Jan/08 2nd dnf

Fell off Several times and didn't finish

with Dave King
djking1983 25/Jan/08 Lead
Hopevalleypaul ??/2003 AltLd dnf
with Mike C
nigehughes ?/Feb/99 AltLd
with Ed (wee Ed) Jones
babymoac 25/Nov/95 -

Rained off after pitch 2 - having already backed off Kirkus's route in the wet (K route did only get S in the 1975 guide we had with us so seemed a fair bet in the damp...)

with Ian F
3 users have this on their wishlist
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set