UKC

75m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic and very popular route. From the entrance into the woods, walk up to the buttress. Up and right is the Micah Eliminate start - go left and scramble up right to a slab.
1) 4a, 25m. Climb a crack on the right-hand side of the slab to join Micah Eliminate just after it exits the gully. Climb the crack in a short steep wall to a ledge. Step down to a small sloping ledge and foot traverse left under a steepening to a groove/crack. Climb a crack on the right to a ledge and traverse left to a belay on the edge of the buttress by a hollow tree and a large flake.
2) 4a,15m. Move left and stand up on the flake and head up into the groove. Step left onto a nose of rock and move up on small but positive holds. As the holds run out, step left towards a chimney and pull up on good holds to a ledge. Climb cracks to a long ledge, arrange gear here and traverse left to a corner at the end of the ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner for 3m, span left to a jug and swing round the arete. Continue left to a small ledge and head up in the same line to spikes and a better ledge above. Climb the polished wall above aiming for the base of the groove. Once in the groove, move onto the right arete and climb this to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A much-ascended classic taking the easiest line up Plum Buttress.

Ticklists

Dear Santa , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Tis the season , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , AMC Uni Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , UWTSD Rock , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist , British Rock Tour April '24

Feedback

User Date Notes
maddinaish1 15 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Spent some time deciding whether to go up from the left or right, and decided on left as that is what it looked like from the guidebook but once at the first tree wondered whether we should have gone from the right.
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βeta: Spent some time deciding whether to go up from the left or right, and decided on left as that is what it looked like from the guidebook but once at the first tree wondered whether we should have gone from the right.
PaulinEE 14 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Found a nut at the start on 12/8, happy to post it back if you let me know what you are missing. Brilliant route :-) Duncan let it and just grateful to find dry rock
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found a nut at the start on 12/8, happy to post it back if you let me know what you are missing. Brilliant route :-) Duncan let it and just grateful to find dry rock
THE.WALRUS 30 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Felt quite hard and committing for the grade. Also requires careful rope work to avoid tangles and drag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt quite hard and committing for the grade. Also requires careful rope work to avoid tangles and drag.
Kam_Dr 8 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb Led p1. James led p2 and p3 of Micah Eliminate
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb Led p1. James led p2 and p3 of Micah Eliminate

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 237
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 210
Votes cast 216
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Gully

Grade: S ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)

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