Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A classic and very popular route. From the entrance into the woods, walk up to the buttress. Up and right is the Micah Eliminate start - go left and scramble up right to a slab.
1) 4a, 25m. Climb a crack on the right-hand side of the slab to join Micah Eliminate just after it exits the gully. Climb the crack in a short steep wall to a ledge. Step down to a small sloping ledge and foot traverse left under a steepening to a groove/crack. Climb a crack on the right to a ledge and traverse left to a belay on the edge of the buttress by a hollow tree and a large flake.
2) 4a,15m. Move left and stand up on the flake and head up into the groove. Step left onto a nose of rock and move up on small but positive holds. As the holds run out, step left towards a chimney and pull up on good holds to a ledge. Climb cracks to a long ledge, arrange gear here and traverse left to a corner at the end of the ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner for 3m, span left to a jug and swing round the arete. Continue left to a small ledge and head up in the same line to spikes and a better ledge above. Climb the polished wall above aiming for the base of the groove. Once in the groove, move onto the right arete and climb this to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A much-ascended classic taking the easiest line up Plum Buttress.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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maddinaish1 | 15 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: Spent some time deciding whether to go up from the left or right, and decided on left as that is what it looked like from the guidebook but once at the first tree wondered whether we should have gone from the right. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Spent some time deciding whether to go up from the left or right, and decided on left as that is what it looked like from the guidebook but once at the first tree wondered whether we should have gone from the right. |
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PaulinEE | 14 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Found a nut at the start on 12/8, happy to post it back if you let me know what you are missing. Brilliant route :-) Duncan let it and just grateful to find dry rock | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Found a nut at the start on 12/8, happy to post it back if you let me know what you are missing. Brilliant route :-) Duncan let it and just grateful to find dry rock |
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THE.WALRUS | 30 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Felt quite hard and committing for the grade. Also requires careful rope work to avoid tangles and drag. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt quite hard and committing for the grade. Also requires careful rope work to avoid tangles and drag. |
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Kam_Dr | 8 Dec, 2021 |
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βeta: Great climb Led p1. James led p2 and p3 of Micah Eliminate | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great climb Led p1. James led p2 and p3 of Micah Eliminate |
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Grade: S ***
(Clogwyn y Ddysgl)