UKC

54m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A string of superb and intense pitches make up for the rather wandering line. Start at a thin line of weakness in the wall just right of the low-angled corner groove.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb the wall and thin cracks directly to a tricky exit onto a large belay ledge next to a thorny bush.
2) 4b, 12m. Take a good crack in a corner to a roof at its top and pull around this on the right to another good belay ledge.
3) 6m. Walk left along a narrow grassy ledge to a belay below a thin black seam, as for Venusburg.
4) 4c, 18m. Move up right to the base of a steep corner and climb this with difficulty to a horizontal break that can be followed rightwards across the wall to a belay on its edge.
4a) Anvil Chorus Direct Finish, HVS 5a. A good variation which follows the crack system that rises from midway across the traverse to the top.
5) 4b, 8m. Move up left to a break and climb the thin crack above to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , West Country Climbs , Work Hard, Play Hard , UK Classic Corners , CUMC Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Memorable Climbs , South West Classic VS's , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Dan’s Delights , 2023 , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon , Cornwall - October 2023 , Llidberis South West Tour , Road to lundy

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User Date Notes
dpalmer1961 1 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Belay at top of the crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay at top of the crack
Salvo1 6 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome. Tried leading the 3rd crack/traverse pitch. All was going fine until l took too long placing a cam. One move away from finishing the crack. Pumped & took my 1st ever lead fall. Cam held so a good confidence builder. Rested, tried again but was too knackered. Retreated to belay where Andy Benham completed for me to follow.
Show beta
βeta: Awesome. Tried leading the 3rd crack/traverse pitch. All was going fine until l took too long placing a cam. One move away from finishing the crack. Pumped & took my 1st ever lead fall. Cam held so a good confidence builder. Rested, tried again but was too knackered. Retreated to belay where Andy Benham completed for me to follow.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 224
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 222
Votes cast 217
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wreckers' Slab

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Cornakey Cliff)

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