Rockfax Description
This extraordinary outing sees few ascents as a complete route. Some abseil in to attempt the iconic groove pitch on its own.
1) 6c, 25m. A great pitch up the wall.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse right along the break to the 'Paris' belay.
3) 6c, 18m. The groove starts smooth and wide and gets smoother and wider before a few holds appear and it eases slightly near the top.
4) 7a, 25m. For those who have climbed the groove, the disappointingly hard top pitch still needs to be done, although it is only desperate for a short section. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 8's & 9, Hardest routes in Britain, Bold Slate routes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, UK smearing corners

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ben Bouissou 30 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-)
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 1 Sep, 2019 Lead RP
Andy Peak 1 1 Sep, 2019 Lead RP Sport style groove pich only! one of the best days climbing iv ever had. Never a bad day in the big hole!
Sport style groove pich only! one of the best days climbing iv ever had. Never a bad day in the big hole!
Ben Bouissou 4 Jul, 2018 Lead Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-)
Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-)
Dan Arkle 22 Jun, 2018 Lead 1st, 2nd and 4th Pitch led. Sporty style on 1st, draws in, and medium sling on 2nd and 5th bolt.
1st, 2nd and 4th Pitch led. Sporty style on 1st, draws in, and medium sling on 2nd and 5th bolt.
Dan Arkle 19 May, 2018 Lead RP Groove Pitch only, sports style.
with soph
Groove Pitch only, sports style.
with soph
brices 3 Nov, 2017 Lead dog Abbed down in a cloud, with mild rain, the corner was sheltered but slipped off the smears right at the top having clipped the last bolt. The rain then got heavyer, one to come back for in better conditions
with remus
Abbed down in a cloud, with mild rain, the corner was sheltered but slipped off the smears right at the top having clipped the last bolt. The rain then got heavyer, one to come back for in better conditions
with remus
Hidden 3 Nov, 2017 TR dog
brices 31 Oct, 2017 Lead dog two working goes, then a lead attemp, came off at the full body bridge
with remus
two working goes, then a lead attemp, came off at the full body bridge
with remus
Hidden 31 Oct, 2017 TR dog
Andy Peak 1 20 Jul, 2017 TR dog In four from each rest, 1 in the grove from first bolt, 2 Standard off width with finger nail foot holds and dishes. 3 full body brige section from the good foot hold and family jewels move. 4 Easy top out from the good left hand sloper. Never bean so pleased just to do the moves on a route amazing position.
In four from each rest, 1 in the grove from first bolt, 2 Standard off width with finger nail foot holds and dishes. 3 full body brige section from the good foot hold and family jewels move. 4 Easy top out from the good left hand sloper. Never bean so pleased just to do the moves on a route amazing position.
Hidden 31 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
Ed Booth 23 Mar, 2016 TR Groove pitch only. Did in oner from the good foothold in the grove at start, so basically a oner. On lead attempts next time i think.
Groove pitch only. Did in oner from the good foothold in the grove at start, so basically a oner. On lead attempts next time i think.
Hidden ??, 2016 -
i_a_coops 17 Oct, 2015 Lead dnf Led pitch 1 clean (with the slings still in place) for completeness.
with Misha
Led pitch 1 clean (with the slings still in place) for completeness.
with Misha
i_a_coops 11 Oct, 2015 AltLd RP One off the bucket list. Did it as a sport route with some slings on bolts. Seconded P1 and led all the other pitches in one push after several days checking the whole thing out. 7c+, 7b, Hard Very Groovy, 7c/+. Whoever voted 'no stars' has no taste!
with Robbie
One off the bucket list. Did it as a sport route with some slings on bolts. Seconded P1 and led all the other pitches in one push after several days checking the whole thing out. 7c+, 7b, Hard Very Groovy, 7c/+. Whoever voted 'no stars' has no taste!
with Robbie
Ed Booth 14 Mar, 2012 TR dog Just the groove. Hard. Got all the moves but lots of resting! will be back!
with Ben Alsford
Just the groove. Hard. Got all the moves but lots of resting! will be back!
with Ben Alsford
58 users have this on their wishlist
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