Rockfax Description
This extraordinary outing sees few ascents as a complete route. Some abseil in to attempt the iconic groove pitch on its own. Immortalised rather flamboyantly by Johnny Dawes in the Stone Monkey Video.
1) 6c, 25m. A great pitch up the wall.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse right along the break to the Paris belay.
3) 6c, 18m. The iconic groove starts smooth and wide and gets smoother and wider before a few holds appear and it eases slightly near the top.
4) 7a, 25m. For those who have climbed the groove the disappointedly hard top pitch still needs to be done, although it is only desperate for a short section. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 8's & 9, Hardest routes in Britain, Bold Slate routes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Andy Peak 1 20/Jul TR dog

In four from each rest, 1 in the grove from first bolt, 2 Standard off width with finger nail foot holds and dishes. 3 full body brige section from the good foot hold and family jewels move. 4 Easy top out from the good left hand sloper. Never bean so pleased just to do the moves on a route amazing position.

anguskille 31/Mar/16 Lead RP

Groove pitch only. Mega! I was trying to find an excuse not to tie-in but I'm glad I went for it in the end. Absolutely exhausting! Extended the last bold to avoid nasty fall.

Ed Booth 23/Mar/16 TR

Groove pitch only. Did in oner from the good foothold in the grove at start, so basically a oner. On lead attempts next time i think.

Hidden ??/2016 -
i_a_coops 17/Oct/15 Lead dnf

Led pitch 1 clean (with the slings still in place) for completeness.

with Misha
i_a_coops 11/Oct/15 AltLd RP

One off the bucket list. Did it as a sport route with some slings on bolts. Seconded P1 and led all the other pitches in one push after several days checking the whole thing out. 7c+, 7b, Hard Very Groovy, 7c/+. Whoever voted 'no stars' has no taste!

with Robbie
Ed Booth 14/Mar/12 TR dog

Just the groove. Hard. Got all the moves but lots of resting! will be back!

with Ben Alsford
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Voting
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Toproped
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set