18m.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route - a 7b+ chimney into a hard and sustained headwall. Some will walk up the slot, others will just be totally shut down by it, and vice-versa with the headwall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of many gems left scattered around, courtesy of Yorkshires finest acid folk DJ. Ascend the obvious hanging groove past numerous bolts, pull the roof out L and finish up the energy sapping crack.

Slightly obnoxious but so much fun - very Smith.
Think working on a building site

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Classic UK F7s, Top class slate sport 7b-8a, a State of Slate, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7c & 7c+, Slate Sport, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rock cats getting strong

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
wolf.leeb 23 Feb Lead dnf jeeesus.. crazy shapes.. i think i want to go back but not sure why.. bottom of flake / groove is moving when laying back and 3rd and 4th bolts need replacing to protect crux. infact just climb manic strain instead, its got holds.
with dj greg
jeeesus.. crazy shapes.. i think i want to go back but not sure why.. bottom of flake / groove is moving when laying back and 3rd and 4th bolts need replacing to protect crux. infact just climb manic strain instead, its got holds.
with dj greg
WilliamRupp 19 Nov, 2018 Lead dog pretty hard. knee pads would help but would be cheaty
pretty hard. knee pads would help but would be cheaty
James Beaumont 5 Nov, 2018 Lead dog
with Max
with Max
elyben 22 Jul, 2018 TR dnf
Dan Arkle 2 Jun, 2018 Lead dog spanked. Groove ok, roof hard. This might have the most dnfs on slate?
spanked. Groove ok, roof hard. This might have the most dnfs on slate?
Andy Peak 1 2 Jun, 2018 TR Struggling a bit at the top of the groov, did the crux move 4 times convincingly and upper crack in two
Struggling a bit at the top of the groov, did the crux move 4 times convincingly and upper crack in two
countchalkula 5 May, 2018 TR dnf
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf
wi11 27 May, 2016 TR dnf Fell pulling round the roof
with Frank C
Fell pulling round the roof
with Frank C
Andy Peak 1 4 May, 2016 Lead dog As hard as hell but pleased I can get into the grove, work on the crux proper next time.
As hard as hell but pleased I can get into the grove, work on the crux proper next time.
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 20 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
i_a_coops 15 Oct, 2015 Lead RP First redpoint. Think I've found my calling - why are there not more bolted frictionless chimneys out there?
First redpoint. Think I've found my calling - why are there not more bolted frictionless chimneys out there?
quiffhanger 14 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Continued to fall off the top crack multiple times. It's easy when you've rested on the rope. Hard when your core is shot and you're heart rate is approaching 200 bpm. Need to get fitter (in the conventional sense, not the climbing sense).
with Rachel
Continued to fall off the top crack multiple times. It's easy when you've rested on the rope. Hard when your core is shot and you're heart rate is approaching 200 bpm. Need to get fitter (in the conventional sense, not the climbing sense).
with Rachel
jonleighton 13 Jun, 2015 Lead dog The fourth bolt on this looks pretty dodgy to me (it moved when I tugged it...) It wouldn't be a ground fall if it came out though.
The fourth bolt on this looks pretty dodgy to me (it moved when I tugged it...) It wouldn't be a ground fall if it came out though.
quiffhanger 13 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Fell off the top crack on my final RP. Thought it would go the next day...
with Rachel
Fell off the top crack on my final RP. Thought it would go the next day...
with Rachel
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
James Beaumont 23 May, 2015 TR dnf got the crazy headjam move, but ended up dogging more than i climbed
got the crazy headjam move, but ended up dogging more than i climbed
Hidden 15 May, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 12 May, 2015 Lead dnf
quiffhanger 4 May, 2015 Lead dog Awesome. Worked out the moves - super psyched to go back with fresh legs and see if I can do it clean.
with Rachel
Awesome. Worked out the moves - super psyched to go back with fresh legs and see if I can do it clean.
with Rachel
Hidden 15 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
James Smith 15 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf What an introduction to slate! Heavily dogged and couldn't make it out of the groove into the top crack. Exhausting!
with tom p, jack g
What an introduction to slate! Heavily dogged and couldn't make it out of the groove into the top crack. Exhausting!
with tom p, jack g
HAJ Francis 4 Apr, 2014 Lead RP First 7c, great fun, interesting moves the all the way to the top!!
First 7c, great fun, interesting moves the all the way to the top!!
Tom Seccombe 2 Dec, 2012 Lead dnf
Michael Allday 6 Nov, 2011 Lead dog need 2 do it clean next time
with John beecham
need 2 do it clean next time
with John beecham
lx 25 Aug, 2011 Lead awesome route. Feels quite hard for 7c but not done much on slate so don't know. 4th bolt was a bit loose, can pull it out about 1cm, (with full body weight pulling out on it).
with alison
awesome route. Feels quite hard for 7c but not done much on slate so don't know. 4th bolt was a bit loose, can pull it out about 1cm, (with full body weight pulling out on it).
with alison
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2011 Lead dnf Someone forgot to attach the big holds...
with Shinta Osawa
Someone forgot to attach the big holds...
with Shinta Osawa
Hidden 11 Sep, 2010 TR dog
eddy-on-the-rocks 1 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf Amazing. A bit of water in the top is my excuse. Nothing to do with the huge amount of energy to make one microns progress of course.
with Rich
Amazing. A bit of water in the top is my excuse. Nothing to do with the huge amount of energy to make one microns progress of course.
with Rich
JulesV 31 May, 2010 TR dog
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
TomPR 15 Apr, 2010 - Classic thrutching. So good.
Classic thrutching. So good.
TomPR ?Apr, 2010 -
farmus21 27 Mar, 2010 TR So hard...so fun
with Herve Nuttall, Mikey Goldthorpe
So hard...so fun
with Herve Nuttall, Mikey Goldthorpe
Brown 17 Oct, 2009 Lead dnf Fully bolted at F7c and nails
with Pete
Fully bolted at F7c and nails
with Pete
63 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set