Rockfax Description
10m. Climb the shallow groove precariously on sloping holds to reach the overhang and runners, including a fat thread. Climb direct or slightly right to finish. The escape out right is a cop-out, otherwise the route is high in the grade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Once you have mastered the E1 entry groove (!) try the Ali Baba finish before you pump out, a cheeky rest round the corner is normal.

Ticklists

NYMoors Classics, Ultimate E2 ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Chris Shorter 16 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I believe the line described is the way Tony Marr did it - finishing up the right edge - it's the way I have always done it. Paul Ingham finished up the middle of the face off an undercut.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I believe the line described is the way Tony Marr did it - finishing up the right edge - it's the way I have always done it. Paul Ingham finished up the middle of the face off an undercut.
IanJackson 31 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best routes in the area. ***
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best routes in the area. ***
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 5 Aug -
nick ferro 3 Aug TR Nice moves up the big sharp pocket on the overhang. Then rested on rope as I could not find the sequence. Used a monster reach with left hand to the top using right hand in the pocket. Belly flop top.
Nice moves up the big sharp pocket on the overhang. Then rested on rope as I could not find the sequence. Used a monster reach with left hand to the top using right hand in the pocket. Belly flop top.
Hidden 1 Jul Lead
Whistle 21 Jun TR β
MartinJWood 20 Jun TR β
with Jo Banner, Katy Banner
with Jo Banner, Katy Banner
Hidden 21 Mar TR rpt
Ginopereira 26 Feb - Top roped this a few times. I could not get past the grove!! Il get it next time!!!!!
with Jason wood
Top roped this a few times. I could not get past the grove!! Il get it next time!!!!!
with Jason wood
zoe.louise94 ?Aug, 2018 2nd
Hidden 15 Jul, 2018 TR RP
Stroppy 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Superb climbing in two contrasting styles
Superb climbing in two contrasting styles
Jmpollard 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Quality climbing and a great position at the top.
Quality climbing and a great position at the top.
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 2nd
sarah hawker 3 Jun, 2017 TR dnf Definitely a work in progress!
with mariner
Definitely a work in progress!
with mariner
Andrew Knight 30 May, 2017 2nd dog
chris smith 9 May, 2017 TR
Keith Swainson 1 Apr, 2017 Lead Seconded and lead Sesame previously so had the start groove wired. That said it's haunted me more than anything else on the moors and I'm made up to lead this clean. ***
with Georgie
Seconded and lead Sesame previously so had the start groove wired. That said it's haunted me more than anything else on the moors and I'm made up to lead this clean. ***
with Georgie
Anti-faff 27 Nov, 2016 Lead dnf Climbed the groove twice but couldn't make the final move to the break then got rained off (luckily!). Look forward to trying it again.
with Chris
Climbed the groove twice but couldn't make the final move to the break then got rained off (luckily!). Look forward to trying it again.
with Chris
Hidden 30 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
ESmith 28 Sep, 2016 TR O/S
with Adam Watson, Alpenglow, Alice Barton
with Adam Watson, Alpenglow, Alice Barton
Hidden 18 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Sep, 2016 -
manmike 7 Sep, 2016 TR
with all the lads
with all the lads
Hidden 7 Sep, 2016 -
GPN 5 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with net
with net
James Oakes 29 May, 2016 Lead rpt Good to repeat this. I reckon it's worth E3 5c just for the start! There really is no need for top roping on this route, especially with the rock being so soft. Please stop!
Good to repeat this. I reckon it's worth E3 5c just for the start! There really is no need for top roping on this route, especially with the rock being so soft. Please stop!
Puma 12 May, 2016 TR
Jamie Brown 12 May, 2016 TR dnf Well 'ard
with Puma
Well 'ard
with Puma
cpforbes 20 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
Gabe Oliver 20 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Faffed around a bit getting pumped at the overlap (semi-knee bar helped while resting) then eventually sacked up and made the move up onto the nose. Top out was surprisingly fine!
Faffed around a bit getting pumped at the overlap (semi-knee bar helped while resting) then eventually sacked up and made the move up onto the nose. Top out was surprisingly fine!
James Oswald ?Mar, 2016 TR O/S
with Ryn
with Ryn
Hidden 10 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
IanD353 8 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with Ailsa
with Ailsa
kyaizawa 5 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
Hidden 26 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
alexm198 11 Jun, 2014 TR dnf Great climbing up the groove, last move to the top is butch!
with Rob Law
Great climbing up the groove, last move to the top is butch!
with Rob Law
Hidden 3 May, 2014 2nd
Calum Wadsworth 24 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Dead chuffed! nearly slid off having belly flopped over the top. Ended up a shaky mess. Top route!
Dead chuffed! nearly slid off having belly flopped over the top. Ended up a shaky mess. Top route!
WNW 15 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 11 Jan, 2014 2nd β
robertmctague ??, 2014 Lead rpt
Matthew Ferrier 8 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Probably the most satisfied I've ever been after a climb having been rained off this umpteen times. Had a minor epic faffing with the chockstone and used zero technique at the top. Met Tony Marr and Mike Tooke afterwards which seemed a fitting way to round off this epic.
with My Mum
Probably the most satisfied I've ever been after a climb having been rained off this umpteen times. Had a minor epic faffing with the chockstone and used zero technique at the top. Met Tony Marr and Mike Tooke afterwards which seemed a fitting way to round off this epic.
with My Mum
cherad 11 May, 2013 TR O/S
with Louise Bell
with Louise Bell
Chris Reid 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2013 2nd dog
mikecollins 1 May, 2013 Lead
Sam Marks 4 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S I've looked at this route so many times, its the route that has most intimidated me on the moors for the last six months. Wow! now its done, over the moon but a little sad all the same. strangly i wasnt really thinking when i did the groove, but found the top section hard!
with Dan Lane, Jack Hodgson
I've looked at this route so many times, its the route that has most intimidated me on the moors for the last six months. Wow! now its done, over the moon but a little sad all the same. strangly i wasnt really thinking when i did the groove, but found the top section hard!
with Dan Lane, Jack Hodgson
Matt Harle 20 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 21 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Cool lower groove (no mats). But came close to messing up the top, as couldn't seem to find a sequence/holds and got quite pumped climbing up and down a few times. Great route
with Becky E
Cool lower groove (no mats). But came close to messing up the top, as couldn't seem to find a sequence/holds and got quite pumped climbing up and down a few times. Great route
with Becky E
Narked4fun ??, 2012 -
Anhibian 2 Aug, 2011 TR RP First day out climbing in UK. Fun route
with Simon Rees
First day out climbing in UK. Fun route
with Simon Rees
ritid 2 Aug, 2011 TR dnf pumpy route, well tired after trying route to the left lemming slab. sloper jugs
pumpy route, well tired after trying route to the left lemming slab. sloper jugs
Kane L. 1 Jul, 2011 TR dog Fourth attempt, couldn't grip the last hold and had to resort to using my rope. Not my cleanest ascent but an ascent non the less.
Fourth attempt, couldn't grip the last hold and had to resort to using my rope. Not my cleanest ascent but an ascent non the less.
Matthew Aumonier 1 Jul, 2011 TR O/S
with SiRees
with SiRees
mikecollins 19 May, 2011 TR rpt
SiRees 19 May, 2011 TR dog
chris smith 8 May, 2011 TR dog
joscott 8 May, 2011 TR
timlongs 22 Apr, 2011 TR
with Ben Ireland
with Ben Ireland
Danmurphyo ?Mar, 2011 -
Hidden 10 Oct, 2010 2nd
Dave Warburton 10 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt That Groove is still scary.
with dunnyg
That Groove is still scary.
with dunnyg
markfairbank 18 Aug, 2010 TR O/S Working up to the lead!
with Ian Moore
Working up to the lead!
with Ian Moore
Hidden 25 Jul, 2010 Lead β
S Lynch 25 Jul, 2010 -
hawkins321 24 Jul, 2010 TR O/S
with chris thompson
with chris thompson
Hidden 11 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
petegunn 11 Jul, 2010 Lead
with Steve Cas Davina
with Steve Cas Davina
stimpey 11 Jul, 2010 2nd dog
with Cas, Pete, Davina
with Cas, Pete, Davina
James Oakes 1 Jul, 2010 Lead RP **** the topout's dire!!! accidently went the wrong way to start with so lowered and started again.
**** the topout's dire!!! accidently went the wrong way to start with so lowered and started again.
braders94 1 Jul, 2010 2nd dog
Em66 16 Apr, 2010 2nd
with Franco
with Franco
Kane L. ??, 2010 TR dnf Mike said it was a good route, failed to mention its grade.
Mike said it was a good route, failed to mention its grade.
padski ??, 2010 -
SiRees ??, 2010 TR dog
with Sally Chisolm, Matt.L, mikecollins
with Sally Chisolm, Matt.L, mikecollins
padski ?Sep, 2009 Lead β
Robert Besford 12 Aug, 2009 Lead RP Scary!
with Dave Yardley
Scary!
with Dave Yardley
Robert Besford 9 Aug, 2009 TR RP Loved the line can't wait to lead it. No hands rest to have a look at the view, fantastic.
with Dan Iceton
Loved the line can't wait to lead it. No hands rest to have a look at the view, fantastic.
with Dan Iceton
Russell Lovett 9 Aug, 2009 TR β
with gede gibons
with gede gibons
craigruddock 27 May, 2009 TR RP
mikecollins 27 May, 2009 TR β
with manmike
with manmike
Solcambs 3 May, 2009 TR dnf No steam left for the final moves but the most amazing line - had to have a go after playing on the bottom moves and just being inspired to try! Almost, but no cigar, and definately right at the limit of my physical and technical ability!
with nr
No steam left for the final moves but the most amazing line - had to have a go after playing on the bottom moves and just being inspired to try! Almost, but no cigar, and definately right at the limit of my physical and technical ability!
with nr
nr 3 May, 2009 TR
Franco Cookson ??, 2009 Solo As the most intimidating flank of the Wainstones, soloing it is the obvious willy-waving solution.
As the most intimidating flank of the Wainstones, soloing it is the obvious willy-waving solution.
Ram MkiV 10 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S initial groove pretty hard and pretty scary! rest's a path...
with Tom & Carl
initial groove pretty hard and pretty scary! rest's a path...
with Tom & Carl
Franco Cookson OLD 7 Jun, 2008 Lead
Hidden 15 May, 2008 Lead rpt
Franco Cookson OLD 6 May, 2008 Lead CMC meet. nice
with Big Ian
CMC meet. nice
with Big Ian
Franco Cookson OLD 3 May, 2008 Lead Led it twice more for the practice and for some film fotage. then soloed Sesame groove.
with Neil Cookson- My DAD
Led it twice more for the practice and for some film fotage. then soloed Sesame groove.
with Neil Cookson- My DAD
Franco Cookson OLD 16 Apr, 2008 Lead Brilliant! nice lower crux, balancy. Then a Bomber thread that protects the jug hauling and the crimp, if not a little run out. Led it twice for pictures and then seconded dooge- good workout! Grade?- runout but pretty safe. 5b moves. Pumpy as hell. I'd say two 5b moves -like west sphinx, but more strenous and harder to work out without down-climbing-E3?
Brilliant! nice lower crux, balancy. Then a Bomber thread that protects the jug hauling and the crimp, if not a little run out. Led it twice for pictures and then seconded dooge- good workout! Grade?- runout but pretty safe. 5b moves. Pumpy as hell. I'd say two 5b moves -like west sphinx, but more strenous and harder to work out without down-climbing-E3?
Dave Warburton 16 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S Not really onsight, as Franco had just led it so i knew it was possible and that it was just 'jug pullin' but a good climb non the less. THAT groove! Eeek.
Not really onsight, as Franco had just led it so i knew it was possible and that it was just 'jug pullin' but a good climb non the less. THAT groove! Eeek.
IanJackson 10 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with Luke Hunt
with Luke Hunt
Sankey 27 Aug, 2006 2nd dog
Northen Vince 27 Dec, 2005 Lead dnf Fell out of the top of the grove and broke my right heel. It was a long limp/crawl back to the car. Luckely I wasn't driving. 6 weeks in a cast and 8 weeks total on crutches. I will have to try harder next time.
with Zoe
Fell out of the top of the grove and broke my right heel. It was a long limp/crawl back to the car. Luckely I wasn't driving. 6 weeks in a cast and 8 weeks total on crutches. I will have to try harder next time.
with Zoe
Small and weak ?Jul, 2003 TR
manmike ?Jun, 2003 TR
with all the lads
with all the lads
Roget 19 Sep, 1998 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
teespaddler ??, 1998 - Top rope impossible to protect really.
with owain jones
Top rope impossible to protect really.
with owain jones
Steve Crowe 3 Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden 26 May, 1991 TR
Hidden 13 May, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 May, 1987 -
Rich Kirby ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
charlesmfrench ??, 1985 2nd
Hidden 2 Apr, 1979 Lead O/S
cenotaphcorner ??, 1974 2nd O/S
with Paul Ingham
with Paul Ingham
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set