Rockfax Description
Climb the small wall right of centre using undercuts (good cam) and poor holds to reach easier ground by a long stretch. Finish rapidly up the final wall. Much harder for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Don Barr 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500.

stevo smith 23/Apr Lead

Fell on Onsight from the under-cut. Cam held and tried a couple more times before lowering off... One for next time.

with Chris B.
Andy Fielding 09/Apr TR
goddamm7 09/Apr TR RP
Hidden 28/Mar TR
Hidden 04/Feb TR
Graeme Hammond 07/Nov/16 Lead RP

Flashed on TR but then found a better (for me) and completely different sequence which I used on the lead. Still not sure if I should have tried to O/S.

with Andy G
Andy Peak 1 07/Nov/16 -
Andy Peak 1 07/Nov/16 Lead rpt

Nice to finish this off, that crimp in the wall really is very small.

Andy Moles 04/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Silvestre
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 30/Oct/16 Lead

Cruxy move!

harry.morrish 29/Oct/16 TR RP
harry.morrish 15/Oct/16 2nd dog
James Oakes 15/Oct/16 Lead β
with Lucy Bradbury, Harry Morrish
pete1993 15/Oct/16 Lead dog

oops, fucked it

with Dom
Felix la shat 23/Sep/16 Lead β
with Louis
dom94 22/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Eloise
Deezel65 10/Feb/16 TR O/S

Sequence enough was easy to see, unfortunately with my rubbish reach I couldn't make it to the big Sloper at the crux so had to use the tiny finger pocket below it then cross hands to reach the Sloper which made it feel very hard at 6a - cool little route though and hope to get back and lead it soon.

with Mike Hukins
admackie 10/Jan/16 Lead O/S


Sam Marks 25/Nov/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/15 TR RP
MSchobitz 31/May/15 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 31/May/15 Lead O/S

I was a sketchy mess, placed a fairly dubious directional wire in the higher break with the good underpull in it. Then kept trying to put a high right foot on that kept pinging off. Eventually got up shaking like a leaf the whole way. Gave myself a stern talking to at the top..

with micki
amccann 27/May/15 Solo O/S
Climbster 24/May/15 Lead O/S
with Vick, Ian
Bloke on a Rope 24/May/15 Lead O/S

On a roll today! Was most disappointed with how poor the flatty in the middle of the face was where I hit it, very nearly dropped it. But a quick shuffle right and it improves.

with Vic, Matt
Cake 14/Mar/15 Lead G/U

Second go. Bomber gear right

with Matt
g1m147 01/Feb/15 TR
Matt Groom ??/2015 Lead

I had to use the awful crimp as I was too short to reach from the undercut.

with Alex McCann
dan_o_b ??/2015 TR O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 20/Dec/14 Lead G/U


with Roisin
Andy Peak 1 03/Dec/14 TR

Failed on lead, top roped to se actually how hard it is, amazed me i cud actually do it, a bit gutted i didnt try the move.

benkelsey 29/Oct/14 2nd O/S

much easier if you use the cam slot even though I'm not long

Nick1812P 29/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, but quite soft.

with Ben
leeds_belle 22/Jun/14 2nd dnf

Hard, incredibly reachy move in the middle. A bit beyond me at the minute!

with Will
will9911 ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 21/Apr/14 2nd
with al
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead
Tithe Technique 13/Apr/14 2nd dog
Jackwd 13/Apr/14 Lead RP

First E3 preplaced gear! Hard for shorty like me!

tatz45 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Pembroke
alp79 14/Dec/13 TR dnf

Moves were too hard for me even on TR.

ashtond6 14/Dec/13 TR

gear wasn't as good as expected, very worn pocket, when I tried on lead the cam twisted out!

Hidden 18/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 18/Oct/13 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Took ages to find the nerve to get going on this, and there's one more sketchier move after the crux. Felt pretty solid at E3 for me although it was a warm August day. Gear placement is good although looks like it's had quite a battering.

Stoney Boy 23/May/13 Lead β
RM199 13/Mar/13 TR dog
Matt Cooke 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
joemallia 06/May/12 2nd dnf

Hmm; second disappointment - another poor choice for a short guy. Fidel made the move after a rest on the rope, and finished the route.

with Katy Whittaker, Fidel Sciamanna
Hidden 08/Apr/12 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead rpt
mark20 24/Feb/12 Lead β

On Liam's gear

Hidden 24/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/11 2nd dog
Mike_Hayes 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead β
pie_eater_pete 10/Apr/11 Lead
Jonathan Hall 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Felt like a pretty tough move, sucks to be short for this one! There is a reasonable small slider placement to be found as well...

john lynch 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ed Austin, Lewis Andrew
disturbed_one51 02/Apr/11 2nd
with Wee man
Ben1983 19/Mar/11 Lead β

Led with first two bits of gear already in.

Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 11/Apr/10 TR
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
with Burns
Hidden 29/Aug/09 TR dog
Hidden 21/Jun/09 TR
Hidden 21/Jun/09 TR dog
liamoloughlin 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Shauna 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Jules
harvie 25/Feb/09 Lead β
robbo 19/Nov/08 Lead RP

Great route. Real bottle tester after the crux move.

with Spencer
Pete Graham 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Luke Porter
mattyork2 01/May/08 Lead β

Well should have bought the old guide book for the E4 tick. One move wonder but really ebjoyed it, lockign down the crimper and delicately rocking up to latch flatty with my left from high footer -awesome. Unsure it is worth only E2, think E3 is fair.

with Steve Aherne
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
hamish2016 07/Oct/07 TR O/S
martin48 25/Sep/07 Lead dnf
with dave
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead RP
Hidden 10/May/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Brown 24/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Henry
chrishedgehog 16/Mar/06 TR O/S
with Dave from D.R.
Hidden 03/Aug/05 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/05 2nd
Alex Mason ?/Mar/05 Lead

first e4 quite a rubbish route really but good to do an E4 i hadnt even done e2 when i did this says a lot really! but did fall off the crux but straight bk on and did it

with tony holdsworth
Stone Muppet ??/2005 TR O/S
Iggy_B ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Simon Troop
adi bryant ??/2005 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead β

enjoyed this route. All crux beta unwillingly 'prized' from alex. first 'E4', though easier than all the 'proper' E3's i've done

with Alex Mason
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead β
Hidden 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15/Jan/03 Lead β

Pretty easy for E4!

Chris Reid ?/May/01 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/99 Solo O/S
Daniel Armitage 10/Sep/99 Lead RP
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Dave Edmunds
mattnuttall 24/Apr/93 Solo O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Tom V ??/1980 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 44
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set