12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the small wall right of centre using undercuts (good cam) and poor holds to reach easier ground by a long stretch. Finish rapidly up the final wall. Much harder for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Don Barr 1977

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500

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UserDateNotes
Brown 24 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Yorkshire E2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yorkshire E2
Iggy_B 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The moves after reaching the "ledge" are much less than 4c. E3 6a is fair but whilst it says E4 up here that's what I'm writing in my book ;) Would be a nice E4 if it had one or two more moves of 6a, or maybe if the first 1/3 wasn't a pathway. A good route nonetheless!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The moves after reaching the "ledge" are much less than 4c. E3 6a is fair but whilst it says E4 up here that's what I'm writing in my book ;) Would be a nice E4 if it had one or two more moves of 6a, or maybe if the first 1/3 wasn't a pathway. A good route nonetheless!
teddy 7 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah, this is a little gem of a microroute - take a friend 1. Would be 'old skool' E2 6a but I guess E3 6a might be fair due to the effective solo of some 4cish moves after the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah, this is a little gem of a microroute - take a friend 1. Would be 'old skool' E2 6a but I guess E3 6a might be fair due to the effective solo of some 4cish moves after the crux.
Chris Craggs 7 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Don't worry, it will get E3 in the next edition! Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't worry, it will get E3 in the next edition! Chris
Alex Mason 7 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: first e4 as well found it quite easy and safe fell first attempt got straight back on and waltz'd up it very nice first e4 but very soft touch not a great intro i dont think!
βeta?
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βeta: first e4 as well found it quite easy and safe fell first attempt got straight back on and waltz'd up it very nice first e4 but very soft touch not a great intro i dont think!
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: My first "E4", but I'd have to be honest and vote for E3 5c I think :( Still a great little route though, and solid gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first "E4", but I'd have to be honest and vote for E3 5c I think :( Still a great little route though, and solid gear.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
adi bryant 3 Jul TR
with Preet
with Preet
kempy7 12 May Lead O/S Sunny Sunday at Wharncliffe with chloe, Izzy and watkins. Good route, bold in the top section but fine if you keep your head. typifies "boulder problem in the sky"
Sunny Sunday at Wharncliffe with chloe, Izzy and watkins. Good route, bold in the top section but fine if you keep your head. typifies "boulder problem in the sky"
JCAshman 31 Mar Lead O/S Very cool micro route on tiny crimps
Very cool micro route on tiny crimps
NinaR 20 Mar 2nd dog
NinaR 20 Mar TR rpt
Tom Fullen 17 Mar Lead O/S Somehow I got persuaded to do this after promising myself an easy day. Easy climbing up to the gear but it soon turns hard, though still easy to down climb back to the ground if you need to reassess. Found it very difficult to work out the right sequence for the long reach but finally settled on one and it worked. Steady climbing and welcome gear above this
Somehow I got persuaded to do this after promising myself an easy day. Easy climbing up to the gear but it soon turns hard, though still easy to down climb back to the ground if you need to reassess. Found it very difficult to work out the right sequence for the long reach but finally settled on one and it worked. Steady climbing and welcome gear above this
iainJ 17 Mar Lead dnf Did the hard move, got hands on the jugs in the middle then fell off - unadvisable to do so if you like your ankles.
Did the hard move, got hands on the jugs in the middle then fell off - unadvisable to do so if you like your ankles.
josh12345 6 Jan 2nd
Hidden 6 Jan Lead
Matthew Ferrier 11 Oct, 2018 Sent O/S In my mind this was "a proper" 12 metres, and sustained all the way up. Felt very pleasant over two pads.
In my mind this was "a proper" 12 metres, and sustained all the way up. Felt very pleasant over two pads.
bryan61 8 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
with m meaney
with m meaney
Jmpollard 7 Sep, 2018 Lead G/U Fucking annoying. Down climbed to look for footholds and fell off the easy bit. Got it second go, just lanked it, rather than using the undercuts out left.
with Tom Penny
Fucking annoying. Down climbed to look for footholds and fell off the easy bit. Got it second go, just lanked it, rather than using the undercuts out left.
with Tom Penny
HarryBowyer 14 Jun, 2018 TR dog
hlegge 21 Apr, 2018 TR RP Decided to have a go. First couple of attempts didnt manage it. Had a lunch break and then realised with the use of a toe could pinch the feet together and got it! 5th ground up attempt... not sure will be confident leading it properly for a while.
with Sani
Decided to have a go. First couple of attempts didnt manage it. Had a lunch break and then realised with the use of a toe could pinch the feet together and got it! 5th ground up attempt... not sure will be confident leading it properly for a while.
with Sani
dominic lee 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
nathanlee 25 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S thin for two moves, would be a great highball with a different landing
thin for two moves, would be a great highball with a different landing
stevo smith 8 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf Fell off from undercut and where cam goes in. Felt better with friction and foot work, tho not to go. Better luck next time...
with Chris Britton
Fell off from undercut and where cam goes in. Felt better with friction and foot work, tho not to go. Better luck next time...
with Chris Britton
Dawn_K_B 2 Nov, 2017 2nd dog Found a crimpy way through the reach in the end!
Found a crimpy way through the reach in the end!
Teappleby 2 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S Good lesson in how short I am again. Crimpy crimpy.
Good lesson in how short I am again. Crimpy crimpy.
stevo smith 23 Apr, 2017 Lead Fell on Onsight from the under-cut. Cam held and tried a couple more times before lowering off... One for next time.
with Chris B.
Fell on Onsight from the under-cut. Cam held and tried a couple more times before lowering off... One for next time.
with Chris B.
Andy Fielding 9 Apr, 2017 TR
goddamm7 9 Apr, 2017 TR RP
Hidden 28 Mar, 2017 TR
Hidden 4 Feb, 2017 TR
Graeme Hammond 7 Nov, 2016 Lead RP Flashed on TR but then found a better (for me) and completely different sequence which I used on the lead. Still not sure if I should have tried to O/S.
Flashed on TR but then found a better (for me) and completely different sequence which I used on the lead. Still not sure if I should have tried to O/S.
Andy Peak 1 7 Nov, 2016 -
Andy Peak 1 7 Nov, 2016 Lead rpt Nice to finish this off, that crimp in the wall really is very small.
Nice to finish this off, that crimp in the wall really is very small.
Andy Moles 4 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ben Silvestre
with Ben Silvestre
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 30 Oct, 2016 Lead Cruxy move!
Cruxy move!
Hidden 29 Oct, 2016 TR RP
Hidden 15 Oct, 2016 2nd dog
James Oakes 15 Oct, 2016 Lead β
with Lucy Bradbury, harry.morrish
with Lucy Bradbury, harry.morrish
pete1993 15 Oct, 2016 Lead dog oops, fucked it
with dom94
oops, fucked it
with dom94
Hidden 23 Sep, 2016 Lead β
dom94 22 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Deezel65 10 Feb, 2016 TR O/S Sequence enough was easy to see, unfortunately with my rubbish reach I couldn't make it to the big Sloper at the crux so had to use the tiny finger pocket below it then cross hands to reach the Sloper which made it feel very hard at 6a - cool little route though and hope to get back and lead it soon.
with Mike Hukins
Sequence enough was easy to see, unfortunately with my rubbish reach I couldn't make it to the big Sloper at the crux so had to use the tiny finger pocket below it then cross hands to reach the Sloper which made it feel very hard at 6a - cool little route though and hope to get back and lead it soon.
with Mike Hukins
admackie 10 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S sketcho
with sopaz
sketcho
with sopaz
Sam Marks 25 Nov, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jun, 2015 TR RP
MSchobitz 31 May, 2015 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 31 May, 2015 Lead O/S I was a sketchy mess, placed a fairly dubious directional wire in the higher break with the good underpull in it. Then kept trying to put a high right foot on that kept pinging off. Eventually got up shaking like a leaf the whole way. Gave myself a stern talking to at the top..
I was a sketchy mess, placed a fairly dubious directional wire in the higher break with the good underpull in it. Then kept trying to put a high right foot on that kept pinging off. Eventually got up shaking like a leaf the whole way. Gave myself a stern talking to at the top..
amccann 27 May, 2015 Solo O/S
Climbster 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S On a roll today! Was most disappointed with how poor the flatty in the middle of the face was where I hit it, very nearly dropped it. But a quick shuffle right and it improves.
On a roll today! Was most disappointed with how poor the flatty in the middle of the face was where I hit it, very nearly dropped it. But a quick shuffle right and it improves.
Cake 14 Mar, 2015 Lead G/U Second go. Bomber gear right
Second go. Bomber gear right
g1m147 1 Feb, 2015 TR
Matt Groom ??, 2015 Lead I had to use the awful crimp as I was too short to reach from the undercut.
with Alex McCann
I had to use the awful crimp as I was too short to reach from the undercut.
with Alex McCann
dan_o_b ??, 2015 TR O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 20 Dec, 2014 Lead G/U snails
with Roisin
snails
with Roisin
Andy Peak 1 3 Dec, 2014 TR Failed on lead, top roped to se actually how hard it is, amazed me i cud actually do it, a bit gutted i didnt try the move.
Failed on lead, top roped to se actually how hard it is, amazed me i cud actually do it, a bit gutted i didnt try the move.
benkelsey 29 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S much easier if you use the cam slot even though I'm not long
much easier if you use the cam slot even though I'm not long
Nick1812P 29 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Nice route, but quite soft.
Nice route, but quite soft.
leeds_belle 22 Jun, 2014 2nd dnf Hard, incredibly reachy move in the middle. A bit beyond me at the minute!
Hard, incredibly reachy move in the middle. A bit beyond me at the minute!
will9911 ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 29 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 21 Apr, 2014 2nd
with Al Doig
with Al Doig
Hidden 21 Apr, 2014 Lead
Tithe Technique 13 Apr, 2014 2nd dog
with Jackwd
with Jackwd
Jackwd 13 Apr, 2014 Lead RP First E3 preplaced gear! Hard for shorty like me!
First E3 preplaced gear! Hard for shorty like me!
PTatts 8 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Chris Pembroke
with Chris Pembroke
Outdoorista 14 Dec, 2013 TR dnf Moves were too hard for me even on TR.
Moves were too hard for me even on TR.
ashtond6 14 Dec, 2013 TR gear wasn't as good as expected, very worn pocket, when I tried on lead the cam twisted out!
gear wasn't as good as expected, very worn pocket, when I tried on lead the cam twisted out!
Hidden 18 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 18 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with dunnyg
with dunnyg
deacondeacon 3 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Took ages to find the nerve to get going on this, and there's one more sketchier move after the crux. Felt pretty solid at E3 for me although it was a warm August day. Gear placement is good although looks like it's had quite a battering.
Took ages to find the nerve to get going on this, and there's one more sketchier move after the crux. Felt pretty solid at E3 for me although it was a warm August day. Gear placement is good although looks like it's had quite a battering.
Stoney Boy 23 May, 2013 Lead β
RM199 13 Mar, 2013 TR dog
Matt Cooke 1 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
joemallia 6 May, 2012 2nd dnf Hmm; second disappointment - another poor choice for a short guy. Fidel made the move after a rest on the rope, and finished the route.
with Katy Whittaker, Sink41
Hmm; second disappointment - another poor choice for a short guy. Fidel made the move after a rest on the rope, and finished the route.
with Katy Whittaker, Sink41
Hidden 8 Apr, 2012 TR O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2012 Lead rpt
hamer89 15 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
mark20 24 Feb, 2012 Lead β On Liam's gear
On Liam's gear
Hidden 24 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Oct, 2011 2nd dog
Mike_Hayes 10 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
with Sarah Marks
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Lead β
pie_eater_pete 10 Apr, 2011 Lead
Jonathan Hall 2 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Felt like a pretty tough move, sucks to be short for this one! There is a reasonable small slider placement to be found as well...
Felt like a pretty tough move, sucks to be short for this one! There is a reasonable small slider placement to be found as well...
john lynch 2 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ed Austin, Lewis Andrew
with Ed Austin, Lewis Andrew
disturbed_one51 2 Apr, 2011 2nd
Ben1983 19 Mar, 2011 Lead β Led with first two bits of gear already in.
Led with first two bits of gear already in.
Jonny_86 17 Apr, 2010 Lead β One committing move right next to bomber cam.
One committing move right next to bomber cam.
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 TR
stephenhartley ??, 2010 2nd
sishaw 29 Aug, 2009 TR dog One try then cleaned it. Poor protection and very bold top out
with PeakDJ
One try then cleaned it. Poor protection and very bold top out
with PeakDJ
Hidden 21 Jun, 2009 TR
Hidden 21 Jun, 2009 TR dog
liamoloughlin 26 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
harvie 25 Feb, 2009 Lead β
robbo 19 Nov, 2008 Lead RP Great route. Real bottle tester after the crux move.
with Spencer
Great route. Real bottle tester after the crux move.
with Spencer
Pete Graham 19 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Luke Porter
with Luke Porter
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
mattyork2 1 May, 2008 Lead β Well should have bought the old guide book for the E4 tick. One move wonder but really ebjoyed it, lockign down the crimper and delicately rocking up to latch flatty with my left from high footer -awesome. Unsure it is worth only E2, think E3 is fair.
with Steve Aherne
Well should have bought the old guide book for the E4 tick. One move wonder but really ebjoyed it, lockign down the crimper and delicately rocking up to latch flatty with my left from high footer -awesome. Unsure it is worth only E2, think E3 is fair.
with Steve Aherne
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
hamish2016 7 Oct, 2007 TR O/S
martin48 25 Sep, 2007 Lead dnf
with dave
with dave
Brian Rodgers 15 Sep, 2007 Lead RP
with Nick Hobbs
with Nick Hobbs
Hidden 10 May, 2007 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Brown 24 Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
with Henry
with Henry
chrishedgehog 16 Mar, 2006 TR O/S
with Dave from D.R.
with Dave from D.R.
JMarkW 3 Aug, 2005 Lead rpt
with Tyler
with Tyler
Hidden 3 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 May, 2005 2nd
Alex Mason ?Mar, 2005 Lead first e4 quite a rubbish route really but good to do an E4 i hadnt even done e2 when i did this says a lot really! but did fall off the crux but straight bk on and did it
with tony holdsworth
first e4 quite a rubbish route really but good to do an E4 i hadnt even done e2 when i did this says a lot really! but did fall off the crux but straight bk on and did it
with tony holdsworth
Stone Muppet ??, 2005 TR O/S
Iggy_B ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Simon Troop
with Simon Troop
adi bryant ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV ??, 2005 Lead β enjoyed this route. All crux beta unwillingly 'prized' from alex. first 'E4', though easier than all the 'proper' E3's i've done
with Alex Mason
enjoyed this route. All crux beta unwillingly 'prized' from alex. first 'E4', though easier than all the 'proper' E3's i've done
with Alex Mason
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 Lead β
Hidden 28 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15 Jan, 2003 Lead β Pretty easy for E4!
Pretty easy for E4!
Chris Reid ?May, 2001 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
tlr ??, 2000 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 1999 Solo O/S
Daniel Armitage 10 Sep, 1999 Lead RP
Jon Read ?Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
with Dave Edmunds
with Dave Edmunds
mattnuttall 24 Apr, 1993 Solo O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
David Slater 18 Aug, 1991 Lead
with Andrew Simon
with Andrew Simon
Tom V ??, 1980 -
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 47
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set