Rockfax Description
The superb but tough finger-crack in the right wall of the bay. Gain the top of the pedestal awkwardly and climb the leaning crack to crucial moves into a sloping niche. Exit steeply to easy but broken ground. © Rockfax

FAA. Reg Pillinger early 1960s. FFA. John Allen 1975 1962

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, The Millstone 'Streets', World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, WideBoyz Crack School, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, Millstone London roads and places (Not finished), James' Winter Grit ticklist.

Andy Moles 02/Jul Lead
with Dave Lyons Ewing
islandlynx 13/May Lead dog

Fell after trying (and failing) to place gear mid crux. Fool! Also kicked out my first nut to start the excitement early

CMoore 30/Apr Lead dog

Great route! probably hard E3! blind and hard sequence. would be much easier second go!

tunnah 30/Apr 2nd
Greg Cunningham 09/Apr Lead dog

Tough hard and blind 6a sequence with feet about 1 metre above good gear placed from an OK rest - in what universe is that E3? Brilliant climbing but definitely under-graded in my opinion.

with dan arkle
bwestwood 02/Apr 2nd dog
pie_eater_pete 02/Apr Lead
FlavioL1989 29/Aug/16 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 28/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Tried a few weeks previously but fell off then had to catch a train. Felt easier this time, but still really stiff.

Matt Cooke 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Dale Comley 06/Aug/16 2nd β
MichaelGallimore 30/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Desperate! Fell off before the crux, exhausted, then had to an down for the gear. Stunning climbing, can't wait to give it another go!

Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 18/Jun/16 2nd dog

So this is what top end e3 feels like! Made it to the final crux, but missed the crucial crimp first time round.

Andy Peak 1 03/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Upto the crux move at the top clean, pulled over the roof only to find the most hideous sloping ledge! probably one of the best routes in the peak. cant wait to finish it off

Hidden 29/May/16 Lead dog
Louishmouis 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
pearson9596 15/Aug/15 2nd rpt
quiffhanger 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Tough but brill e3 - full on gritstone experience packing a shed-load of climbing into 15m.

pearson9596 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Tor Nockles
Vnockles 11/Jul/15 2nd dog


with Mike Pearson
dominic lee 25/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hannes B 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Phil
KamilJ 19/Aug/14 2nd
with Dan
dannyboy83 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Kamil, Lena
lena.drapella 19/Aug/14 2nd dnf
Brannock 30/Jul/14 2nd
Duncan Campbell 11/Jun/14 2nd

Cheeky! Only just got this clean. Very good though

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 11/Jun/14 Lead
Si dH 16/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Pleased to get this clean even on second. Really hard. Good lead by Neil.

with Neil Furniss
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd
Apharri 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Feb/12 Lead RP
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
davesykes 28/Aug/11 2nd
with Badger
Luke Brooks 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Wild
thomasadixon 21/Jul/11 Lead dog

Nails moves at the crux.

with Mike, Becca
JulesV 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
cymjt ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Misha 17/Oct/10 Lead dog

Was pleased to get this clean to the half-decent rest below the crux bulge, which was a hard E2 in its own right. The blind crux featured what looked like decent holds that were tantalisingly out of reach. Took me a while to figure it out - a decisive layback was the way and turned out to be not that bad but it wasn't the crux... Hanging on a couple of fingerlocks with feet scrabbling for purchase, I quickly realised that getting onto the sloping ledge wasn't going to be easy. Managed to drop a #2 nut into the top finger crack before slumping on the gear. Ian lowered me to the resting spot and I repeated the process four or five times. Pretty much from the second go I had the sequence to the finger locks sussed but further progress seemed impossible. Got it eventually by hanging on to the top finger lock with the right hand and going for a pinch on the arete above with the left hand, then doing some sketchy feet manoeuvres to get on the sloping ledge. The successful attempt was from a rest on the rope just below the finger locks rather than from the resting ledge, which might have made that little bit of difference. This goes on the list of routes to repeat when I'm a bit better. I imagine knowing the crux sequence would make a fair bit of difference - hence wrote it up above! If this is what hard 6a is like, I've got some way to go to E5...

with Ian W
Hidden 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 22/Aug/10 2nd dog

damn hard work! none of the moves are too hard, there is just lots of them.

with James McHaffie
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 10/May/09 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
DanH9883 07/Apr/09 2nd
with Ed
eddy-on-the-rocks 07/Apr/09 Lead dog

Heather hell top out

with Dan
Boy ?/Apr/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Ram MkiV 25/Jul/08 Lead

couple of years since last lobbing off this, not far off an action replay today! a taxing battle, satisfying when i eventually got to the top.

with al & andy
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
dan gibson 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
AJ007 26/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Dan
Ram MkiV 24/Jun/06 Lead dog

Foolishly tried to redeem myself after failing on GOM and what d'ya know? blew this too! totally despo over that bulge trying to finger lock? layback? in really unhelpful peg pockets. 'savage street'

with Alex & Mick
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Chris Read
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Adrian Casey
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget 22/Jul/01 Lead rpt
with jon
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10/May/01 Lead O/S
with Jenny Ibbotson
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/98 Lead dog
clark alston ?/Jun/98 Lead dog
with Dick Hanson
Hidden 18/May/96 Lead dog
NickJH ?/Aug/93 Lead dog

One rest below the finger locks having over-extended to reach the pinch on the arete with the wrong hand.

with PMcAllister
Hidden 27/Jun/93 2nd
Hidden 24/May/93 Lead dog
Hidden 24/May/93 2nd
Hidden 24/May/93 2nd
ste_d 12/May/93 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 12/May/93 2nd O/S
Roget 08/May/93 Lead dog
with Jonathan T
Hidden ??/1993 -
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/92 AltLd
Steve Crowe 24/Jun/91 Lead G/U

one rest

Hidden ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
with Dave Barton
tapley 29/Jun/89 2nd
amstel 17/Sep/88 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/Sep/88 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/88 Lead dog
John Marsland 25/Jul/87 2nd
with Dave Soles
Dave Musgrove 17/Jun/87 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Billg 25/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
jon 14/Apr/87 -
with Ian, H
Bruce Kerr 10/Apr/87 Lead
with Sandra Graham
Hidden ??/1987 -
Eduardo Martinez ??/1987 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 12/Jun/86 Lead O/S

3 guys I met up with at Stoney Caff

with ANO Phil / Matt / Derek ?
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Mike Owen 18/Sep/85 Lead O/S
with Simon King
Hidden 29/Jun/85 2nd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Tom V ??/1984 -
charlesmfrench ??/1982 2nd O/S
with Ian Milne
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Mark Kemball 08/Nov/81 2nd
with Chris Calow
duncan ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 29
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set