28m.

Rockfax Description
The superb but tough finger-crack in the right wall of the bay. Gain the top of the pedestal awkwardly and climb the leaning crack to crucial moves into a sloping niche. Exit steeply to easy but broken ground. © Rockfax

FAA. Reg Pillinger early 1960s. FFA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, The Millstone 'Streets', World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, WideBoyz Crack School, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, Millstone London roads and places (Not finished), James' Winter Grit ticklist, DUMC Grit Gathering 2019, Bugs training

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Dan Arkle 17 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Really puzzling hard moves. Its not as straightforward as it looks. Nice new peg on the left before the roof.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really puzzling hard moves. Its not as straightforward as it looks. Nice new peg on the left before the roof.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hannes B 30 Jun Lead rpt
dom94 6 Jun Lead O/S Such a good route. Felt really good on it today, top sequence from under the bulge to thank god jug just flowed brilliantly.
Such a good route. Felt really good on it today, top sequence from under the bulge to thank god jug just flowed brilliantly.
CharlieMack 26 May TR RP Tried leading this last year and backed off the crux as didn't have a lot of faith in my belayer. Went back today with Jack who was psyched. He had more faith but equally found the crux puzzling so we chucked a TR on it. It relented pretty quickly once I worked out to change my hands round. Will be back for the lead.
Tried leading this last year and backed off the crux as didn't have a lot of faith in my belayer. Went back today with Jack who was psyched. He had more faith but equally found the crux puzzling so we chucked a TR on it. It relented pretty quickly once I worked out to change my hands round. Will be back for the lead.
mattgrange 25 May 2nd dnf Ben took 4-5 decent sized lobs off the good gear (peg and small cam) below the bulge before roaring his way through. I couldn't even get half way up. It's flippin' 'ard.
Ben took 4-5 decent sized lobs off the good gear (peg and small cam) below the bulge before roaring his way through. I couldn't even get half way up. It's flippin' 'ard.
morganator 15 May Lead O/S Could quite easily have fallen off the start, the middle, or the top but got away with it. Kept telling myself it was E3 so there must be a reasonable way of doing it. E4 would seem fairer. Very safe
Could quite easily have fallen off the start, the middle, or the top but got away with it. Kept telling myself it was E3 so there must be a reasonable way of doing it. E4 would seem fairer. Very safe
Andy Peak 1 19 Apr Lead rpt Finally got up it, that crux section is excellent.
Finally got up it, that crux section is excellent.
James Oswald ?Apr Lead O/S Great route. Got tired pulling extra quickdraws and cams up for the crux. Fierce crux!
Great route. Got tired pulling extra quickdraws and cams up for the crux. Fierce crux!
Luke90 18 Sep, 2018 Lead dog So close! One fall only a single move from easy ground when my foot slipped. Clung on by my fingertips for a few seconds but I was ridiculously pumped and went flying when my foot slipped again. Phenomenal climbing but not my forte. Be wary of the easy ground at the top if conditions are damp.
So close! One fall only a single move from easy ground when my foot slipped. Clung on by my fingertips for a few seconds but I was ridiculously pumped and went flying when my foot slipped again. Phenomenal climbing but not my forte. Be wary of the easy ground at the top if conditions are damp.
Andy Peak 1 15 Sep, 2018 Sent dnf Stood on the ledge after the Crux and fell of and took a big soft lovely fall
Stood on the ledge after the Crux and fell of and took a big soft lovely fall
Andy Peak 1 1 Sep, 2018 Lead dog To the top this time after several falls. Definitely one of the best mid grade safe routes in the peak
To the top this time after several falls. Definitely one of the best mid grade safe routes in the peak
WilliamRupp 15 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jacob M
with Jacob M
Jwatson 11 May, 2018 Lead G/U Had a whip off the last hard move, stopping just off the ledge. Went next go, pretty full on but awesome. Not your average peak route.
Had a whip off the last hard move, stopping just off the ledge. Went next go, pretty full on but awesome. Not your average peak route.
NinaR 10 May, 2018 2nd dog Super dog. Barely left the ground before I was sitting on the rope, didn't improve much from there.
Super dog. Barely left the ground before I was sitting on the rope, didn't improve much from there.
Andy Moles 2 Jul, 2017 Lead
with Dave Lyons Ewing
with Dave Lyons Ewing
islandlynx 13 May, 2017 Lead dog Fell after trying (and failing) to place gear mid crux. Fool! Also kicked out my first nut to start the excitement early
Fell after trying (and failing) to place gear mid crux. Fool! Also kicked out my first nut to start the excitement early
CMoore 30 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Great route! probably hard E3! blind and hard sequence. would be much easier second go!
Great route! probably hard E3! blind and hard sequence. would be much easier second go!
tunnah 30 Apr, 2017 2nd
with CMoore
with CMoore
Greg Cunningham 9 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Tough hard and blind 6a sequence with feet about 1 metre above good gear placed from an OK rest - in what universe is that E3? Brilliant climbing but definitely under-graded in my opinion.
with dan arkle
Tough hard and blind 6a sequence with feet about 1 metre above good gear placed from an OK rest - in what universe is that E3? Brilliant climbing but definitely under-graded in my opinion.
with dan arkle
bwestwood 2 Apr, 2017 2nd dog
pie_eater_pete 2 Apr, 2017 Lead
Flavio 29 Aug, 2016 2nd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
Matt Cooke 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Dale Comley 6 Aug, 2016 2nd β
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 18 Jun, 2016 2nd dog So this is what top end e3 feels like! Made it to the final crux, but missed the crucial crimp first time round.
So this is what top end e3 feels like! Made it to the final crux, but missed the crucial crimp first time round.
Andy Peak 1 3 Jun, 2016 Lead dnf Upto the crux move at the top clean, pulled over the roof only to find the most hideous sloping ledge! probably one of the best routes in the peak. cant wait to finish it off
Upto the crux move at the top clean, pulled over the roof only to find the most hideous sloping ledge! probably one of the best routes in the peak. cant wait to finish it off
Dohnny_Jawes 29 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2016 Lead dog
Louishmouis 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
Hidden 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
pearson9596 15 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt
quiffhanger 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Tough but brill e3 - full on gritstone experience packing a shed-load of climbing into 15m.
Tough but brill e3 - full on gritstone experience packing a shed-load of climbing into 15m.
pearson9596 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tor Nockles
with Tor Nockles
Vnockles 11 Jul, 2015 2nd dog Desperate!
with Mike Pearson
Desperate!
with Mike Pearson
dominic lee 25 Oct, 2014 Lead rpt
Hannes B 24 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
KamilJ 19 Aug, 2014 2nd
dannyboy83 19 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
lena.drapella 19 Aug, 2014 2nd dnf
Brannock 30 Jul, 2014 2nd
Duncan Campbell 11 Jun, 2014 2nd Cheeky! Only just got this clean. Very good though
Cheeky! Only just got this clean. Very good though
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 11 Jun, 2014 Lead
Si dH 16 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S Pleased to get this clean even on second. Really hard. Good lead by Neil.
with Neil Furniss
Pleased to get this clean even on second. Really hard. Good lead by Neil.
with Neil Furniss
ejected ??, 2013 -
Hidden ?May, 2012 2nd
hamer89 ?May, 2012 Lead O/S
Apharri 27 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Feb, 2012 Lead RP
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
maddy.c ??, 2012 Lead
davesykes 28 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Badger
with Badger
Luke Brooks 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Tom Wild
with Tom Wild
thomasadixon 21 Jul, 2011 Lead dog Nails moves at the crux.
Nails moves at the crux.
JulesV 16 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt
cymjt ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 -
The old James turnbull ??, 2011 -
Misha 17 Oct, 2010 Lead dog Was pleased to get this clean to the half-decent rest below the crux bulge, which was a hard E2 in its own right. The blind crux featured what looked like decent holds that were tantalisingly out of reach. Took me a while to figure it out - a decisive layback was the way and turned out to be not that bad but it wasn't the crux... Hanging on a couple of fingerlocks with feet scrabbling for purchase, I quickly realised that getting onto the sloping ledge wasn't going to be easy. Managed to drop a #2 nut into the top finger crack before slumping on the gear. Ian lowered me to the resting spot and I repeated the process four or five times. Pretty much from the second go I had the sequence to the finger locks sussed but further progress seemed impossible. Got it eventually by hanging on to the top finger lock with the right hand and going for a pinch on the arete above with the left hand, then doing some sketchy feet manoeuvres to get on the sloping ledge. The successful attempt was from a rest on the rope just below the finger locks rather than from the resting ledge, which might have made that little bit of difference. This goes on the list of routes to repeat when I'm a bit better. I imagine knowing the crux sequence would make a fair bit of difference - hence wrote it up above! If this is what hard 6a is like, I've got some way to go to E5...
with Ian W
Was pleased to get this clean to the half-decent rest below the crux bulge, which was a hard E2 in its own right. The blind crux featured what looked like decent holds that were tantalisingly out of reach. Took me a while to figure it out - a decisive layback was the way and turned out to be not that bad but it wasn't the crux... Hanging on a couple of fingerlocks with feet scrabbling for purchase, I quickly realised that getting onto the sloping ledge wasn't going to be easy. Managed to drop a #2 nut into the top finger crack before slumping on the gear. Ian lowered me to the resting spot and I repeated the process four or five times. Pretty much from the second go I had the sequence to the finger locks sussed but further progress seemed impossible. Got it eventually by hanging on to the top finger lock with the right hand and going for a pinch on the arete above with the left hand, then doing some sketchy feet manoeuvres to get on the sloping ledge. The successful attempt was from a rest on the rope just below the finger locks rather than from the resting ledge, which might have made that little bit of difference. This goes on the list of routes to repeat when I'm a bit better. I imagine knowing the crux sequence would make a fair bit of difference - hence wrote it up above! If this is what hard 6a is like, I've got some way to go to E5...
with Ian W
Hidden 13 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 22 Aug, 2010 2nd dog damn hard work! none of the moves are too hard, there is just lots of them.
with James McHaffie
damn hard work! none of the moves are too hard, there is just lots of them.
with James McHaffie
Hidden 22 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 20 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 2010 2nd
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 2nd dog
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs 10 May, 2009 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
DanH9883 7 Apr, 2009 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 7 Apr, 2009 Lead dog Heather hell top out
Heather hell top out
Boy ?Apr, 2009 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
Ram MkiV 25 Jul, 2008 Lead couple of years since last lobbing off this, not far off an action replay today! a taxing battle, satisfying when i eventually got to the top.
with al & andy
couple of years since last lobbing off this, not far off an action replay today! a taxing battle, satisfying when i eventually got to the top.
with al & andy
Hidden 22 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
dan gibson 26 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with AJ
with AJ
AJ007 26 Apr, 2007 2nd dog
debsb ??, 2007 -
Ram MkiV 24 Jun, 2006 Lead dog Foolishly tried to redeem myself after failing on GOM and what d'ya know? blew this too! totally despo over that bulge trying to finger lock? layback? in really unhelpful peg pockets. 'savage street'
with Alex & Mick
Foolishly tried to redeem myself after failing on GOM and what d'ya know? blew this too! totally despo over that bulge trying to finger lock? layback? in really unhelpful peg pockets. 'savage street'
with Alex & Mick
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Neil McA 12 Apr, 2003 Lead dnf 21 years since my previous ascent. Failed this time.
with martin cooper
21 years since my previous ascent. Failed this time.
with martin cooper
Rich Kirby ?Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
with Chris Read
with Chris Read
DubyaJamesDubya ?Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
with Adrian Casey
with Adrian Casey
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Roget 22 Jul, 2001 Lead rpt
with jon
with jon
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10 May, 2001 Lead O/S
with Jenny Ibbotson
with Jenny Ibbotson
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
jfletcher 15 May, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1999 Lead
steveb2006 23 Jun, 1998 Lead dog 2 falls but better than last time as didnt rest on gear
with Rob Gambles
2 falls but better than last time as didnt rest on gear
with Rob Gambles
Hidden ?Jun, 1998 Lead dog
steveb2006 18 May, 1996 Lead dog A fight - have to rest on gear below the crux overhang
with Will Harding
A fight - have to rest on gear below the crux overhang
with Will Harding
Neil McA 20 Apr, 1996 2nd rpt
with Neil Comyn, pete barrass
with Neil Comyn, pete barrass
NickJH ?Aug, 1993 Lead dog One rest below the finger locks having over-extended to reach the pinch on the arete with the wrong hand.
with PMcAllister
One rest below the finger locks having over-extended to reach the pinch on the arete with the wrong hand.
with PMcAllister
Hidden 27 Jun, 1993 2nd
steveb2006 24 May, 1993 Lead dog Both lead on but always with some degree of falling / resting on gear
Both lead on but always with some degree of falling / resting on gear
MikePycroft 24 May, 1993 2nd
MikePycroft 24 May, 1993 2nd
ste_d 12 May, 1993 Lead O/S
Mike_d78 12 May, 1993 2nd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Roget 8 May, 1993 Lead dog
with Jonathan T
with Jonathan T
Hidden ??, 1993 -
phil64 ??, 1993 Lead O/S A toughie!
A toughie!
crossleysm ??, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 1992 AltLd
Steve Crowe 24 Jun, 1991 Lead G/U one rest
one rest
AlexRenshaw 9 Jul, 1990 Lead
with Tim Raffle, Dalai Farmer
with Tim Raffle, Dalai Farmer
Hidden ?Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 Lead
with Dave Barton
with Dave Barton
tapley 29 Jun, 1989 2nd
amstel 17 Sep, 1988 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17 Sep, 1988 Lead
with amstel
with amstel
Hidden 2 Jul, 1988 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Mar, 1988 Lead dog
John Marsland 25 Jul, 1987 2nd
with Dave Soles
with Dave Soles
Dave Musgrove 17 Jun, 1987 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
Billg 25 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 14 Apr, 1987 -
Bruce Kerr 10 Apr, 1987 Lead
with Sandra Graham
with Sandra Graham
ajtay ??, 1987 -
with Various
with Various
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1987 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 12 Jun, 1986 Lead O/S 3 guys I met up with at Stoney Caff
with Robyn Nelson
3 guys I met up with at Stoney Caff
with Robyn Nelson
Hidden ??, 1986 Lead
Mike Owen 18 Sep, 1985 Lead O/S
with Simon King
with Simon King
Hidden 29 Jun, 1985 2nd
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Rick51 29 Jul, 1984 2nd
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Tom V ??, 1984 -
Neil McA 1 Jun, 1982 Lead O/S This was chosen as my first E3 lead. If only we had known! Luckily the undergrading in guidebooks was such that it since turned out that i had already led E4's, but at the time i set off on saville st as a momentous first E3
with Steve Hartland
This was chosen as my first E3 lead. If only we had known! Luckily the undergrading in guidebooks was such that it since turned out that i had already led E4's, but at the time i set off on saville st as a momentous first E3
with Steve Hartland
charlesmfrench ??, 1982 2nd O/S
with Ian Milne
with Ian Milne
Ian Jones ??, 1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Mark Kemball 8 Nov, 1981 2nd
with Chris Calow
with Chris Calow
duncan ?Jun, 1981 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??, 1980 -
Robmwatt ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Al Evans ??, 1976 -
38 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set