14m.

Rockfax Description
Pleasant climbing throughout. Begin just right of the arete and climb the wall to a deep horizontal break (good gear). A difficult pull on small holds reaches another break. Continue trending right up the interesting wall, with one last tricky move where things steepen. The arete is out-of-bounds really! © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1996

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ultimate HVS ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
cem 09/Apr Lead rpt
with Kirill Spiridonov, Ricardo Da Silva
Kirill 09/Apr 2nd
with Ricardo Da Silva, Charles Moreton
Sam Woodward 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with HenDog
hirving 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S

didn't use the arete

with Woody
Hidden 10/Sep/16 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/16 Solo O/S
Andy Moles 16/Aug/16 Solo
Droyd 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Didn't seem all that soft at E1, but then was quite strict about the line. Probably much easier if you use the arete and holds to the left.

with Emily
Christabel Goode 06/Aug/16 2nd dnf

Until I get much better or I grow a bit this will remain impossible

lukevf 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Is the arete in? Used it anyway.

trouserburp 30/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Bailed onto VS (v. escapable)

Capricorn One 21/Jun/16 2nd dog
with JasonK
JasonK 21/Jun/16 -

After Greg backed off. Good steady climbing, although steeper than it looked.

with Greg
Wizzy 13/Mar/16 2nd O/S
cf2g08 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

I intended to do the VS to the right, but think I may've ended up doing this judging by the other descriptions. Nice to accidentally do my first E1 (even if it's only a finger-nail's width away from being an HVS)

with Iain
xiangoh 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
NOG 03/Oct/15 2nd β
Hidden 29/Sep/15 2nd
Andy Clarke 29/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Didn't feel soft to me, doing the crux move using just crimps to break and no holds on/near arete. Quite a hard lock off & stretch. Had a few ups & downs & almost came off before fully committing. Harder for the short - no surprise there! Have certainly done easier E1s. Downgraded to HVS because most people use holds out left? Or was I just having a hi-grav day?

Ardo 13/Sep/15 2nd dog

Not concentrating and fell off!

with Rob
Ardo 13/Sep/15 2nd rpt

Didn't make the same mistake 2nd time round.

with Rob
dr_botnik 13/Sep/15 Lead

Escaped right first go, came back fir a second try and did it. Peak hvs.

with neil
charley 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with JackD
Jackwd 05/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
sopaz 02/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Traversed in to avoid crux...

with Mackie
Ian Hylands 12/Jul/15 2nd

Nice conditions considering it had just rained. A bit pumper than it looked from below, and wasn't sure whether to use the arÍte or not. V windy at the top.

with Antonio Ferra
Hidden 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Cake 09/Jul/15 Lead

On Matt's gear.

kermit_uk 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Antonio Ferra ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Iain
caradoc 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Not quite the soft touch I expected having read the comments on here. I suspect those climbers who think it is HVS were using holds around the arÍte which unfortunately is quite tempting.

with nick yapp
tatz45 26/May/15 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 09/Apr/15 Lead
with John Nuttall
John Nuttall 09/Apr/15 2nd
with Coel
fuzzysheep01 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
MattKettle 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Ben Grounsell ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd
Derek Furze 05/Sep/14 Lead
with Paul Wheeler
amccann 05/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Nick1812P 05/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Quite soft for E1, though would be worth three stars if some of the holds didn't feel as snappy. Nice moves.

Matt Harmon 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Luke Jones 24/Aug/14 2nd dog
Freshprintce 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt
fatbuoybazza 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with AnnB, TimG
Alex 74 04/Aug/14 TR O/S
with Ian Bunton
Marti999 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
ned_85 17/Jul/14 2nd
Gudge 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great holds & gear - what more could you ask for? Very soft for E1!

OliverRoss 21/Jun/14 Lead dog

Everyone else had left the crag due to a sudden midge swarm. I wanted to have a first attempt at an E1 though, this was a mistake. It isn't ideal for a climber to be pushing their grade whilst both they, and their belayer are swatting midges. Took a fall on the first crux. Finished the rest of the climb using a hold on the arete for the 1st crux, and veering off to the left.

with Alkis
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/14 2nd
dan_o_b ?/Jun/14 Lead dnf
harold walmsley 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Neat

with Colin Struthers
jogh 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Flic, Steve, Pete
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd O/S
nick ferro 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Oli Birkill
jimbonfire 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
thetradlad 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Longsufferingropeholder ?/Apr/14 Lead
with C May
C May ?/Apr/14 2nd
with Tim
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
chrisbussell 09/Jul/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Pete Wimbush 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Eric
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
poeter210 06/Jul/13 2nd dog
kim.mulji 06/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Nick
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
the power 29/Jun/13 Lead β

lead up to crux struggled to work out move down climbed give deacon a go then pulled ropes and lead on pre placed gear

with deacon
deacondeacon 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
claregardiner 25/Jun/13 2nd
Jackwd 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Straightforward enough!

with Nigel Berry
mikealexpayne 09/Jun/13 Lead
ColinD 09/Jun/13 Lead

Lovely, enjoyable as a HVS. Used arete after some debate from description at crag.

with Keith
brownie mike 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
keith leonard ?/Jun/13 2nd
NickJH ?/Apr/13 Lead dnf
with Andy Cross
Ahab 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jessyb 08/Sep/12 2nd

Lovely climb. Certainly easy in the grade, although having said I foolishly attempted the same reachy mid move through the thin holds to the arete like Matt & Charlie forgetting they have at least 1 foot on me height wise and came off. Just careless on my part. Great climb. Great rock. Fucking long walk in on a hot morning.

with Charlie
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
madasten 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Gaz
Simon_Letman 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with olly
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd rpt
gazfellows 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Lara, Miquel, Anna, Billy
treg 25/Jun/12 Lead dog

With a brief rest cos I was pumped by the time I got to the crimpy move. As with all my leads at the top of my grade, a good dose of just getting on with it would have probably done the trick. Although I want it to be E1, you're never far from a decent rest and bomber cams, so HVS seems fair.

with Rachel
Steven Andrews 27/May/12 Lead O/S

First E1 (Three Pebble Slab excepting) and yes a bit soft but good to get on the board. Nice route with good holds.

with Andrew Marshall
ushi 27/May/12 2nd
with Steven, Andy Marshall
max_chan 26/May/12 Lead rpt
with Phil PCC
claregardiner 26/May/12 Lead
richyg 26/May/12 Lead
Compo 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Gareth
markfairbank 24/Mar/12 Lead dog

Read it wrong in trying to go directly to the break from the crimps, should of used the arete. Alright when you know how!

with Ian Moore
cem 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
PAJames ??/2012 -
cobweb 03/Sep/11 2nd

very nice

with martyn hopson
Hoyes 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Batt 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Height is an issue, and finger strength, too damn short! Gear was bomber for lobbing tho!!

Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Duck Egg 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Jon Stewart
keith Lonsdale 28/Jul/11 2nd
andybirtwistle 28/Jul/11 Lead
Barry D 05/Jul/11 2nd
with Richard W
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead β
dprctr 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
joemallia 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Takacs 16/Apr/11 2nd

better for the tall but a good route otherwise, had to cheat a little bit as the crimps were a bit too much for me

with Laurence Everitt
Rosie Henstock 16/Apr/11 2nd
Laurence Everitt 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
andrew549 10/Apr/11 2nd
with Greame
Graeme Hammond 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

a little disappointed, was expecting more, think i agree with the BMC guide about it being HVS

with Andrew
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
mwatson ??/2011 -
pabbage 13/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Guy Wilson 13/Oct/10 Lead dnf
with Paulo
Jonathan Hall 05/Sep/10 Lead

Pretty reachy i thought, but good. Only HVS if you're a lanky bastard!

Dale ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Not to hard very plesent

with johny
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead β
burto 16/Aug/10 Lead β
with ben dorey, malc
mark20 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
tiga271 24/Jul/10 2nd

Failed on last move

with mark20
ed_1973 03/Jul/10 2nd
fatbuoybazza 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with deborah
MD 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Heg
tradguy 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ed Lamb
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
claregardiner ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
keefe 05/Jun/10 -
with Tansy
jshields 15/May/10 Lead
liamoloughlin 05/May/10 Lead O/S
ieverett ?/May/10 Lead dog
moreno ?/May/10 Lead dog
with Rob Stone
cem 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Jenny Andexer, Paul Bolton
Dogmusher 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Johan Piper
mattparratt 24/Apr/10 Lead

That's more like it.

Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
ChrisBrooke 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead
disturbed_one51 10/Apr/10 Lead
chrisallan 10/Apr/10 2nd β
MRichardson 10/Apr/10 TR
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
bigbobbyking 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First "E1", although felt no harder than several HVS climbs I've done...

with Chris Allan
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead β
boulderholder 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

A very nice climb, although I thought it seemed quite easy for the grade. Liked the little but positive crimps.

with Helen R
stuckonarock 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Phil M
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead
Ketu 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/09 2nd dnf
Byronius Maximus 30/Aug/09 2nd dog

Slipped off the small crux holds due to the rain. That's my excuse anyway.

Twisty 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good route but too escapable for E1

with Rayan Sammut, Byron Buck
Clee 08/Aug/09 2nd
with Chris
Owen W-G 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

No harder than mid-HVS.

with Si & Andy
9fingerjon 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Matt G
Reaver2k 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Really reachy! There's some good gear, but the floors looking rather close by the time the crux moves come. If you don't hit the ledge on the right, you'd probably be fine, which you probably wouldn't. It's got a really nice move on small crimps reaching up and right to a hold near the arete. Then up and right things ease.

with Michael Watson
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd O/S
colin milton 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with ibbo
mjeffery 19/Apr/09 2nd
mick1jones 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Dave Williams
tebs 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Soft but nice climbing

with Ed
Hidden 02/Sep/08 Lead
Misha 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
metal arms 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Stig 11/Aug/08 2nd O/S

very soft!

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
cmsg 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Very nice, but HVS at best. To the six footer who says he could only just reach the holds, I am rather shorter, and had to do a bit more to get to the holds. Still not E1, by a good bit.

with Tom Cattermole
tobydunford 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Adam1973 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
Martin Haworth 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 11/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/07 2nd O/S
RocknRoll 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S

I'm 6' and I had to stretch to the max to reach the holds.

with Richard McElligot
RichardMc 15/Sep/07 2nd
with Graham Sheey
richgibson 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with John, Diz
RichardMc 27/Aug/07 Lead
with Ian ?
Joe Dove 26/Aug/07 2nd
with paul
rayash 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with neil
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead
max_chan 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Very nice route. BMC guide gives it HVS which seems right.

with Lou
ASchwirtz 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
HimTiggins 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with John, Paul
Roget 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

HVS 5b.

with Adam W
Sidekick 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Lukey B ?/Mar/07 TR O/S
JGW ??/2007 -
catt 06/Aug/06 2nd dog

in too much of a hurry and underestimated the pull! a really nice route which is unfortunately very escapable, otherwise it might be worth another star.

with Dan
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/05 2nd
sims 23/May/04 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead
darren1 02/May/04 -
lithos 21/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 2nd O/S
chris sm 14/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ?/Apr/03 2nd
Mark Stevenson 31/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Palfreyman
cem 31/Aug/02 2nd
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set