The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The slabby left arete is sweetly delicate and remains effectively unprotected - a couple of dubious small cams are available but you wouldn't want to trust them! Despite being low in the grade, it was a superb effort for its day and still requires a cool head. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Crew 1963.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , One Man and His Serotonin Levels , 2024 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Winter 23/24 , East and West Top 25
User | Date | Notes | ||
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north country boy | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Same experience as Greg, went up to 'have a look' and 2 mins later had topped out! Great route in impressive position, but very easy for E4! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Same experience as Greg, went up to 'have a look' and 2 mins later had topped out! Great route in impressive position, but very easy for E4! |
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Ropeboy | 21 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: Got to be one of the best lines at the crag! The technical crux being at half height and barely protected and then a bold but easier run out to the top. Class! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Got to be one of the best lines at the crag! The technical crux being at half height and barely protected and then a bold but easier run out to the top. Class! |
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Garan | 2 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: An awesome line with a puzzling, then wild finish. Massively enjoyable throughout. | βeta? | |
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βeta: An awesome line with a puzzling, then wild finish. Massively enjoyable throughout. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Millstone Edge)