Rockfax Description
Climb the wall to hard moves past a tiny pocket to the top break - micro-wires and tiny cams. Traverse left and sprint up the arete on its right. A Direct Start isn't much harder. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Bailey 1983

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Will Webb 11/Nov Lead
with Alex
AF Webb 11/Nov 2nd dnf
Hidden 14/Oct Lead RP
Hidden 12/Oct TR
eb202 20/Aug 2nd O/S

Pleased to belay MT on his first E4 which involved an interesting assortment of opposed wires. A fun route with some delicate moves and a couple of nice rockovers!

with Michael
Mike505 20/Aug Lead O/S

First E4 at last! For my height though I wouldn't have argued with E3 5c. Took a while organising a gear nest (I'm sure some of it would have held) before committing to the move and reward of good gear. The top arête is airy and fun but spoiled slightly by its proximity to Brown's Crack.

Hidden 21/May TR dnf
chrishedgehog 19/May TR O/S
with Kieran Myles
Gabe Oliver 03/May TR β

Seen so many photos and notes about this that I can't claim any kind of onsight. Scoped out the gear and did all the moves in the almost dark (couldn't actually see my feet). Feels very very leadable!

Jake Young 01/Apr Lead β
with Nick
Nick1812P 01/Apr Lead O/S

a fair amount of faffing was involved before committing.

with Jake
Hidden 25/Mar TR O/S
Hidden 25/Mar TR O/S
WB 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S
markalmack 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S
tom_drysdale 25/Nov/16 2nd dog

Fell off on the move with the pocket, wouldn't have wanted to lead this but fun to second

harry_lewis 25/Nov/16 Lead O/S


with Tom Drysdale, Connor Read
David Roscoe 01/Nov/16 Lead RP

Lovely climbing, on a perfect gritstone day! Beautiful!!

with Alan Monks, Chunky Mowbray, Pete Lancaster
Hidden 31/Oct/16 Lead β
mike mo 31/Oct/16 2nd
JimHolmes69 24/Sep/16 Lead β
AndyPratt88 24/Sep/16 2nd
with Jim
high peak 1 ?/Sep/16 TR O/S
PeteWilson 09/Aug/16 Lead rpt

went to try trout, but couldnt do 1st move up onto the slab! lost pebbles? so did this anyway, very windy, and rather cold!

Hillson 09/Aug/16 2nd
Kipper-Phil Smith 31/Jul/16 Lead RP

Could hardly get out of bed with a bad backand cried off going out with Shaun and Chis. Glad I did as dave wanted to do this. Dave had to carry gear to Crag. Although I could barley walk could climb. Led after practice good route bit easier that the other E4s but still worth the grade and pretty good

with Roscoe
Neil McA 24/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Andy Perkins, Jake McAdie
g1m147 03/Jul/16 TR
davewsargent 26/Jun/16 TR dnf
with andy neath
Wizzy 15/May/16 Lead β

Soft at E4 but brilliant. maybe E3 5c is more appropriate?

Calum Wadsworth 15/May/16 Lead β

On micki's gear. Soft I think, but my first of the grade that hasn't been in questionable style so I have little to compare it to. Nice route, sadly eliminate at the top.

MSchobitz 15/May/16 Lead O/S

took a while to commit too. pretty good route!

with Wizzy
Hannes B 14/May/16 Lead β
with Tom
Isabelle Booker 05/May/16 2nd dog
DHHZ 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Felicity
Andy Peak 1 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt

It didn't feal very easy this time with a damp pocket, cleaned on lead reversed to ground, rob had a go came down I went back up and did it

Proddler ?/Nov/15 Lead
arrang 31/Oct/15 Lead β
Sam Marks 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Nice to eventually get to bamford to do it!

with Will Stokes, Ben Mitchell, Arran Greenop
Benjamin Mitchell 31/Oct/15 Lead β
with Sam Marks
pastep 25/Oct/15 Lead

Abseil, Clean on top rope, T.R trying gear, Lead. Good gear all the way. Bomber nut 2 & friend 00 for the crux.

amccann 17/Oct/15 Lead G/U

First had a go this time last year, didn't commit t the move then and downclimbed. Move felt pretty easy this time, committed to it first go.

with Nina
ninastirrup 17/Oct/15 2nd
dom94 17/Oct/15 Lead β

Watched Alex climb it and the gear was pre placed, but it doesn't make a lot of difference on this climb. Really just one very hard move, and if you have enough really small cams I reckon its pretty safe.

with NNNNina, alex mccann
samt 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Bit goey. Topped off a lovely day

with Mark H
Felix la shat 27/Sep/15 TR RP
with Louis
daviesp2 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Aug/15 TR dog
alex goodall 02/Aug/15 TR dog
with Shannyb
Hidden 23/May/15 TR dnf
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Jackwd 10/May/15 Lead RP

Finally, good to get this done. First E4.

charley 10/May/15 Lead RP

Tried it on TR first. First E4!

with JackD
Jono_LS16 04/May/15 Lead G/U
robblowen 25/Jan/15 2nd rpt
robblowen 04/Jan/15 Lead RP

Awesome! TR'd twice to make sure I had the moves then lead cleanly, felt solid.

with Jonny
ashtond6 04/Jan/15 Lead rpt

after falling off Trout with light running out

Louishmouis ??/2015 Lead O/S
ricci.andrea86 ??/2015 Lead G/U
robblowen 13/Dec/14 TR RP

Got clean second try, coming back for the lead.

with Jonny
deacondeacon 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Had to down climb from the crux last year when it started sleeting. Found this quite hard but it was cold and I didn't warm up. Cool route.

ashtond6 02/Nov/14 Lead rpt

fell off first time reversing the crux copying beta... did it my way first time! The gear is abit necky, big wire is good but it's held in by the RP and you weight the RP first...would have previously trusted the RP but saw many blown out in Yosemite!

Albachoss 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Ed
Stroppy 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S

Amazing onsight from Banksy

bigdrew 05/Oct/14 Lead β

On Joe's gear

with Joe Bawden
Teappleby 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

really fun. Becomes a bit eliminate at the top to avoid jumping round into brown's crack. But still great climbing if you resist the urge to. The gear isn't too bad. . .

Gambit 27/Sep/14 2nd dog

So glad I got to onsight lead this, just not the same on a top rope, obviously needed the fear of falling to get me through the crux on the lead! Great onsight Mark

Graeme Hammond 21/Sep/14 Lead RP

Previous dogged on 2nd, abseiled down to check out the move and the bomber gear that I'd borrowed then led. Excellent if a little eliminate at the top. (No hands or gear in crack)

with Jen Maxfield, John Maxfield
al123 05/Aug/14 Lead β
with Henry
kyaizawa 30/Jul/14 Lead β

First E4 lead - very very happy to have got this clean!! (thanks to Luke for having a look at the holds/gear from Brown's Crack). Mildly terrifying, and thought that the move to get up to the break below the pocket, above a lone ballnut and low friend was harder than the actual crux if only psychologically (struggled for reach).

lcullum7 30/Jul/14 2nd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 28/Jun/14 Lead G/U

should have onsighted it but was being a wuss. easier than Strangler at Plantation and that gets 5c.

with Roisin
WillDoyle 14/May/14 Lead

Technically I fell off but managed to catch myself and not weight the rope.

Wil Treasure 05/May/14 Lead
pipof747 04/May/14 Lead O/S
LJC 03/May/14 TR RP

Worked the gear and moves out, then clean on top rope 3 times.

with Adrian, Euge, Sully, Phill
LJC 03/May/14 Lead RP

Second E4, first 6a lead. Crux was leaving the big ledge with poor gear in the first break. Small black alien in the second made the pocket move feel safe and easy.

with Adrian, Euge, Sully, Phill
elCapitano 29/Apr/14 TR rpt
with Jonny
climberchristy 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

My first E4! Crux is well protected, with microcams and microwires, and there is only one hard move. Top is run out but easy climbing above very good gear (5b max?) So, relatively soft for E4? But I'll take the tick anyway!

with bencole
bencole 18/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead dnf
treg 14/Mar/14 2nd dnf

Attempting to second Ben, but well out of my league at the mo.

with Ben
Nye Meerkat 14/Mar/14 2nd O/S

led by Ben, cracking route, think i would've shit myself on the move up from the pocket on lead!

Hidden ??/2014 Lead
Wil Treasure 28/Dec/13 Lead
Andy Peak 1 25/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions, the pocket is as good as it looks

Cake 10/Nov/13 Lead β

First E4 and therefore also first "black spot" on a rockfax. Significant. Had gear beta from Mark, seconded Brown's crack just before for beta and watched another guy fall off the crux just before. How much help can a man get? It worked!

with Dave, Matt
Matt Cooke 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Matt Marshall
marcduhig 29/Sep/13 Lead β
with Haydn
BillyRidal 02/Sep/13 Lead RP

wanted to onsight it but had no experience with RP's. Didn't think the gear was good but did it anyway. i'd like to go and do salmon left hand, i feel like using the arete at the top is a bit cop out when you haven;t used it for the rest of the climb.

The Big Sender 26/Jun/13 Lead dnf

the gear is bomber but still couldn't do it. too much leg to fold up! down climbed for another day.

Jackwd 01/Jun/13 TR O/S
Tithe Technique 01/Jun/13 TR dog
Jonathan Hall 19/May/13 TR

Went for the lead but got put off by being rubbish, okay on top rope. I'll be back for this one.

RM199 19/May/13 TR dog
Ethan 13/Mar/13 Lead
with Sam Hamer
kate tarrant ?/Mar/13 2nd dog
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/13 Lead β
with Kate Tarrant
Hillson 17/Feb/13 TR β
with Andrew Graham, Pete Wilson
PeteWilson 17/Feb/13 TR
cal91 18/Nov/12 Lead rpt
nathanlee 18/Nov/12 Lead β
Harry Chaplin 16/Nov/12 Lead rpt

did it 2nd go after slipping first time.Great route, small but bomber gear protecting the crux

mark20 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead β
J.Wells 11/Nov/12 Lead β
Lloyders 06/Oct/12 2nd
thefuturesmiles ?/Oct/12 Lead β

pre-placed gear at the crux.

Richard P Coates 16/Sep/12 2nd dnf
elCapitano 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Coatesy
sparkass 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Andrew Wightman
JBO 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

My first grit E4, but it definitely felt easy for the grade. Probably only one 6a move past the first break where the pro isn't great, then runout but easy climbing to finish. Brilliant route though, gives a bit of a buzz!

Ed morris 19/Jun/12 TR RP

Felt ok when I used a decent sequence

Rich Kirby 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Keendan 30/Mar/12 TR RP

With Shunt. Really annoyed I got it wrong first go. Second go got right foot level with hands before getting the pocket, worked better.

Gambit 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First E4 onsight on grit. Get in! Crux felt intense but appears to be well protected.

with Barney
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Dec/11 Lead O/S
BorisVBlade 06/Nov/11 TR RP
Hidden 06/Nov/11 TR dog
cjb1992 06/Nov/11 TR β
with Boris
Owen W-G 29/Oct/11 Lead β

First E4, and first success on anything harder than E2 in 2 and half years. Semi beta flashed, since I'd seen the pics, knew to bring tiny cams and that sideways RPs were involved, and had also read a right hand/left hand debate about the pocket (from which I took a hybrid solution). Took an hour to protect and suss out the crux, laced with 5 runners so felt happy to commit, and only about E1-ish once you get the second break, thus maybe E3 6a overall but I'll claim the glory of breaking a new trad grade, probably for the final time, one day after 35th b'day.

with Gav
pie_eater_pete 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
bwestwood 28/Oct/11 Lead

fell few times on crux

Fergus Cuthill 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
allyrocke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Alison2 28/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Wish I'd lead it. Will return. Easier for the short by the feel of it and watching my rather tall partner struggle...

Jack Whiteley 21/May/11 2nd O/S

Respect to anyone who leads this on-sight. Can only imagine what the more direct lines would be like!

with Paul and Izzy
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
dominic lee 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Joe Grondowski 28/Mar/11 Lead β
with John Lynch
steve3489 28/Mar/11 Lead β
Lewis Andrew 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
john lynch 28/Mar/11 Lead
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Andy S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Fran S8 05/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd RP
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd
greenclimb 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
greenclimb 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt

6b on trout proved too much !

Dave Reeve 18/Jul/10 TR O/S

Wet & windy so not sure about leading it that day but will try it on a better day..

with Steve Cousins
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd dnf
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 30/May/10 Lead O/S

Good line, nice moves but unfortunately escapable.

with Todd, Tom, Ivan
Daniel Wicks 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Birdo
DuncanR 26/Apr/10 Lead

Good climbing, suspect gear

with Scott Mckenzie
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead
Milne 23/Mar/10 2nd O/S

great route, pocket move felt tough for 6a, maybe as im quite short.

Jon_Warner 21/Mar/10 Lead RP

with runner in brown's crack at the top. Felt confident after a few goes on top rope.

with mic_b
Hidden 20/Mar/10 TR RP
gknyus 15/Mar/10 TR dog


Jon_Warner 14/Mar/10 TR rpt

Will lead next time. Gear is fine if placed correctly.

with Edan
Peter Holder 13/Mar/10 Lead β
Hidden 13/Mar/10 2nd dog
GrahamPlant 11/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Pat Dawson
Boy ?/Nov/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
thomasadixon 31/Oct/09 Lead RP

Had tried previously and done with one rest in 5/09.

Mr Powly 31/Oct/09 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd dog
tom.e 14/Oct/09 Lead β
with Malcolm
lukea ?/Oct/09 Lead β
with felix
Hidden 27/Sep/09 TR dog
Alex Winter 29/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead β
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead
colkurtz 18/Aug/09 2nd
with Robb
mic_b 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/09 TR
Coel Hellier 14/Jun/09 Lead
Reaver2k 13/Jun/09 2nd dog

They were trying to con me into trying to lead this, turns out I don't trust a collection of sliders and RP's as much as everyone else. Took two falls on the crux mantleshelf which I found really hard, and nearly fell on the top arete. One day I'll come back to lead when I'm feeling cocky.

with Michael Watson, Tom Dixon
lukehunt 30/May/09 Lead β
with francocookson
DafSWMC 25/May/09 Lead O/S


with Eefu
Anthony Allsopp 24/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Clare Curling (My best buddy)
Matt Bennett 29/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Orlov ??/2009 Lead O/S
with sarah
Hidden ??/2009 -
Franco Cookson ??/2009 Lead O/S
freudy_love ??/2009 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 29/Nov/08 Lead
with Rick Graham
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd dnf
alaan 14/Sep/08 Lead

Very silly - climbing on grit again boggled me and I slumped on the first go but pulled ropes and myself together and did it...twice.

with Grant
GrantB 13/Sep/08 2nd
with Alaan
climbergg 23/Aug/08 2nd
Tim M 23/Aug/08 Lead β

Not quite the pure onsight... Saw several people both succeed and fail, plus plenty of shouted up advice. Good route; suits the bouldering wall trained climber!

with Emma
chris sm 23/Aug/08 Lead rpt

Put the side runner in at the top but only 'cause Tyler said it was ok....

with Pippa Froggatt
Franco Cookson OLD 16/Jul/08 Lead rpt

Had intended on doing salmon left hand, but thought i'd leave it for another day. ;-)

with Antwan
Joe Dove 12/Jul/08 TR
with kev
Mr Sparkle 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Hayley
Jim Slater 15/Jun/08 2nd dog

Attempted 6a crux a couple of times and failed. Much too hard for me but fun trying.

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 08/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd dog
Franco Cookson OLD 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S

E3. Really good though.

b.hayley ?/Jun/08 2nd
hamish2016 26/Apr/08 TR
vvanhinsbergh 26/Apr/08 TR dnf
Ian Broome 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Almost levitated the crux, somehow all of a sudden was at the break. Most enjoyable. Stiched it up with RPs

with Matt
Luke Brooks 06/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Will Hunt ??/2008 Lead O/S

First "E4" onsight. Felt much much easier than the grade suggests methinks.

with Bry Lowe
Ram MkiV 06/Nov/07 Lead

did it with left hand in the pocket. despite good conditions and total confidence in the gear, still didn't feel like the soft touch everyone says it is. Very good sequence though. Was intending to try Trout today but couldn't get going on it so finished up the arete. 16/11/05 previously failed on

with barrows
Hidden 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/07 TR dnf
Mike_Hayes ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with John Nightingale
Toby Dunn 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with dave evans
Somerset swede basher 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Sarah Stirling & Nick Payne
Hidden 22/Jul/07 2nd dog
Alex Mason 08/Jul/07 Lead

Having failed to top rope 2 yrs ago on every section, then failed to lead in perfect coniditions 1yr ago, lead with 1 fall at crux this time round just after a huge downpour in the sun, brilliant little move , followed by exciting arete sprinting.

with mick radford
Hidden 14/May/07 TR
Iggy_B 30/Apr/07 Lead O/S

It actually takes a 00 cam next to some of the tiny nuts, it looked like it would hold. Plenty of small nuts anyway.

with Nick
Brown 18/Apr/07 Lead RP

ground up

with John
Tommy G ?/Jan/07 -

Great. Took a fall onto the RP's. Held fine

with Emma Twyford
The old James turnbull ??/2007 Lead
with dave
SR1970 ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/06 TR RP
Joe Costello 11/Jul/06 Lead rpt
with Matt
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Sion
Hidden 21/Jan/06 Lead
Dave Musgrove ?/Jan/06 2nd
with David
willackers ??/2006 Lead O/S
with M.Stott
goi.ashmore 09/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Lewis Ashton
dominic lee 02/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead β
Hidden ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
chris sm ?/Aug/05 2nd β
cornishben ?/Aug/05 Lead dog
with Chris Sims
lukea 27/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with shannon
Hidden 17/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Oct/04 2nd O/S
jonnyboy 09/Oct/04 Lead RP
mikeski ?/Oct/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/04 Lead β
tuftynick ??/2004 Lead
Rich Malcolm 25/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Brennan
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead β
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Read ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Matt Gallagher
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 78
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 73
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set