Rockfax Description
II, 350m. A classic Chamonix 'goulotte' where good conditions are rare but acceptable conditions can often be found. With thin ice the route is much more difficult.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux and descend west to pass under the Aiguille de Toule North Face. Continue in this direction over the Col d'Entrèves, traverse around under the North Face and continue in the direction of the Kuffner Ridge until the west face appears on the left.
1) I, 50m. Climb the snow slope and belay on blocks on the left, below the first difficulties.
2) 3, 50m. Climb the icy mixed step, the difficulty of which is directly related to the quantity and quality of ice it holds. In good conditions it should be straightforward (Scottish III) and leads to a bolt belay on the left of the gully.
3) 4+, 50m. Step right and climb the steep ice above (IV/V depending on conditions) which can sometimes be thin and somewhat disconcerting.
4) 2, 45m. Climb the snow slope to a belay under a huge chockstone.
5) 5, 60m. Climb out leftward (with considerable difficulty if the ice is thin) from under the chockstone and continue up the snow slope above. An intermediate belay is possible (but not fixed) amongst the rocks on the left of the snow slope.
6) 3, 45m. When the couloir splits, follow the left-hand branch and climb the 10m step and snow slope above to blocky, steeper ground.
7) Either abseil from here or continue up the blocky ground to reach the top of the Tour Ronde North Face.
Descent - Reverse the Southeast Ridge or abseil down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
New alpine grade: II 4 (80° ice crux). Ice climb made more interesting when in mixed conditions

Robert Mazars & Gaston Rebuffat 31/Jul/1967

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter, Big Routes.

Txitxar 14/Apr/17 -
Hugh Simons 16/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Calum lead the first pitch, due to pretty poor weather and horrific spin drift avalanches we bailed after the 1st pitch. Conditions of the route seemed good though with plenty ice. One to return to!

calumhicks 16/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Bailed after crux pitch due to rapidly deteriorating weather and so much spindrift that it was often difficult to breath! Navigating back to the Torino was interesting in the white-out and snow covered tracks. One to come back for!

Big Lee 26/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Second pitch was totally dry. The pitch felt like V,6 on second. Climbed four pitches then ab'ed from where the route broadened into the wide couloir. Continuing to the summit didn't look much fun, as the cloud had dropped right down.

robgixer 26/Mar/15 AltLd
with Big Lee
Just Will ?/Dec/14 Lead
with matt bazire
Hidden 29/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 29/Sep/14 AltLd
David Horwood 21/Sep/14 -
DigitalSteak 08/Sep/14 AltLd dnf

First crux has fallen down leaving very loose, terrible quality rock. We ran away.

Stuart Johnston 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Dry but lots of fun. Just made it from first bin to last from torino hut.

with Stephan, Misha Gopaul
Hidden 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 01/Sep/14 2nd dnf
with Ali D
Ali D 01/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?/Sep/14 Lead
with David Horwood
Hidden 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/14 AltLd dog
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd
John Carney 14/Dec/13 -

Gully quite dry, did a variation with short sectons at M5/M6. High winds and cloud - plenty of stonefall and other debris during climb and descent.

with Adam George
frost 22/Mar/13 AltLd

mixed all the way.rapped back to the skis from the top of the gully.

with M Thomas, D Almond
niallsash ?/Jan/13 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead
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