39m.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant find which takes you to places other HVS routes don't reach. The location is intimidating though and you need a confident second. To get to the start, abseil down the right (looking out) side of the headland to a ledge at the base of a huge curving corner. From here, climb a steep crack above on the left wall - usually a bit slippery, sometimes very wet. Pull over the bulge and squirm out onto the hanging slab. Tip toe delicately right across this until you can climb round the roof on its right-hand side. Wander easily to the top from here. © Rockfax

FA. P.Donnithorne, S.Doerr 12/Apr/1997

Ticklists

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UserDateNotes
Owen 10 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
J Glendinning 15 Sep, 2019 2nd
with R8ck chick
with R8ck chick
Graeme Hammond 14 Sep, 2019 2nd rpt Boiling belaying in the corner
with NinaR
Boiling belaying in the corner
with NinaR
NinaR 14 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S Soggy corner
Soggy corner
Helen Gibson 1 Sep, 2019 2nd
with Graham Hoey
with Graham Hoey
Tim Sparrow 26 Aug, 2019 2nd I learn from my mistakes. Now I can repeat them every time! Despite a previous damp morning tussle with this route, I embarked once again. Repeat after me “Don’t climb this in the morning until the sun has got to it”! As a squirmed up the sopping wet chimney, fretting about sliding rightwards irretrievably into free space, I glanced below to notice the sun drying the route to leave something quite amenable behind me. I contemplated waiting to enjoy the route but my leader insisted I share his experience.
with Nigel Hooker
I learn from my mistakes. Now I can repeat them every time! Despite a previous damp morning tussle with this route, I embarked once again. Repeat after me “Don’t climb this in the morning until the sun has got to it”! As a squirmed up the sopping wet chimney, fretting about sliding rightwards irretrievably into free space, I glanced below to notice the sun drying the route to leave something quite amenable behind me. I contemplated waiting to enjoy the route but my leader insisted I share his experience.
with Nigel Hooker
planetmarshall 24 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S So intimidating, but the grade is fair. Bit polished in the corner and damp on the traverse.
So intimidating, but the grade is fair. Bit polished in the corner and damp on the traverse.
nimajneb 24 Aug, 2019 2nd Amazing lead by Gem. This route is so intimidating and the corner was pretty wet!.
Amazing lead by Gem. This route is so intimidating and the corner was pretty wet!.
gem_stone12 24 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S Wet and terrifying! Glad to have ticked this one
Wet and terrifying! Glad to have ticked this one
quickdrawmcraw 24 Aug, 2019 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 8 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S Harder to get to the bottom than to the top
with C May
Harder to get to the bottom than to the top
with C May
Hidden 8 Aug, 2019 2nd O/S
Roberttaylor 2 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S I led p2
with Mehmet Karatay
I led p2
with Mehmet Karatay
cem 27 Jul, 2019 2nd rpt
Andrew Sloan 27 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S I thought this was sensational. The crux bulge looked very intimidating for the grade but was negotiated with delicate bridging. Fairly straightforward after that.
with Charles
I thought this was sensational. The crux bulge looked very intimidating for the grade but was negotiated with delicate bridging. Fairly straightforward after that.
with Charles
Phil79 21 Jul, 2019 2nd O/S Wow! Does not feel like HVS territory on the ab in. Climbing is fantastic.
Wow! Does not feel like HVS territory on the ab in. Climbing is fantastic.
Hidden 10 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
jimxxx 7 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Craig
with Craig
KeenClimber 7 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
with Jonny
with Jonny
craig.potter 7 Jul, 2019 2nd O/S Absailed down the wrong side I lead the traverse around to the start 2hrs total
Absailed down the wrong side I lead the traverse around to the start 2hrs total
mapperley samurai 25 May, 2019 2nd Wow for a HVS.
with Spenser Gray
Wow for a HVS.
with Spenser Gray
myrddinmuse 25 May, 2019 Lead O/S A mad line. Thought for sure we'd fucked it when we abbed down to it "how the fuck am I getting out of here", and said as much to Alex when I pointed out that we were on a tidal ledge in a secluded cove with no phones (not that we'd have signal anyway). Managed to muster the courage to go for it, and bar a moment of paralysis stepping into the wet slot, it went well. Rope drag was bad but not too bad. Brilliant stuff! Unfortunately missed Alex's train.
A mad line. Thought for sure we'd fucked it when we abbed down to it "how the fuck am I getting out of here", and said as much to Alex when I pointed out that we were on a tidal ledge in a secluded cove with no phones (not that we'd have signal anyway). Managed to muster the courage to go for it, and bar a moment of paralysis stepping into the wet slot, it went well. Rope drag was bad but not too bad. Brilliant stuff! Unfortunately missed Alex's train.
Hidden 25 May, 2019 2nd
Alex Seekings 25 May, 2019 2nd Very memorable
Very memorable
robgixer 5 May, 2019 Lead O/S Great route, very atmospheric. Tricky onto the slab then just great position
Great route, very atmospheric. Tricky onto the slab then just great position
CharleyAnn 5 May, 2019 2nd
MatthewK 19 Apr, 2019 2nd
with Dave Vincent (PCC)
with Dave Vincent (PCC)
Tom Blake 19 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S
Paul Sagar 19 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S First trad climb post-Kalymnos training boot camp, and boy I couldn't have picked a less Kalymnos-style route if I'd tried. Committing and exciting corner in the first half, then easy to the top. Enjoyed.
First trad climb post-Kalymnos training boot camp, and boy I couldn't have picked a less Kalymnos-style route if I'd tried. Committing and exciting corner in the first half, then easy to the top. Enjoyed.
mattgrange 19 Apr, 2019 2nd Hilarious. Not a brilliant choice for first route of the weekend as it is rather intimidating and cramped, but actually some really good moves.
with Paul Sagar
Hilarious. Not a brilliant choice for first route of the weekend as it is rather intimidating and cramped, but actually some really good moves.
with Paul Sagar
ClimbingAlex 28 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Totally brilliant adventure climbing. Was expecting waterfalls but was surprisingly dry.
with Dabbott
Totally brilliant adventure climbing. Was expecting waterfalls but was surprisingly dry.
with Dabbott
Fallow 25 Aug, 2018 2nd w/Matt
w/Matt
pearson9596 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
lcourtois 8 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Mike
with Mike
Bruise Apprentice 23 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Tricky to set up the abseil in the right place as the first person down can end up hanging in space or land on the slab at the base instead of in the steep corner.
Tricky to set up the abseil in the right place as the first person down can end up hanging in space or land on the slab at the base instead of in the steep corner.
scarmichael 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Proper adventure climbing that was! Wish I’d a camera for the squirm up the slab!
Proper adventure climbing that was! Wish I’d a camera for the squirm up the slab!
Mike Dudley 23 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
poeter210 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
cperryhouts 23 Jun, 2018 Lead
Sebastien Gastaud 23 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with Charlotte Perry-Houts
with Charlotte Perry-Houts
JoeCoxson 2 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Despite being rather soggy, the positions are indeed fantastic. Squirming up through the constriction may not be the most gracefull way of doing it, but it worked
with aiyer
Despite being rather soggy, the positions are indeed fantastic. Squirming up through the constriction may not be the most gracefull way of doing it, but it worked
with aiyer
aiyer 2 Jun, 2018 2nd
duncana 27 Aug, 2017 Lead Great route, bit damp even on a sunny day, but doesn't get in the way of climbing. Not too strenuous with bridging to start. Interesting line, nice traverse.
with Pippa Archer
Great route, bit damp even on a sunny day, but doesn't get in the way of climbing. Not too strenuous with bridging to start. Interesting line, nice traverse.
with Pippa Archer
Hidden 24 Jun, 2017 2nd
cliffy 3 Jun, 2017 2nd
Julian Prieto 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with cliffy
with cliffy
Bry 17 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Dan Parkes
with Dan Parkes
msoldn ??, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
Tim Sparrow 10 Aug, 2016 Lead Not your average HVS. A proper adventure route. Never quite sure if you are doing it right! We didn't abb in correctly so traversed right to get into the corner.
with Ian Armstrong
Not your average HVS. A proper adventure route. Never quite sure if you are doing it right! We didn't abb in correctly so traversed right to get into the corner.
with Ian Armstrong
khalidq 9 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Quite adventurous. A big wave threatened Peter who suggested I make a quick belay: a relief from the stress. The final traverse looked threatening but was almost too easy.
with Peter Harris
Quite adventurous. A big wave threatened Peter who suggested I make a quick belay: a relief from the stress. The final traverse looked threatening but was almost too easy.
with Peter Harris
Whorlhill 25 Jun, 2016 2nd
Small and weak 25 Jun, 2016 Lead
Hidden 30 May, 2016 Lead
tessa teapot 24 Apr, 2016 Lead
andy dunn 16 Apr, 2016 2nd
with J
with J
elliptic 16 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Tom R.
with Tom R.
gjd 26 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
with Sam Burns
with Sam Burns
Hidden 19 Sep, 2015 Lead
mreynolds 16 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with Dave Coley, Scott Borden, timreynolds
with Dave Coley, Scott Borden, timreynolds
timreynolds 16 Aug, 2015 Lead Awesome!
Awesome!
Dizz 2 Aug, 2015 2nd β
with EJ
with EJ
sparbus 19 Jul, 2015 Lead
with FedUp
with FedUp
Jonny Nick 20 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Epic free hanging abseil into the unknown. Impossibe to see the base of the route from anywhere nearby. Once on the route, getting onto the slab proved to be the crux due to gopping wet holds and a fair bit of grovelling required. Quite an epic route for which you should be very comfortable (both leader and second) at the grade.
Epic free hanging abseil into the unknown. Impossibe to see the base of the route from anywhere nearby. Once on the route, getting onto the slab proved to be the crux due to gopping wet holds and a fair bit of grovelling required. Quite an epic route for which you should be very comfortable (both leader and second) at the grade.
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 2nd
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
The Grist 25 May, 2015 2nd
Hidden 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Flavio 24 May, 2015 2nd
Hidden 24 May, 2015 2nd O/S
adam carless 23 May, 2015 Lead
with Leelogs
with Leelogs
Leelogs 23 May, 2015 2nd O/S Loved this route, great adventure! Definitely one to do when there's been a dry spell as the back of the corner is constantly in shade and a bit damp.
Loved this route, great adventure! Definitely one to do when there's been a dry spell as the back of the corner is constantly in shade and a bit damp.
martinlevya82 23 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hulda 4 Apr, 2015 2nd
with Andrew1
with Andrew1
Andrew1 4 Apr, 2015 Lead
with Hulda
with Hulda
PilarMartinez 7 Sep, 2014 2nd β Second it, this is a super route, amazing atmosphere... One hard move in the middle, the rest is awesome
Second it, this is a super route, amazing atmosphere... One hard move in the middle, the rest is awesome
RobScarisbrick 6 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
charles-green 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Fantastic!! Full on adventure climb, bit of everything on stunning rock with sound gear. Awesome exposure
Fantastic!! Full on adventure climb, bit of everything on stunning rock with sound gear. Awesome exposure
Pete Randall 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with JulianB
with JulianB
Hidden 18 Aug, 2014 Lead
pipof747 ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Cardi 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S What a route! Committing abseil. 3 stars so long as it's dry for sure. Really steep, intimidating bridging followed by an exposed traverse.
with Alex S
What a route! Committing abseil. 3 stars so long as it's dry for sure. Really steep, intimidating bridging followed by an exposed traverse.
with Alex S
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
Big Lee 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S An awesome adventure. Probably the best of the long weekend. Commiting abseil, Crazy belay, great varied climbing. The route was largely dry (by the time I seconded).
An awesome adventure. Probably the best of the long weekend. Commiting abseil, Crazy belay, great varied climbing. The route was largely dry (by the time I seconded).
Murilo Lessa 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Physical VS, physiological HVS. Brilliant route.
with Lee Harisson
Physical VS, physiological HVS. Brilliant route.
with Lee Harisson
Jim Slater 31 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
jlismore 31 Aug, 2013 Lead
Hidden 28 Aug, 2013 2nd
Ellen Cobby 25 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Awesome! Shat myself looking down the corner on abeseil, but not as hard as it looks.
Awesome! Shat myself looking down the corner on abeseil, but not as hard as it looks.
Rob84 22 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Rob Adie
with Rob Adie
CJEFF 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Thomas Ramsdon
with Thomas Ramsdon
adrian perera 27 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Epic, fall and very nearly decked out due to poorly place gear crossing lines
with Pierce Ferris
Epic, fall and very nearly decked out due to poorly place gear crossing lines
with Pierce Ferris
Jacob k-d 23 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
NancyJones 30 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf Wet & slimy - ran away up easy exit to the left.
Wet & slimy - ran away up easy exit to the left.
Hidden 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Stuart Johnston 6 May, 2013 2nd
with adam 24
with adam 24
Olli-C 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S Fun route, contrasting crack and exposed traverse. Not hard but very atmospheric.
Fun route, contrasting crack and exposed traverse. Not hard but very atmospheric.
Anthony Dixon 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
michael burrows 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S awesome
with rockcat
awesome
with rockcat
Rachel Slater 5 May, 2013 2nd O/S Cool route
Cool route
Chi Cheng 5 May, 2013 2nd O/S
adie84 ??, 2013 -
Graham Westbrook 1 Sep, 2012 2nd
mattkemp70 ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
cem 6 May, 2012 2nd An entertaining route but nowhere near as good as Riders on the Storm, even if completely dry
with Kirill
An entertaining route but nowhere near as good as Riders on the Storm, even if completely dry
with Kirill
Kirill 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S Amazing situation. Worth doing just for the abseil in.
with cem
Amazing situation. Worth doing just for the abseil in.
with cem
vanderz 13 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Ollie B 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Better than Riders on the Storm if its dry.
with G.Lewis
Better than Riders on the Storm if its dry.
with G.Lewis
Hidden 27 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 9 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with Matt Gordon
with Matt Gordon
Phil PBC 25 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
with henry castle
w.pettet-smith 29 May, 2011 Lead classic seacliff fun
with claire jane carter
classic seacliff fun
with claire jane carter
steve.warrington 15 May, 2011 Lead O/S
matt.woodfield 15 May, 2011 Lead O/S
clairejane ?May, 2011 AltLd
Byronius Maximus 25 Apr, 2011 2nd Great fun route, nice little squeeze in the chimney to gain the hanging slab!
with Twisty
Great fun route, nice little squeeze in the chimney to gain the hanging slab!
with Twisty
robinsi197 22 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Piotr, Nick
with Piotr, Nick
Ketu 30 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
JWB 30 Aug, 2010 Lead Fantastic. Yes the first wall was a bit wet and slippery and it WAS a squirm onto the slab but what an experience.
Fantastic. Yes the first wall was a bit wet and slippery and it WAS a squirm onto the slab but what an experience.
jon_gill1 30 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S fantastic route!better to do at low tide!it is sunny after mid day and yes i have a red face now!
with JWB
fantastic route!better to do at low tide!it is sunny after mid day and yes i have a red face now!
with JWB
Graeme Hammond 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Wicked climbing, great moves, little damp at the start but this just added to the adventure, CLASSY
with Ketu
Wicked climbing, great moves, little damp at the start but this just added to the adventure, CLASSY
with Ketu
Brannock 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd RP Great route, the tide comming in really added to the atmosphere.
Great route, the tide comming in really added to the atmosphere.
Wil Treasure 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Alex
with Alex
duncan 14 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 8 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
with Tony Payne
sputnik 1 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with c00kie
with c00kie
Hidden 1 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
thebigeasy ?Aug, 2010 -
ian d f 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
markfromstoke 26 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with ian d f
with ian d f
msoldn 20 Jun, 2010 Lead
JonBrown 20 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S Best climb of the weekend!
with Arnaud, msoldn
Best climb of the weekend!
with Arnaud, msoldn
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 13 Jun, 2010 2nd
Tim M 31 May, 2010 2nd O/S
climbergg 31 May, 2010 Lead
with Tim M
with Tim M
RobRock84 2 May, 2010 Lead O/S exellent route,as it said in the guide,This route takes you were other HVS's dont. traverse looks scary,when your on it its not to bad.
with Steve Quinton
exellent route,as it said in the guide,This route takes you were other HVS's dont. traverse looks scary,when your on it its not to bad.
with Steve Quinton
irish paul 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Andy F
with Andy F
mattyork2 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 21 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 5 Jun, 2009 Lead Superb find. What an amazing line for the grade.
with Mike Robertson
Superb find. What an amazing line for the grade.
with Mike Robertson
Mark Davies PK 28 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S Bottom part and crux corner not very sunny at all! VERY VERY WET! making it tricky and quite scary. Brilliant route though - very atmospheric.
with Doug
Bottom part and crux corner not very sunny at all! VERY VERY WET! making it tricky and quite scary. Brilliant route though - very atmospheric.
with Doug
Jason Gotel ?Mar, 2007 Lead Teaching
with Noo
Teaching
with Noo
belay bunny turned bad ??, 2005 -
surfbish ?Jul, 1988 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 28
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set