Rockfax Description
The left side of the wall up a flake to a ledge. Then climb right with a tricky stretch for better holds and a bolder finale. © Rockfax

FA. Allan Austin 1958

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Dynomite 04/Nov Lead dnf

Very cold and damp day = My first lead fall! The flake offers good protection. I fell whilst backing off after putting my hand in some odd black sludge.

with Beril
Hidden 14/Oct 2nd
Hidden 14/Oct 2nd
Jamjar 17/Sep TR dog

Two rests on the rope, possibly three can't remember.

with Mary
paul79 27/Aug Lead
Hidden 20/Aug 2nd O/S
james_mcmunn 20/Aug Lead O/S
with Kate Hutchence
Gudge 07/Aug Lead O/S
Luke Jones 06/Aug 2nd
with LMC
high peak 1 ?/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar 2nd
Jimbo C 25/Mar 2nd
with Jurr
Hidden 25/Mar Lead rpt
franhammond92 24/Oct/16 Lead O/S

So. Much. Flapping

amccann 24/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Fran
PeteWilson 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

wheres the 5b?

with Dave
Hidden 01/Sep/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah
chrisdjackson 05/May/16 Lead O/S

Too hot for sloppy holds and gear was low. got shakes

with charlotte, Dave
AielSavage 03/May/16 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/16 TR
Hidden 17/Apr/16 2nd
DubyaJamesDubya 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Joe Harris
chrismadar 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Georgina Brooke ?/Aug/15 Lead dnf

fell off!

cem 05/Jul/15 Lead rpt

I've said it before but I'll say it again: this is not 5b!

malina 27/Jun/15 -

My partner took a few nasty falls on lead when trying this one. Didn't finish

charvey 26/Jun/15 Solo dnf

Did the hard part around the flake and stood up then couldn't commit to the next wall and escaped left.

Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
OliverRoss 04/May/15 Lead O/S
with Alkis
Stephen Cave 04/May/15 2nd O/S
alex goodall 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Alkis 04/May/15 2nd O/S
Jono_LS16 04/May/15 Solo O/S
scottcoates 02/May/15 Lead β
with Will
williap 01/May/15 Lead dnf

Easy up the flake but bold up the wrinkled wall! Defiantly felt harder than Right Hand. Backed off and followed Scott up

Hidden 19/Apr/15 -
froglette 19/Apr/15 -
with johnpr
JasonK ??/2015 Lead
Olli-C 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Waddle
Nick_Merriman 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S
John Bish 18/Oct/14 Lead
with James Martin
djones66 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Very pleasant. Never too hard,5a max, and the gear seemed pretty good to me. Recommended, as long as you're not expecting too much.

with Matt S
petemeads 28/Sep/14 Lead

Awkward bulge at the start...

with Adam R
stuaart 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Freaked myself out on this, way above my gear which was on the ledge; so I downclimbed from point where you get your hands on the good hold (all I found was damp slime: later found out my hand was too far right---quite straightforward when you know how). Maybe I missed where there is good gear? Good learning experience...

with Edward Benison
rich_hw 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with gavin_pcc
bob_cbr 25/Aug/14 2nd O/S
cragsman9000 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Neil
Ahab 05/Aug/14 2nd O/S
benlatham07 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/14 -
Hidden 25/Jul/14 -
MaccMark 25/Jun/14 Lead
augustus trout 25/Jun/14 Lead dnf


Chris Craggs 08/Jun/14 2nd

Had a tough time on this - the move off the ledge had me flummoxed - and pumped - 4c my eye!

with Graham Parkes
Hidden 17/May/14 Solo
treg 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Good fun climb. I'd give the layback 5a, and the top section was a bit bold, but easy once I committed and kept moving.

with Bird
Hidden ??/2014 2nd O/S
marconi 17/Dec/13 Lead O/S
orb 29/Sep/13 2nd
with Mojo
dr_botnik 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

HVS 4c

ceturnock 07/Sep/13 TR
joemallia 12/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Roget 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with jim
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Bottom bit ok, not much for hands on top section. Hard !

with David PCC
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead
claregardiner 26/May/13 Lead
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd
nick ferro 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Mike Hegarty 02/May/13 Lead O/S
with Dawn
TRFrost 05/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with D. Gledson
timmsy 05/Mar/13 2nd
David_Gledson 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S
the power 19/Feb/13 2nd
with deacon
deacondeacon 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S
dominic lee 18/Nov/12 Solo O/S
Piers Harley 15/Sep/12 2nd
with Simon Clark
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead
hotfeet 01/Sep/12 TR

I lead this climb, but fell near the top. Fortunately a number one wire held, so I only hit the ground on the stretch of the rope - no bones broken, although I was somewhat bruised. Having recovered, I re-climbed the route on a top rope without incident.

The Reaper 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Griff1990 26/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Peak Climbing Club
Graeme Hammond 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Must have been having a hard time in the heat as everyone else seems to think this is soft for HVS as it seemed pretty hard for me :o

eel 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
cem 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Johan Piper
Hidden 20/Jul/12 2nd
joemallia 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
richardlong78 04/Jun/12 2nd
with Stew Boyce, Dave Tait
fatbuoybazza 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Felt like 5b tae me. Hot.

vix 12/May/12 Lead dnf

Did a few moves off the ledge, then couldt work one out, got pumped, tried to down climb to the ledge and fell off.

with Jonny
stuaart 14/Apr/12 2nd

Is this really HVS?

with Neil Redgrave
Hidden 24/Mar/12 2nd
grubes 16/Oct/11 2nd
with Haydn
Hardonicus 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Soft, 5a, one move wonder. Pleasant enough though.

with nick a, Luke Donaldson
cem 03/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Where did the 5b come from? 5a at most

with Dave Amos
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/11 2nd
Anthony Dixon 27/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
DavidR 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
RM199 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Ollie B 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with N.Sillem
geddicakes 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Liam
liamoloughlin 18/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
mattgrange 31/Aug/10 Lead

Nice climbing, felt a trifle bold at the top

with Dave
holters 30/Aug/10 2nd
kleinej 02/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Got to the halfway ledge, started up the wrinkled wall a few times. Finally got a bit higher but couldn't commit to going farther, started getting pumped, downclimbed and decided to fall onto the cam.

with Gary, Robert
kleinej 02/Aug/10 2nd RP

Got to the halfway ledge, started up the wrinkled wall a few times. Finally got a bit higher but couldn't commit to going farther, started getting pumped, downclimbed and decided to fall onto the cam.

with Gary, Robert
rd20 02/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Jason led first half and left in gear, RD second

with Gary, Jason
garywong 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Oceanic 11/Jul/10 -
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
jtree03 30/May/10 2nd
with Brother Al
Hidden 21/May/10 Lead
Hidden 21/May/10 2nd O/S
mol 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Joe, Jesse
Jesse Dufton 24/Apr/10 2nd
leon 10/Apr/10 Lead
with Steven Davidson
Peter Holder 19/Mar/10 Solo
Hidden 19/Mar/10 Solo
Adam Booth 04/Oct/09 -
with Kyle Pattinson
kp64zl ?/Oct/09 2nd
John Tourle 20/Sep/09 TR
with Jonathan Hall, Mark Williams
disturbed_one51 20/Sep/09 2nd
with Wee man
honey_badger 20/Sep/09 TR
with Weeman
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Luke Goddard 20/Sep/09 TR
Jonathan Hall 20/Sep/09 Lead
BorisVBlade 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Neil D 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
dpmUK 31/Aug/09 TR RP

Top-roped this to retrieve gear after a failed lead attempt. Had done the bottom (crux?) section on lead but couldn't commit to the top. Leelogs belayed me on lead attempt.

mr bounce 23/Jun/09 TR O/S
simonp ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Yanis Nayu 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Coel Hellier
Coel Hellier 19/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
russonly 18/May/08 2nd
with Paul
Maciek 03/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
with Andy C.
Hidden 07/Oct/07 2nd
climbingpixie 03/Jun/07 2nd
with James/Jon
Joe Dove 05/May/07 2nd
with kev
seemore ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Jim Dale
Hidden 11/May/06 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall 11/May/06 Lead O/S

Bolder than expected - though the gear is good when you find it. Maybe I was being a wimp

dannyboy83 ?/Apr/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/05 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 31/May/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/05 2nd O/S
cem 15/Feb/04 Lead O/S
Leofallon 16/Mar/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 -
Martin Bennett 16/Oct/99 -
with MD
Hidden ?/Mar/98 Solo O/S
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 39
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set