UKC

Climbs 7
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 406m a.s.l

A rather poor shot of the Myrtle Turtle wall in failing light. © andy_pemberton

Crag features

Short and limited in terms of climbs, but perhaps a worthwhile stop when combined with Lowman or Haytor or Holwell Tor - especially if a bit of shelter would be nice. The highest wall is home to 'Myrtle Turtle' (E3 5b), and the wall to the left contains a couple of short "smart" routes. Mentioned in SDD, however more comprehensively on www.javu.co.uk and now decently covered in the new Dartmoor guide.

Approach notes

On the A38, if approaching from the N follow signs to Bovey Travey and then signposts to Haytor. From the S exit the A38 at Ashburton, then follow signs to Widecombe and Haytor. There is a car park below the main tor. From here descend towards Lowman and follow the vauge path NW for approx 5 minutes - in the direction of the slag heaps and Holwell Tor beyond. The quarry can't really be seen until you stumble over (into?) it.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Shorta than an Orca D 2
2 The Shaky Flake HS 4b 2
3 Terry Terrapin HVS 5a *  
Climb name Grade
4 Angin Wiv Me Bitches HVS 4c 3
5 The Legend of Pip E2 5b * 3
6 Myrtle Turtle E3 5b * 6
Climb name Grade
7 Timmy Tortoise E1 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer andy_pemberton