Climbs 17
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

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First E1 Solo **grin** Also, I found out later, a first ascent! © John_Hat

Crag features

Hardened sandstone slabs up to 50 feet high. Descent by abseil from stake ar top of central bay or walk/scramble down gully to left (facing crag) of this. THe left and right slabs are more friable and chossy.

Approach notes

On the west outskirts of Plump Hill village on the A4136 Coleford to Gloucester road. Coming from the west, at the top of hill one mile south of mitcheldean, there is a signpost left to "The Wilderness", take the track opposite and park at second layby on the right. Follow path north over a grassy bank to the crag which is found in a dip.

Guidebooks

Out of print:
Wye Valley (1997)
It's a slippary slope is in the wrong place on the Climbs at this crag view, it should be between Unnamed and Sandy Gill
paulbb - 22/Jun/18
Seems to be a recent addition of a traditionaly laid hedge and a wooden farm gate across the path to the crag. The path from the gate down to the crag looks like it has been strimmed nice and neately, so more an attempt to tidy things up than block access? You have to climb over the gate as it is padlocked. The new stakes are a definate plus.
paulbb - 22/Jun/18
A really quiet morning, not another soul in sight. Quite dusty, friable, loose. Makes FCQ feel like gritstone.
riddle - 07/May/18
There's been a bit of rockfall recently on the main slab. Some fairly big flakes on the floor, and fresh surface on the cliff. Doesn't seem to affect the routes much, and there are some new stakes at the top which made things easier than last time I was here.
AndyRoss - 14/Apr/18
Did the firt ascent of most of the dirt-name routes in the early 90's. The two origonal routes were recorded in BMC "New Climbs" and were over graded at VS. We added our routes and used the originals as a base-line; hence the over grading of the entire crag. All the routes were rubbish and, we assumed, never to be repeated. Stoned Green was better but has reverted to jungle...
alan moore - 26/Feb/15
The tree at the top of the slabs has now been cut down. Therefore it is far harder to set up a belay. A second rope is probably now required to Rig something using the trees the other side of the fence.
Fatclimber - 23/Feb/15
Hi all, just wondering if anybody is aware of the significant gardening that has taken place here recently. A wide path has been cut down directly opposite the wall and as your facing the wall itself the little path down on the left and the foliage around it seem to have been decimated. Has this been done commercially for a reason such as re opening for Quarrying?
lemmiout - 05/Dec/14
anyone els see the wild bore it was snarling at me and my girlfriend from in the trees
hands solo - 14/Mar/14
Not a great deal of protection for most routes, presumably this is reflected in the high adjectival with low technical gradings. Some very loose flakes on the main wall, some quite large ones could possibly come down at any point and may end up changing the grades or routes a little bit. Also, evidence of dry tooling on the middle wall, can anyone share any thoughts on the ethics of dry tooling here?
BStar - 02/Dec/13
All the routes on the left 'Main' slab are no more than Severe.
Mark Davies PK - 29/Jun/13
Some serious professional gardening has been doe here recently. The top of the main slab is now clean and the whole of the two slabs to the right have been pruned to within an inch of their lives! Plenty of prickly bit, but the gardening has open up many of the under used routes.
morticiaskeeper - 28/May/12
Grades feel soft, but enjoyed, the thistle spikes where a pain, and stopping to suck them out may well add to the difficulty, a good beginners trad site as there are planty of low grade stuff to have a bash at, and the slab is friendly with little to no polish.
Ross B - 13/May/12
worth a visit only to say you've been there once. fun slab highball bouldering at easy grades.
wyeclimber - 08/Feb/10
mmm... that comments not really in English! I meant the grading seems on the high side.
Ander - 27/Sep/09
mmm... I seem to recall, many years ago, drytooling some of the softer routes here, though I honestly can't say exactly where. Also- I've got the old Wye Valley guide- and the grades are very different!
Ander - 27/Sep/09
Not for serious leading but good for beginners / kids etc top roping. There are a couple of decent trees, one stable peg (as of 3/5/08 and a rickerty fence at the top. Also some of the routes are good for learning leading due but some lack protection low down, some are very crumbly and s couple overgrown Most serious climbers could have a good few hours soloing
glass90land - 12/May/08
Not that bad, good for a few hours soloing on easy routes.
thomasadixon - 01/Sep/07
Take two grades off almost all of the routes and then the grades will be about right.
Paul at work - 25/Apr/07
Utterly rubbish
The Pylon King - 23/Sep/06
Not too bad at all. Slab climbing varying from safe as houses to the bold. Gear is good except on a couple of routes. Route grades are fairly generous IMHO, however I really enjoy slab climbing so it plays to my strengths. Walk-in is excellent. 2 mins.
John_Hat - 10/Jul/06
Good small crag various routes some with no pro. solo, all good for a nice sunny day. Beware group use on week ends, shakemantle or symmonds is not to far if its busy hear.
timmy5 - 20/Jun/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Dusty Springfield VS 4b 219
2 Pointlez VS 4c 46
3 Dustin Hoffman VS 4b 328
4 Dust Devils HS 4a 228
5 Follix HVS 4c * 217
6 Day Tripper
-
VS * 236
Climb name Grade
7 Unnamed HVS 5a 17
8 Sandy Gall
-
S 143
9 Little Treasure
-
VD 131
10 Get on Your Zimmer Frame
-
VS 4c 93
11 Ellie Mai E1 5a 34
12 Dirk Bogart VS 4b 15
Climb name Grade
13 Dirty Harry
-
HS 4b 35
14 Flat Landers
-
HVS 4c 67
15 Unnamed2 E1 5a 19
16 Digging The Dirt HS 4a 15
17 It's a slippery slope E2 6a+ ** 2

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