Climbs 43
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

Sunny Dunglas © mike71

Crag features

Most climbing is on the west face which needs several days to dry after rain. Check out the the hexagonal columns on the right.

The west sports face stays reasonably dry in rain. Some loose holds are now settling. The west face now has four lower offs and closely spaced routes, which can be combined in many ways! LEAVE all in-situ lower-offs in place thankyou.

Approach notes

Best avoided in the lambing season, February and March. http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Dunglas

Please park in Strathblane at the church and walk in along the pleasant old railway path towards Lennoxtown. 15 min. No parking at the farm!!

Added a third new mallion to the Beef Monster anchor yesterday, so all three are now new. All the old ones are still there so it is quite messy but definitely safer.
last ascent - 05/Jun/17
Left new mallions on the Beef Monster anchor today. The left and bottom ones, I only had two and the right one looked the least sketchy. It'll take a hacksaw to get the old ones off, or they may have disintegrated by the time the new ones need replaced.
last ascent - 31/May/17
I normally take a fairly optimistic view of crags, but didn't warm to this place. I can't think of a more overly-bolted crag in Scotland. At times you could easily clip any one of three bolts in a horizontal line, making it very hard to know which 'route' you are on. Fewer routes would have been a good idea - and actually improved the overall experience. It's a bit of a shame as there is some decent climbing on the more genuine lines.
DannyC - 02/May/17
Can anyone tell me if the bolt in the boulder is still there as described below? would be looking to shunt some of the routes.
Stevie989 - 22/Jul/14
Nice crag, friendly atmosphere, good day out. Could do with a lower off above Whip lash, ann extra bolt in Poopdeck above the bulge and Andy's old bolts replaced in Negotiations and Beef. Anyone got any objections to me taking up the hilti next time? Also the single krabs on LO which lie flat on rock would benefit from a Maillon to make them perpindicular to the wall, will see what I can do.
sheppy - 27/Jun/10
A very contrived sport 'crag-let', albeit a pleasant one. Your best bet is to forget the routes (as may be described) and just climb random lines at will for training purposes. Plenty of variations are possible but giving them names is, frankly, a bit redundant.
Fraser - 26/May/10
Sector Sport - Best to use the Stone Country topo (2010 Yearbook) as a rough guide and just link the bolts as you see fit. Lots of good climbing in a lovely setting.
JLS - 26/May/10
Sport routes are *extremely* crammed in and confusing, however most of them are proper climbs (or usually variants on the few real lines), apart from Tanning Salon Direct which simply doesn't exist. Will try to get a topo made at some point.
Fiend - 22/Apr/10
didnt bother looking at trad though the sport routes are value if you are getting into the 7s. Though found it very hard to work out which route was which! (especially the 6bs!?) photo topo anyone? for those shunting or top roping, there is a bolt on a boulder above the crag to lower off, this takes you to the top of the 4th sport belay.
michael83 - 10/Aug/09
Major shortage of belays on the trad routes, anyone know how to place a stake securely?
Brendan - 19/Apr/09
Rubbish crag!! Loose, covered in shite, no belays!! Looks good from the road but really isn't.
ligemidio - 09/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Rubbish
-
D  
2 Ribbish
-
S  
3 Dunglas Corner
-
S 1
4 Overlord
-
E1 5c  
5 North-East Arete
-
E2 5c  
6 Drink Up for Tomorrow we Die
-
E7 6b *  
7 Unnamed
-
E2 5b  
8 Don't Wake Up Now
-
E5 5c  
9 Dream Delirious
-
E5 6a *  
10 Joker's Groove
-
VS 4c  
11 Bite them Bequerels
-
E3 5b  
12 The Nightmare
-
E2 5c 1
13 The Gentle Touch
-
HVS 5b  
14 Pullover
-
VS 4c  
15 Curioser and Curioser
-
VS 4c 1
16 Skirmish
-
VS 5a 4
17 The Cross
-
E1 5b * 4
18 A Feet of Arms
-
HVS 5b  
19 Downfall
-
HVS 5b  
20 The Ramp
-
M  
21 Deviant E1 5b * 1
22 Steel Finger
-
E3 6a *  
23 Imodium Wall 7a+ ** 7
24 Imodium Crack 6a+ * 78
25 Whiplash 6b+ * 26
26 Mister Poops 6b+ ** 34
27 Poop Deck 6c+ 22
28 Bahama Breeze 6c+ * 6
29 Negotiations with Isaac 6c ** 86
30 The Tanning Salon 7a ** 23
31 Political Legacy 7b 9
32 Landward 6b+ 10
33 The Beef Monster LH 7a ** 23
34 The Beef Monster RH 6c+ ** 51
35 The Seam 7a+ * 27
36 Airhead 7a ** 23
37 The Ring Cycle 7b+ *** 2
38 Wall of Horrors
-
E3 5c * 1
39 Little Gripper
-
VS 5a 1
40 Moss Flop D  
41 Last Grasp
-
S  
42 A Dream of Brown Trousers
-
VS 5b  

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