Climbs 21
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 163m a.s.l
Faces S

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Climbing the lovely arête of route 6 © RockWest

Crag features

The crag was developed before the access sitauation was known.

The crag currently has routes from about 4+ to 6c(+), they are all well bolted and up to 12m high. Some routes have the odd loose bit at the start. All the routes have stainless steel double lower offs apart from one which needs to be re-threaded.

Approach notes

From the east (Chester etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (junction 23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then immediately left towards Old Colwyn (A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and park on the left where it levels out and becomes wider just after the fork right into Tan y Craig road (between the 2 limestone walls).

 

From the west (Llandudno etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (junction 22). Turn right under the expressway and soon turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas / Abergele (A547). After about 1.5 miles and after crest of the hill, turn right up Highlands Road and park on the left where it levels out and becomes wider just after the fork right into Tan y Craig road (between the 2 limestone walls).

 

Walk up the lane on the opposite side of the road next to the bungalow “Cartrefle” to come out on to Tan y Craig Road. Turn left and after 50 metres head right through wrought iron gates on a signposted public footpath through Ty Ucha farm. Go through the gate in the bottom of the farmyard and follow the wall around to the right to a metal gate. Follow the public footpath for about 300 metres to just before a wall and ladder stile then take a path right up to the crag. The access path arrives at the crag under the jutting overhangs of the route “The Gowling”.

 

A well bolted short crag with excellent belays. Some of the routes were of good quality and some may be under-graded. Needs more traffic to keep nature at bay.
Christheclimber - 06/Sep/17
The chains on the 'farm' gate look serious, but they are only clipped, not locked, and this is a public footpath so no access issue. The route of the path at the other end (option 2) is even more intimidating where it passes between the brewery buildings, but again this is a public right of way (and so should be signposted better).
Ron Rees Davies - 21/Jul/15
After climbing at Castle Inn yesterday (14/2/2015) we were going to have a look at Marian Bach. However the metal farm gates on approach 1 above were chained shut...not sure whether there are recent access issues, and weren't sure of the other approaches, so left it for another day.
Paul Evans - 15/Feb/15
As one of the crag developers I'm puzzled by some of the comments below. Loose rock? As far as I am aware there are now only 2 loose blocks at the crag and neither can be removed. Bolts too small? Too small for what? Its true that the crag gets quickly vegetated and requires repeated cleaning so please do your bit!
rockcat - 03/Jul/14
With ref to the previous post about the farm; that's why the info I originally wrote states "appears to be" not just "a ruined".
jim jones - 26/May/14
Visited on the 18th May, just a quick note that the farm isn't abandoned, we ran into the owner today and had a quick chat. Its public right of way, but just be sure to close gates etc. Good crag, however needs some traffic as there is still alot of loose rock. Take a helmet!
ScottStephen88 - 18/May/14
visited this crag on 15 may. Agree with comments on bolt size,this appears to be a growing trend in n wales.Crag is already getting overgrown and will need lots of traffic--take your secateurs and do your bit!!grades basically ok route 13 is F5.
Angry old man - 15/May/14
I commend people for taking the time and effort to bolt new lines. I've noticed however that here and at other A55 sport locations that the steel diameter used in the bolts is too small.
DDDD - 08/May/14
I'm pretty sure there's a Bumble Bee nest under a rock under route 13. Bee careful! lol Maybee a good name for the route? Just a suggestion ha
Sebastian Fontleroy - 04/May/14
The first approach given is both the shortest and most logical. The routes are worthwhile but many appear to be over-graded: For instance route 3 = F4+ / 5 = F6a / 7 = F5 / 10 = F5 / 11 = F6a / 13 = F4
rockcat - 21/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 High Speed Virgins
-
5b 59
2 line right of HSV 4c 17
3 Hard Brexit 5c 14
4 Splat!
-
6c+ 6
5 Tanfastic variation 5b 13
6 Tanfastic
-
5a 71
7 The Gowling
-
6b+ 18
Climb name Grade
8 Crazy Sexy Fool
-
6a+ 40
9 Ice Pack
-
6a+ 34
10 Kettle Crack
-
5c 61
11 Sosban Bach
-
6a+ 39
12 Krakatwo-er
-
5c 69
13 Seren 4a 29
14 Rocky Robin 5a 53
Climb name Grade
15 Encierro de la Villavesa 5b 33
16 Malibu
-
5c 70
17 Meicrodon
-
6a+ 40
18 Fo-shizzle
-
6b 35
19 All the Roadrunning
-
4c 66
20 Love and Happiness 5c * 49
21 The Flasher 5c 37

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