Climbs 111
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces N

Alex on Cool Man's Wall © grubes

Crag features

A good little crag with a few distinctly good routes on nice crisp quarried grit. The main area is quite impressive, but the outlying rocks to the left have some hidden gems.

The new definitive guide is out now buy it!

Approach notes

The area right of the rostrum (the prominant prow) is now open access.

The back quarry is open friday evenings and 6 nominated days a year.

You can now park in the gun club car park (mon-sat)but make sure you leave a note in your window and park considerately. Do not park in the gun club on a Sunday as it is a shooting day.

Always check RAD for the latest information before you visit.

Access Advice

Restrictions on access (for public safety reasons) apply to the shooting range, the crag, and Deer Hill Moss. The shooting club have strict legal obligations to ensure their activities do not represent a threat to the public. Members of Lydgate Rifle and Pistol Club can shoot at any time during the day, and it is therefore important that climbers do not access the LH part of the crag outside of the agreed dates/times.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

The BMC have been collaborating with the Lydgate Pistol & Rifle Club on several issues over the past couple of years, and after a reassessment of the ‘fall of shot’ safety zone it transpires all routes/bouldering on The Rostrum and areas to the right are outside of the new zone. This part of the crag is now Open Access land without restrictions, and can be accessed at any time.

The remainder of the crag (left of The Rostrum & the descent) is within the ‘fall of shot’ zone and can only be accessed on Friday evenings after 6pm .

This is a well frequented live firing range where large calibre, high velocity firearms are used. It is vital climbers remember this and do not access the LH sections of the crag if shooting is taking place. Shooting is not supposed to take place on Friday evenings, but people make mistakes, for example by shooting at the wrong time or leaving the warning flags out - either way, if flags are out or shooting is taking place why chance it? We advise all climbers wishing to access the crag on Friday’s to determine if people are shooting from the car park or clubhouse.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Over the Moors (2012)
Lancashire Rock (1999)
If climbers wish to park at the gun club there is a locked gate with a combination lock and I was told by gun club members that if I wished to enter I had to contact the BMC for the code. Also members of the gun club seem to be under the impression that Shooter's Nab can only be accessed by members of the BMC.
Deezel65 - 27/Jun/15
Ricochet Wall and Sweatyman are the best routes in the Huddersfield area and stand up to anything in the Peak.
Hardonicus - 15/Aug/08
This is where it all started for me back in about 1974. Although only a small section feels properly crag like, this palce has lots of atmosphere and some good routes. A classic at what was VD but is now HS is Rifleman\'s Chimney (I used to do it as a multi pitch as we were using short polypropolene ropes!!!). Also recommnded is Sweatyman which was VS+ which inludes a stomach traverse. Not sure about access these days, but am about to re-visit.
mike newman - 13/Aug/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Restricted Access Areas
  Second Bay
3 Pisa Cake
-
HVD 1
4 Pisa S 4a 1
5 Pisa Duff HS 4b  
6 Unlucky Jim E2 6a  
  Third Bay
8 Mason's Mauser
-
HVS 5b *  
9 T34 E1 5b *  
10 Martini
-
S 4a  
11 Drunk on Arrival
-
HS 4b  
  Forth Bay
13 Tapiola
-
E1 5b **  
  Smooth Buttress
15 Outvoted E2 5b *  
16 Ducking and Diving E1 5b *  
17 Plane Face
-
VS 4b  
18 Orphic Power
-
VS 4c  
  First Bowl
20 Space Slab HVS 5a * 3
21 Space Arete E3 6a ** 3
22 A Merkin Way
-
E2 5b ** 3
23 Merkins for All
-
VS 5a  
24 Little Boy
-
VD  
25 Fat Man
-
E1 5b *  
26 Enola Gay
-
HVS 5a  
27 Green Mantle HVD 1
28 Virgin's Crack S * 2
  Great Cave Area
30 fossil Crack
-
VD 3
31 Eponychial Retreat
-
HVS 5b  
32 Cuticle Crack
-
E2 5b ** 3
33 Legs
-
E4 6a *  
34 Dwarf
-
VD 1
  Long Wall
36 Giant
-
HVS 5c 1
37 Tickle Wall
-
S 5
38 Tickle Arete
-
VS 4c 5
39 Yeah Baby!
-
VS 5a  
40 Tickle Pocket
-
HVS 5b * 1
41 Tickle Crack
-
S 4a 4
42 Woodbine Wall
-
S 4a  
43 The Clingon
-
E2 6a *  
  The Black Bowl
45 The Shroud
-
E2 5b *  
46 Cream Cracker Crux
-
HVS 4a  
47 Peek Freen
-
HS 4b  
48 Tidos
-
HS 4b  
49 Ginger
-
S  
  Soup Bowl
51 Blue Petre
-
HS 4b 1
52 Black Crack
-
S  
53 Rounded Arete
-
S  
  The Natural Edge - Oval Butress
55 Silly Way
-
VD 1
56 Paddington
-
HVS 5b  
57 Natural Route HS 4c ** 7
58 One Two Wall
-
VS 4c 2
59 Demerara
-
D 3
60 Hard Stair
-
VS 5a  
61 Smouldering Moors
-
E3 6a *  
62 Tipperaray
-
D 5
  Lone Stone Buttress
64 The Wigan
-
E1 5c  
65 Lone Stone Buttress
-
E2 6a *  
66 Lone Stone Groove
-
E2 6a *  
  Open Access Area
  Main Quarry
69 Pocket Route
-
S 4a 2
70 Panic Knott S 4a * 6
71 Barker's Wall
-
E1 5a *  
72 S-Bend
-
S  
73 Fourth Round, Fourth Minute
-
E4 6a * 1
74 Jumping The Gun
-
E1 5b *  
75 Cabriole
-
VS 4b 2
76 Shin Skinner
-
HS 4b 3
77 Wanderlust VS 4c * 9
78 Eric the Cosmic Friend HVS 5b 2
79 Crescendo E2 5c ** 7
80 Thunderball
-
A2 *  
81 Sweatyman HVS 5a ** 59
82 Cool Man's Wall VS 5a * 23
83 Rifleman's Chimney HS 4b 18
84 Slip Arete E2 5c * 2
85 Elbow Alley VS 4c 1
86 No Time to be 21 E3 6a 2
87 Magpie HVS 5a * 6
88 I see a dark cloud E1 5b ** 9
89 Bull's Eye Crack VD 11
90 Forgotten Wall
-
E2 5b  
91 Yellowcake UFO VS 4c ** 47
92 Redeemer's Wall HS 4b 19
93 Bite The Bullet E1 5b * 3
94 Cuspidor Left-Hand
-
VS 4c 1
95 The Cuspidor VS 4b 3
96 Tind HVS 5a 14
97 Born at a Price E4 6b *  
98 Ricochet Wall E1 5b *** 89
99 Scot's Wall E1 5c * 19
100 The Light VS 4c * 9
101 Light Fantastic HVS 5a 20
102 165 Not Out
-
HVS 5b * 1
103 Poetic Licence
-
E1 5b  
104 Second Thoughts S 4a * 16
105 Ball Bearings HVS 5a 8
106 Surprise E2 5c * 2
107 Barney Rubble VS 4c 1
108 Stimrol E2 5b * 8
  Two Teir Area
110 The Long Reach E3 6b 2
111 Half Way Climb
-
HVD 8
112 Colt 45
-
E1 5c 2
113 Chimp Crack VS 5a * 25
114 Olympian
-
HVS 5b,6a 7
115 Full Metal Jacket
-
HVS 5c  
116 Private Pile
-
VS 5b 1
  Square Buttress
118 Fairy Arete
-
E3 5c  
119 Trundle Groove
-
HS 4b 5
120 Final Thoughts on the Matter
-
HVS 5a 2
121 Scoop Wall
-
HVS 5b 2
122 Final Corner
-
HVD 4a 7
123 One Arm Bandit
-
VS 4c 5
124 Slot Machine
-
HVS 5a 1
  Other
126 Girdle Traverse HVS 5b *  
  To be checked
128 Zing
-
S  
129 Eeyore and the Rainbow E3 6a **  

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