Climbs 107
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 265m a.s.l
Faces S

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Summit Quarry Todmorden © MikeC_000

Crag features

Faces SE round the pool. The E2s round the pool are good, as are the E2s on the buttress just north. [Goi Ashmore]

Approach notes

The Owners of the road most people park on have put up "No Parking" signs due to irresponsible drivers, please use the carpark that is BEFORE the wooden bridge - Lets not make access worse.

2 new belay stakes installed at top of Canalside butress
& the routes Cleaned of Grass

A block has come away on Alexander / Brightspark above overlap this winter, but doesn't appear to change grade

Restricted Access

A locally important gritstone quarry is accessed by a public footpath from the Warland hamlet. Under the CROW act, the quarry is now open country. For many years the landowner and his son have been amenable to access by climbers. It is important that you show courtesy to the landowner and his son, whose houses you will pass as you walk up the footpath – this will ensure amicable access for future climbers. 

There is a pool at the bottom of the quarry, whose size fluctuates according to rainfall and is currently preventing access to the Pool Aea and Green Wall. After you leave the public footpath, take care in your approach to the crag.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
There has been further rockfall in the same area, one large block has come to rest on the ledge
agolay - 22/May/12
There's been a fairly large rockfall recently it affects two routes severly - Take away and Pickwick, it may have also affected Delicatessen and Swordfish but to a lesser extent. The grass at the top of the crag appears to have been cleaned up to prevent anyone falling through it.
agolay - 28/Apr/11
A pleasant little venue - minor, but peacefully situated with some good, often bold routes (take your RPs, Offsets, Swedges, Peenuts, Sliders, Ballnuts, RocknRollers, filed down handplaced Rurps etc etc). The Pool Wall, small but impressively sheer and clean, is well worth a look - see BMC guide for details (and note the very good Hawkeye is a solo...).
Fiend - 06/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Canal Buttress
2 Short Crack VS 4c 8
3 Fluted ArĂȘte VS 4c 5
4 Fluted Wall VS 5a 6
5 Central Corner VD 8
6 Cracked Wall VS 5a 7
7 Clueless Groove
-
VS 4c 2
8 'Artins Arete VS 4c * 1
  Pylon Buttress
10 First Circle
-
E2 5c * 5
11 Jaggernath
-
E4 6b * 9
12 Lines In The Sand E6 6c 2
13 The Last Link E7 6c 2
14 Sam I Am E5 6c 2
15 Son of Sam E7 6c ** 1
16 Pylon Direct E6 6c ** 3
17 Pylon Parenting E6 6c 2
18 Indirectly Responsible E7 6c 1
19 Responsible Parenting E7 6c ** 1
20 Groundbait
-
E2 5c * 3
21 Sunny Day
-
HVS 5b 3
22 The Chud
-
E1 5b ** 1
  Alcove Area
24 Wall Climb
-
VD 6
25 Twixt HVS 5a * 28
26 Windy Wall HVS 5b ** 15
27 Double Mantel
-
S 4a 10
28 The Crab VS 4c * 49
29 Creepy Crab
-
VS 4c 8
30 Layback Crack VS 5a *** 54
31 Starters VD 33
32 Endgamer *
-
E2 6a ** 1
33 Tween * HVS 5b * 1
34 Scaredy Cat * HVS 5a * 1
  Cemetery Wall
36 The Coffin
-
VS 4c 6
37 The Shroud E2 5c ** 13
38 The Shroud: Turin Finish
-
E2 5c ** 3
Climb name Grade
39 Grave's End E1 5b *** 42
40 Grave's End Direct Start
-
E1 5c ** 3
41 Laying By E3 5c ** 7
42 Satin Trim
-
E2 5c 1
43 Order HS 4a * 50
44 Free Spirit (with side runner) HVS 5b 8
45 Free Spirit E2 5b 6
46 Disorder HS 4a ** 74
47 Cnig's Direct VS 4c 8
48 Cnig's Underhang VS 4b 17
49 Alexander the Great HVS 5b * 33
50 Brightspark VS 4b * 29
51 Laser Beam
-
S 4a 8
52 Delicatessen
-
VD 3
53 Take Away
-
D 4
54 Pickwick
-
D 4
55 Swordfish
-
HS 4b 3
56 Squid
-
VD 6
57 Sunstroke
-
VD 5
58 Sunshine
-
VD 2
59 Who Dun It? E1 6a * 4
60 Derek Did It
-
VD 1
61 Knuclist
-
VS 4c  
62 Hangman
-
E3 5c 1
63 The Noose
-
HVS 5a 1
64 Gardener's Nightmare
-
VS 4b 1
65 Th'way
-
VS 4c 1
  Way Out Wall
67 Epicoff S 4a 9
68 Giggle Pin VS 5a * 2
69 Slight Wall HVS 5a * 9
70 Way Out HVS 5a 8
71 Start, and Finish Directly E1 5b * 1
72 Combination VS 5a * 2
73 Exit HVS 5a * 8
74 L.M.J. HS 4b 2
  Wall of Grooves
76 Black Wall
-
HS 4a 4
Climb name Grade
77 Tit Bit
-
VS 4c 2
78 Tidemark
-
S 4a 1
79 Kebab
-
S 4a 2
80 Babke
-
VD 2
81 Play it Again Sam
-
S 4a 1
82 Hart to Hart
-
VD 3
83 Sam
-
VD 1
84 Mas
-
VD 1
85 Casablanca
-
HVS 5b 3
86 Buttertoe Wall
-
HS 4a 7
87 Ankle Strap
-
VS 5a  
88 Cheese Balls
-
E1 5c  
  Pool Area
90 Latentest HVS 5a 4
91 Split E1 5c * 2
92 High Tide HVS 5b * 1
93 Personality E2 6a ** 1
94 Sea Cruise E3 6a  
95 Sinking Feeling E2 5c 2
96 Split Leg Corner HVS 5a 5
97 Hawkeye E2 5c ** 3
98 The Noo E2 5c 2
99 Hot HVS 5a * 3
100 Comfortable E1 5b *  
101 Cold HVS 5b 1
102 Shorty VS 5a  
103 Dry Run HVS 5b  
104 Gardener HVS 5b 1
105 Moroccan Roll E1 6a  
106 It's Slippy HVS 5a 3
107 Blinkers HVS 5a 2
108 Pull Hard VS 4c 2
109 Pull Hard (Wall Finish) VS 4c 1
110 Combined Ops HVS 5b  
111 Yes VS 4c 3
112 Maybe HS 4b 3
113 The Pit Girdle HVS 5a, 5a  
114 Waterworks * f7B 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Nik Jennings