Climbs 56
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces NE

Morning On Carl Wark © Andy Hemingway

Crag features

A discontinuous edge with short (up to 9m) routes, mainly in the lower grades, in a beautiful location above the Burbage Valley. Best routes are Lime Juice Chimney (D), Tower Wall (HVS 5b) and the rarely climbed Lost World (E6 6c).

Approach notes

Approach either from the south, starting up the Burbage Valley from the Fox House end and bearing left, or via Higgar Tor from the north, (15 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005)
Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left-hand Buttress
2 Lookout Ledge HVD 4b 55
3 Sensory Overload E2 6a * 3
4 Boulder Crack VD 4b 34
5 Ingle Nook VD 4a 43
6 Lump Wall VD 37
7 Leaning Crack S 4b * 35
8 Boy Wonder E3 6a *  
9 Boy Wonder (boulder problem)
-
V1 5c 2
10 Corner and Crack HS 4b * 23
11 Broken Buttress HVD 4a 28
12 Broken Buttress Crack HVD 4a 13
13 Broken Buttress Corner D 15
14 Broken Buttress Chimney D 14
15 Broken Buttress Arete HS 4a 10
16 Carl's Buttress Left Hand HS 4c 8
17 Carl's Buttress S 5a * 29
18 Carl's Right Wall VD 15
19 The Corner
-
S 7
20 The Arete
-
HVD 4a 5
21 The Gloomy Corner
-
VD 7
  Right-hand Buttress
23 Layback Crack S 4a 18
24 2b Or Not 2b HVS 5b 3
25 Chockstone Crack S 4b 13
26 Chockstone Crack (right-hand start) D 3
27 Chock's Away
-
HVS 5a  
28 Carlos Warkos HVS 5b 1
29 Art of Silence
-
E3 6a  
30 Orange Juice Wall VS 4b 8
31 Six Pack
-
E3 6a  
32 Lime Juice Chimney HVD 4a ** 37
33 Lime Juice Chimney Inside Route M 7
34 Not Green Flag f7A * 2
35 Green Flag f7B+ **  
36 Rugosity Dinks f6C * 2
37 Tower Wall HVS 5b * 1
38 Lost World E6 6c ** 8
39 Tower Crack HS 4b * 23
40 Last Crack S 4a 11
41 Shart Arete Right Hand V1 5b  
42 Sharp Arete Wall V0+ 5b  
43 J-Warkin
-
V5 6b 9
44 Rib above Hole
-
V0 5a  
45 Lost Wife Crack S 4a 1
46 Gemini HVD 4a  
47 Micro Midge's Dinner
-
E1 5b 1
  Guplets Wall
49 Guplets on Toast f7B+ *** 11
50 Guplets Sit Start
-
V9 6c 9
51 Slanting Crack
-
VS 4c 1
52 Rumble Groove
-
VS 4b 1
53 Darkstar f7C+ **  
54 Pock This Way E1 5c 1
55 Pock Dirty To Me E1 5c 1
56 Pock and Pebble Left E1 6a 1
57 R' Spock VS 5b 1
58 Mini Fridge f6A+ 1
59 Black Asteroid * f7C+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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