Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A real classic and for good reason - this is a great route. The start is not obvious - look for a bolt 5m up.
1) 5b. Climb a series of overlaps to reach a shallow, right-leaning corner and follow this to a stance.
2) 5c. Head up the corner above and when this widens and becomes grassy, step left and follow a brilliant flake-corner to a comfortable stance on the left.
3) 5c. Make a few tricky steep moves off the belay then carry on up easier cracks and a corner to a beautifully positioned belay with a brilliant view of Fidel Fiasco.
4) 5c. Climb the cracked wall above then rock over onto the stunning slab above. Follow this to the top. A great pitch.
5) 5c. Step right off the belay and climb a short, strenuous chimney and then an amazing corner above.
Descent - You can abseil from here but it is recommended that you do two more pitches of 4b/c then 6a along the ridge crest of the Red Pillar's summit tower just for the pleasure of reaching the summit itself. Abseiling L'Eau Rance d'Arabie is the best way down from here. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Popular, established classic on the Red Pillar.

Cerdon/Piola Sep/1985.

Ticklists

Parois-de-legende, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+), Alpine Dreamz

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