Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A real classic and for good reason - this is a great route. The start is not obvious - look for a bolt 5m up.
1) 5b. Climb a series of overlaps to reach a shallow, right-leaning corner and follow this to a stance.
2) 5c. Head up the corner above and when this widens and becomes grassy, step left and follow a brilliant flake-corner to a comfortable stance on the left.
3) 5c. Make a few tricky steep moves off the belay then carry on up easier cracks and a corner to a beautifully positioned belay with a brilliant view of Fidel Fiasco.
4) 5c. Climb the cracked wall above then rock over onto the stunning slab above. Follow this to the top. A great pitch.
5) 5c. Step right off the belay and climb a short, strenuous chimney and then an amazing corner above.
Descent - Abseil down Majorette Thatcher. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Popular, established classic on the Red Pillar.

Cerdon/Piola Sep/1985.

Ticklists

Parois-de-legende , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alpine Dreamz , Road to the Walker Spur , Big Ideas , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Paroi de Légende (New & Old) , Chamonix!! , Chamonix Rock Routes , Chamonix Summer 2025 , Chamonix 25 , Alps 26

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