UKC

80m, 4 pitches. TD+ II A2 6b
5c, A2 6b, 5b, 5b

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User Date Notes
paboyle 8 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Did this back in 1999, with a bloke called Aidan met in the Argentiere campsite. We intended to do the Rebuffat Pierre, but I got attracted to the roof like a moth to a flame. Did the roof free, awesome exposure over the cosmic hut power cables. Piola says the roof is 6c free, without the aid (and I didn't frig the gear). Feels safe, good gear cracks. It's really just one move to step out, and the rest of route is easier. We abbed the route, and got a rope on the 10,000 volt cables which scared the shit out us. Never used the rope again. Better to take boots, axes, crampons in a back pack and finish the Cosmic arete. Missed the last "official" cable car down, and they punished me by making me walk from Plan de l'Aiguille to the valley floor. "You are ze guys ooo were running up ze glacier, no? Ah.. I am sorry (smile), you 'ave missed ze last cable car". Had a bus to catch next morning, so no choice to bivvy. :(
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βeta: Did this back in 1999, with a bloke called Aidan met in the Argentiere campsite. We intended to do the Rebuffat Pierre, but I got attracted to the roof like a moth to a flame. Did the roof free, awesome exposure over the cosmic hut power cables. Piola says the roof is 6c free, without the aid (and I didn't frig the gear). Feels safe, good gear cracks. It's really just one move to step out, and the rest of route is easier. We abbed the route, and got a rope on the 10,000 volt cables which scared the shit out us. Never used the rope again. Better to take boots, axes, crampons in a back pack and finish the Cosmic arete. Missed the last "official" cable car down, and they punished me by making me walk from Plan de l'Aiguille to the valley floor. "You are ze guys ooo were running up ze glacier, no? Ah.. I am sorry (smile), you 'ave missed ze last cable car". Had a bus to catch next morning, so no choice to bivvy. :(

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Route of Interest
Bonatti-Tabou

Grade: TD+ 6b+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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