Rockfax Description
II, 120m. A true alpine classic, this route was immortalised in Rébuffat's own The Mont Blanc Massif: The Hundred Finest Routes book. The crux was originally aided and is now equipped with numerous bits of rope and other paraphernalia. It is in an excellent situation and the rest of the route is superb and varied. Early in the season the route can be started from the gully. At other times it is best started direct up a 5b pitch.
1) 5b, 25m. Follow slabs and grooves.
2) 4a, 30m. Cross the ledge easily before climbing a short corner to stand on top of a block. Step rightwards off this and scramble easily up to a belay on a ledge, 15m below and left of the crux overhang.
3) 6a+, 50m. Climb the corner then the thin flake-crack which leads to the crux overhang via some increasingly steep ground and good holds, past two bolts. Above the crux, follow the easier groove for 10m to reach a belay at the right-hand edge of a large, sloping ledge.
4) 5c, 30m. Walk to the left along the ledge for 4m and then climb the imposing crack above through the small overhang. If you can't jam, this will feel hard so sandbagging your mate by 'kindly' offering to lead pitch 2 may be worthwhile! Once above the overhang, follow the crack with continual interest and the odd steep pull to an exposed but comfortable ledge.
5) 5b, 25m. More of the same, but a bit easier. Continue up the crack for 20m to a ledge with broken ground above and on the right. Head towards the broken ground by climbing a short corner and belay where the face peters out into scrambling terrain. Pay attention not to knock any of the loose rocks which litter this area onto climbers below. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The most popular route on the Eperon des Cosmiques. Pitches: 3, 4+/5, A0 or 5+/6a (roof - free at 5-?), 4, 4+, 4+. Recently partially bolted by the Chamonix guides (!).
Gaston Rebuffat / Bernard Pierre 13/Aug/1956.
Ticklists
Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Alpine Dreamz , Alps 22 , Alps 2023 , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| fuzzysheep01 | 15 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you want to ab down the route you'll need a pair of 60s or some gear you're willing to leave behind. Rockfax measurements are quite a way out - you need to carry on at least 20m after the crux to reach the ledge, not 10m. The route is not hugely obvious after that. The approach gully had a lot of rock coming down it by 10am - we did a direct approach to the first belay that was safer at about 5a. No sign of any bolting other than first belay (as suggested by UKC description) but various pegs/tat at belays - we had one with no fixed gear. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: If you want to ab down the route you'll need a pair of 60s or some gear you're willing to leave behind. Rockfax measurements are quite a way out - you need to carry on at least 20m after the crux to reach the ledge, not 10m. The route is not hugely obvious after that. The approach gully had a lot of rock coming down it by 10am - we did a direct approach to the first belay that was safer at about 5a. No sign of any bolting other than first belay (as suggested by UKC description) but various pegs/tat at belays - we had one with no fixed gear. |
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Macho Couloir (Quille Couloir)
Grade: TD- ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)