UKC

7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 230m. A great route climbing the face beneath the large roof that La Fin de Babylone crosses under. The latest and most sustained of the routes to be put up and arguably the best!
1) 6a, 25m. Follow the bolts diagonally leftwards to a ledge.
2) 5c, 35m. Trend leftwards through a groove and then cross leftwards towards a spur.
3) 6b+, 40m. A nice pitch. Cross a gully on the left and follow the steep wall on crimps
4) 6c, 30m. Make for the large roof on steep ground crossing the roof and La fin de Babylon on its right-hand side. Once through the roof follow the groove above to a belay.
5) 6b, 45m. A long pitch to a belay on a ledge.
6) 6b, 35m. Climb the steep wall above on positive holds that gives way to easier ground that leads to the shared final belay.
7) 5c, 20m. Climb the line of bolts on the left from the belay that leads through slightly loose rock up a spur. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
New route by Piola on Brevent south face, next to Babylone. Topo, grades and name are still to be released.

Ticklists

Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.

Feedback

User Date Notes
robbiebrookie 22 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Led 1,2,6,7. Tom led crux pitches 3,4,5 nice route good for me to continue trying to build strength and movement. Felt more sustained to me than Babylone, but more consistently equipped with no silly runouts, technical and P3 was hard to read. The wall below the roof is thin pumpy and hard. P3 (6b+) had a hard to read sequence with thin LH side pulls and poor tentative small feet ended up having to get RF high. P4 the crux was the wall before the roof, again hard tentative thin hands and poor feet I pulled on a draw mid crux, also a tempting block there with X on, the roof was ok good hold to right just be patient building feet, aidable. P5 we did the 6b version good but long 45m and few loose bits of rock take your time. P6 fun jugs on red glue bolts. P7 seems to be shared with Babylone.
βeta?
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βeta: Led 1,2,6,7. Tom led crux pitches 3,4,5 nice route good for me to continue trying to build strength and movement. Felt more sustained to me than Babylone, but more consistently equipped with no silly runouts, technical and P3 was hard to read. The wall below the roof is thin pumpy and hard. P3 (6b+) had a hard to read sequence with thin LH side pulls and poor tentative small feet ended up having to get RF high. P4 the crux was the wall before the roof, again hard tentative thin hands and poor feet I pulled on a draw mid crux, also a tempting block there with X on, the roof was ok good hold to right just be patient building feet, aidable. P5 we did the 6b version good but long 45m and few loose bits of rock take your time. P6 fun jugs on red glue bolts. P7 seems to be shared with Babylone.
mic.snow 7 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Shiny circular glue-ins. (Babylon has flatter glue ins) Belays not connected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Shiny circular glue-ins. (Babylon has flatter glue ins) Belays not connected.
mic.snow 7 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Grades are roughly: 6a, 5, 6b+, 6c, 6b, 6a+, 5.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Grades are roughly: 6a, 5, 6b+, 6c, 6b, 6a+, 5.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 2
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Punnta Gugliermina SW Face Gervasutti

Grade: TD+ ***
(Mont Blanc)

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