II, 230m. A great route climbing the face beneath the large roof that La Fin de Babylone crosses under. The latest and most sustained of the routes to be put up and arguably the best!
1) 6a, 25m. Follow the bolts diagonally leftwards to a ledge.
2) 5c, 35m. Trend leftwards through a groove and then cross leftwards towards a spur.
3) 6b+, 40m. A nice pitch. Cross a gully on the left and follow the steep wall on crimps
4) 6c, 30m. Make for the large roof on steep ground crossing the roof and La fin de Babylon on its right-hand side. Once through the roof follow the groove above to a belay.
5) 6b, 45m. A long pitch to a belay on a ledge.
6) 6b, 35m. Climb the steep wall above on positive holds that gives way to easier ground that leads to the shared final belay.
7) 5c, 20m. Climb the line of bolts on the left from the belay that leads through slightly loose rock up a spur. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
New route by Piola on Brevent south face, next to Babylone. Topo, grades and name are still to be released.
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