UKC

Restricted Access

 

The landowners do not permit climbing and there have been problems with access in the distant past particularly on the Paret de sa Porta crags directly below the castle itself. In the more remote sectors, problems are very unlikely to occur. The best advice is to use only the described approaches and to leave if asked.

There is also a legal article prohibiting climbing on much of the crag due to nesting birds, between February and July. The ban does not apply to Pared de Sa Porta and Castell d'Alaro. (http://www.caib.es/sites/espaisnaturalsprotegits/es/limitaciones/archivopub.do?ctrl=MCRST34ZI314436&id=314436)

30m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best tufa climbs in the world! It's got everything; hands-off rests, back and footing, knee-bars, egyptians and a terrible name. 30m long and many fail at 29.5m so summon everything you have for the last move. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50 , Mallorca

Feedback

User Date Notes
Thin Boyz 13 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Whipped on a tufa flake at mid height and the bottom of it fell off, remaining chunk is dubious
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whipped on a tufa flake at mid height and the bottom of it fell off, remaining chunk is dubious
dynoseb 18 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Crazy tufa fun!! Save some beans for the crimps just before the chains. I would recommend getting inventive with how you might rest on this. I remember sitting on a bulbus bit of tufa with my legs wrapped fully around it and getting a few chicken wings in to take the weight off, knee bars and back and footing.
Show beta
βeta: Crazy tufa fun!! Save some beans for the crimps just before the chains. I would recommend getting inventive with how you might rest on this. I remember sitting on a bulbus bit of tufa with my legs wrapped fully around it and getting a few chicken wings in to take the weight off, knee bars and back and footing.

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vall-de-mega

Grade: 7a ***
(Valldemossa)

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