UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
The central crack of the slab gives an interesting pitch, with plenty of protection. An alternative finish can be made up the corner of Ash Tree Slab at the same grade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
VS 4c in the 2015 BMC guide

FA. G.R.Fiddles, A.T.Braddock 1959.

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User Date Notes
Phil Lyon 25 May Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax suggests finishing at the twin tree stumps, implying anchoring there. Don\'t do that, or even pull hard on them; they\'re rotten, dusty and falling apart.
βeta?
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βeta: Rockfax suggests finishing at the twin tree stumps, implying anchoring there. Don't do that, or even pull hard on them; they're rotten, dusty and falling apart.
PaulJepson 21 Apr Show βeta
βeta: There is some loose stuff from below the big detached flake to the top. Can mostly be avoided if you stick to the solid cracks. There is one very useful looking jug, which you also have to remember not to stand on, when you're just moving right to the base of the flake. The double stump at the top is very rotten and the tat further back is around a dead Ash. We went left (facing out) to the healthy tree to ab. We put some new tat on the tree as the old stuff was really crunchy. However our own tat was only 6mm or 7mm so we left the old stuff too, so if the next party up could take a knife and some ~10mm (would only need about 1.5m) that would be great!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is some loose stuff from below the big detached flake to the top. Can mostly be avoided if you stick to the solid cracks. There is one very useful looking jug, which you also have to remember not to stand on, when you're just moving right to the base of the flake. The double stump at the top is very rotten and the tat further back is around a dead Ash. We went left (facing out) to the healthy tree to ab. We put some new tat on the tree as the old stuff was really crunchy. However our own tat was only 6mm or 7mm so we left the old stuff too, so if the next party up could take a knife and some ~10mm (would only need about 1.5m) that would be great!
Joseph Price 29 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Join "Broken Toe" for tat & maillon around a tree, or left for some very nice chains.
βeta?
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βeta: Join "Broken Toe" for tat & maillon around a tree, or left for some very nice chains.
Howard J 27 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: At the former grade this always felt like a soft-touch VS (my favourite sort). Most of it is HS 4b no question, but the start is tricky, albeit low and protected., and I think HS 4b slightly undersells it. Maybe HS 4c?
βeta?
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βeta: At the former grade this always felt like a soft-touch VS (my favourite sort). Most of it is HS 4b no question, but the start is tricky, albeit low and protected., and I think HS 4b slightly undersells it. Maybe HS 4c?
smudge 10 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The massive flake is not attached to the buttress, avoid or handle with extreme care. I know it’s been like it a long time but it’s an accident waiting to happen.
βeta?
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βeta: The massive flake is not attached to the buttress, avoid or handle with extreme care. I know it’s been like it a long time but it’s an accident waiting to happen.
astrange 8 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Interesting route with good protection - HS sums it up :-)
βeta?
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βeta: Interesting route with good protection - HS sums it up :-)
greedo 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Did the RH finish up the gravity defying flake. It's hard not to use the flake; just breath out and make yourself as light as possible ????. The old double trunked ash tree is now chopped low but a new rope fixed belay exists. Guess you could abseil from here but there is some loose rock at the top. Better to walk off or drop down left facing in to top of ash tree slab for shiny new bolted lower off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did the RH finish up the gravity defying flake. It's hard not to use the flake; just breath out and make yourself as light as possible ????. The old double trunked ash tree is now chopped low but a new rope fixed belay exists. Guess you could abseil from here but there is some loose rock at the top. Better to walk off or drop down left facing in to top of ash tree slab for shiny new bolted lower off.
babymoac 28 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Mountaineering skills for the upper flake - climb in a way that reduces your gravity !
βeta?
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βeta: Mountaineering skills for the upper flake - climb in a way that reduces your gravity !
Skyfall 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I would agree this is HS though I went up the variant finish which is borderline VS if only as the big "flake" (a pile of blocks just about attached to the wall) appears not to be long for this world. The finish through the polihed bulge is also interesting. There is a BMC sign below this buttress which mentions loose rock. We were told by others that there didn't seem to be any loose rock but on climbing the flake I would have to disagree. Rather dangerous imo so beware. The normal finish which heads left to finish seems fine in comparison and is certainly no harder than HS.
βeta?
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βeta: I would agree this is HS though I went up the variant finish which is borderline VS if only as the big "flake" (a pile of blocks just about attached to the wall) appears not to be long for this world. The finish through the polihed bulge is also interesting. There is a BMC sign below this buttress which mentions loose rock. We were told by others that there didn't seem to be any loose rock but on climbing the flake I would have to disagree. Rather dangerous imo so beware. The normal finish which heads left to finish seems fine in comparison and is certainly no harder than HS.
Dominion 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not very much of the tree stump is left now - it's mostly gone, compared to what was left earlier in the year. A nice route, with a certain degree of interest in the middle, polished section. I finished left up to the solid tree belay. Certainly felt harder that Ash Tree Slab which I seconded today, just before I led this...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not very much of the tree stump is left now - it's mostly gone, compared to what was left earlier in the year. A nice route, with a certain degree of interest in the middle, polished section. I finished left up to the solid tree belay. Certainly felt harder that Ash Tree Slab which I seconded today, just before I led this...
Howard J 4 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm sure this used to be graded VS 4c - OK a soft touch at that grade. The flake finish is definitely at least 4b. It is well protected though.
βeta?
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βeta: I'm sure this used to be graded VS 4c - OK a soft touch at that grade. The flake finish is definitely at least 4b. It is well protected though.
Offwidth 18 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think its fine at bottom end VS 4c and the new grade of HS 4a ia a joke compared to Ash Tree Wallalso at HS 4a which feels two grades easier. There is no way the polished moves at 4m are 4a; there are more hard moves a few meters above as well.
βeta?
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βeta: I think its fine at bottom end VS 4c and the new grade of HS 4a ia a joke compared to Ash Tree Wallalso at HS 4a which feels two grades easier. There is no way the polished moves at 4m are 4a; there are more hard moves a few meters above as well.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 113
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 106
Votes cast 100
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lynx

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wildcat)

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