UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
The central crack of the slab gives an interesting pitch, with plenty of protection. An alternative finish can be made up the corner of Ash Tree Slab at the same grade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
VS 4c in the 2015 BMC guide

FA. G.R.Fiddles, A.T.Braddock 1959.

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User Date Notes
greedo 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Did the RH finish up the gravity defying flake. It's hard not to use the flake; just breath out and make yourself as light as possible ????. The old double trunked ash tree is now chopped low but a new rope fixed belay exists. Guess you could abseil from here but there is some loose rock at the top. Better to walk off or drop down left facing in to top of ash tree slab for shiny new bolted lower off.
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βeta: Did the RH finish up the gravity defying flake. It's hard not to use the flake; just breath out and make yourself as light as possible ????. The old double trunked ash tree is now chopped low but a new rope fixed belay exists. Guess you could abseil from here but there is some loose rock at the top. Better to walk off or drop down left facing in to top of ash tree slab for shiny new bolted lower off.
babymoac 28 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Mountaineering skills for the upper flake - climb in a way that reduces your gravity !
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βeta: Mountaineering skills for the upper flake - climb in a way that reduces your gravity !
Skyfall 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I would agree this is HS though I went up the variant finish which is borderline VS if only as the big "flake" (a pile of blocks just about attached to the wall) appears not to be long for this world. The finish through the polihed bulge is also interesting. There is a BMC sign below this buttress which mentions loose rock. We were told by others that there didn't seem to be any loose rock but on climbing the flake I would have to disagree. Rather dangerous imo so beware. The normal finish which heads left to finish seems fine in comparison and is certainly no harder than HS.
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βeta: I would agree this is HS though I went up the variant finish which is borderline VS if only as the big "flake" (a pile of blocks just about attached to the wall) appears not to be long for this world. The finish through the polihed bulge is also interesting. There is a BMC sign below this buttress which mentions loose rock. We were told by others that there didn't seem to be any loose rock but on climbing the flake I would have to disagree. Rather dangerous imo so beware. The normal finish which heads left to finish seems fine in comparison and is certainly no harder than HS.
Dominion 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not very much of the tree stump is left now - it's mostly gone, compared to what was left earlier in the year. A nice route, with a certain degree of interest in the middle, polished section. I finished left up to the solid tree belay. Certainly felt harder that Ash Tree Slab which I seconded today, just before I led this...
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βeta: Not very much of the tree stump is left now - it's mostly gone, compared to what was left earlier in the year. A nice route, with a certain degree of interest in the middle, polished section. I finished left up to the solid tree belay. Certainly felt harder that Ash Tree Slab which I seconded today, just before I led this...
Howard J 4 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm sure this used to be graded VS 4c - OK a soft touch at that grade. The flake finish is definitely at least 4b. It is well protected though.
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βeta: I'm sure this used to be graded VS 4c - OK a soft touch at that grade. The flake finish is definitely at least 4b. It is well protected though.
Offwidth 18 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think its fine at bottom end VS 4c and the new grade of HS 4a ia a joke compared to Ash Tree Wallalso at HS 4a which feels two grades easier. There is no way the polished moves at 4m are 4a; there are more hard moves a few meters above as well.
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βeta: I think its fine at bottom end VS 4c and the new grade of HS 4a ia a joke compared to Ash Tree Wallalso at HS 4a which feels two grades easier. There is no way the polished moves at 4m are 4a; there are more hard moves a few meters above as well.

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Route of Interest

Paradise Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Plantation)
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