UKC Logbook - 'Nettlerash'

25m.

Rockfax Description
The central crack of the slab gives an interesting pitch, with plenty of protection. An alternative finish can be made up the corner of Ash Tree Slab at the same grade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
VS 4c in the 2015 BMC guide

FA. G.R.Fiddles, A.T.Braddock 1959.

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User	Date		Notes
PaulJepson	21 Apr	Show βeta βeta: There is some loose stuff from below the big detached flake to the top. Can mostly be avoided if you stick to the solid cracks. There is one very useful looking jug, which you also have to remember not to stand on, when you're just moving right to the base of the flake. The double stump at the top is very rotten and the tat further back is around a dead Ash. We went left (facing out) to the healthy tree to ab. We put some new tat on the tree as the old stuff was really crunchy. However our own tat was only 6mm or 7mm so we left the old stuff too, so if the next party up could take a knife and some ~10mm (would only need about 1.5m) that would be great!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is some loose stuff from below the big detached flake to the top. Can mostly be avoided if you stick to the solid cracks. There is one very useful looking jug, which you also have to remember not to stand on, when you're just moving right to the base of the flake. The double stump at the top is very rotten and the tat further back is around a dead Ash. We went left (facing out) to the healthy tree to ab. We put some new tat on the tree as the old stuff was really crunchy. However our own tat was only 6mm or 7mm so we left the old stuff too, so if the next party up could take a knife and some ~10mm (would only need about 1.5m) that would be great!
Joseph Price	29 Sep, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Join "Broken Toe" for tat & maillon around a tree, or left for some very nice chains.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Join "Broken Toe" for tat & maillon around a tree, or left for some very nice chains.
Howard J	27 Feb, 2023	Show βeta βeta: At the former grade this always felt like a soft-touch VS (my favourite sort). Most of it is HS 4b no question, but the start is tricky, albeit low and protected., and I think HS 4b slightly undersells it. Maybe HS 4c?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: At the former grade this always felt like a soft-touch VS (my favourite sort). Most of it is HS 4b no question, but the start is tricky, albeit low and protected., and I think HS 4b slightly undersells it. Maybe HS 4c?
smudge	10 Jul, 2022	Show βeta βeta: The massive flake is not attached to the buttress, avoid or handle with extreme care. I know it’s been like it a long time but it’s an accident waiting to happen.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The massive flake is not attached to the buttress, avoid or handle with extreme care. I know it’s been like it a long time but it’s an accident waiting to happen.
astrange	8 Jul, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Interesting route with good protection - HS sums it up :-)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Interesting route with good protection - HS sums it up :-)
greedo	13 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Did the RH finish up the gravity defying flake. It's hard not to use the flake; just breath out and make yourself as light as possible ????. The old double trunked ash tree is now chopped low but a new rope fixed belay exists. Guess you could abseil from here but there is some loose rock at the top. Better to walk off or drop down left facing in to top of ash tree slab for shiny new bolted lower off.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Did the RH finish up the gravity defying flake. It's hard not to use the flake; just breath out and make yourself as light as possible ????. The old double trunked ash tree is now chopped low but a new rope fixed belay exists. Guess you could abseil from here but there is some loose rock at the top. Better to walk off or drop down left facing in to top of ash tree slab for shiny new bolted lower off.
babymoac	28 Oct, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Mountaineering skills for the upper flake - climb in a way that reduces your gravity !	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Mountaineering skills for the upper flake - climb in a way that reduces your gravity !
Skyfall	4 Jun, 2007	Show βeta βeta: I would agree this is HS though I went up the variant finish which is borderline VS if only as the big "flake" (a pile of blocks just about attached to the wall) appears not to be long for this world. The finish through the polihed bulge is also interesting. There is a BMC sign below this buttress which mentions loose rock. We were told by others that there didn't seem to be any loose rock but on climbing the flake I would have to disagree. Rather dangerous imo so beware. The normal finish which heads left to finish seems fine in comparison and is certainly no harder than HS.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I would agree this is HS though I went up the variant finish which is borderline VS if only as the big "flake" (a pile of blocks just about attached to the wall) appears not to be long for this world. The finish through the polihed bulge is also interesting. There is a BMC sign below this buttress which mentions loose rock. We were told by others that there didn't seem to be any loose rock but on climbing the flake I would have to disagree. Rather dangerous imo so beware. The normal finish which heads left to finish seems fine in comparison and is certainly no harder than HS.
Dominion	10 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Not very much of the tree stump is left now - it's mostly gone, compared to what was left earlier in the year. A nice route, with a certain degree of interest in the middle, polished section. I finished left up to the solid tree belay. Certainly felt harder that Ash Tree Slab which I seconded today, just before I led this...	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Not very much of the tree stump is left now - it's mostly gone, compared to what was left earlier in the year. A nice route, with a certain degree of interest in the middle, polished section. I finished left up to the solid tree belay. Certainly felt harder that Ash Tree Slab which I seconded today, just before I led this...
Howard J	4 May, 2005	Show βeta βeta: I'm sure this used to be graded VS 4c - OK a soft touch at that grade. The flake finish is definitely at least 4b. It is well protected though.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I'm sure this used to be graded VS 4c - OK a soft touch at that grade. The flake finish is definitely at least 4b. It is well protected though.
Offwidth	18 Aug, 2004	Show βeta βeta: I think its fine at bottom end VS 4c and the new grade of HS 4a ia a joke compared to Ash Tree Wallalso at HS 4a which feels two grades easier. There is no way the polished moves at 4m are 4a; there are more hard moves a few meters above as well.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I think its fine at bottom end VS 4c and the new grade of HS 4a ia a joke compared to Ash Tree Wallalso at HS 4a which feels two grades easier. There is no way the polished moves at 4m are 4a; there are more hard moves a few meters above as well.