UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
The wide hanging slot in the right side of the tower is a sod to enter and leads awkwardly to a breather on the ledge. The upper arete is easier but bolder and features a creaky flake. Finish on the right-hand side. Cruely undergraded at HVS in the past. © Rockfax

FFA. Dave Hollows 1969 Ian Lonsdale (2nd pitch as described) 1977.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jon Read 24 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The flake high on the arête can take a sling around it, held in place by a cam (2 cams) -- arguably less prone to ripping than the large nut at its base. I had all three bits!
 
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βeta: The flake high on the arête can take a sling around it, held in place by a cam (2 cams) -- arguably less prone to ripping than the large nut at its base. I had all three bits!
Tommy_shaw 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found this route very tough, I personally think it’s harder than golden tower. The begging off width was greasy dirty and muddy at the back. This probably didn’t help the climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: Found this route very tough, I personally think it’s harder than golden tower. The begging off width was greasy dirty and muddy at the back. This probably didn’t help the climbing.
JR 14 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: IRT Andy S: Way harder than Peapod!
βeta?
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βeta: IRT Andy S: Way harder than Peapod!
JR 14 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This route is desperate for HVS. Felt E2ish to me. The flake where you place the last piece of gear on the arete is loose and will likely rip the gear and come with you if you fluff the final bold and really quite tough for the position and grade and really reachy moves on the arete. If it did, you'd be lucky to climb or even walk again. Take care, its not stanage out there...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is desperate for HVS. Felt E2ish to me. The flake where you place the last piece of gear on the arete is loose and will likely rip the gear and come with you if you fluff the final bold and really quite tough for the position and grade and really reachy moves on the arete. If it did, you'd be lucky to climb or even walk again. Take care, its not stanage out there...
Andy Farnell 11 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: This is harder than the arete to the right (Midas Touch E6 6c)!!!
βeta?
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βeta: This is harder than the arete to the right (Midas Touch E6 6c)!!!

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High E3
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High E2
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High E1
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Votes cast 8
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 8
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
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Route of Interest

Mandarin

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Hoghton Quarry)
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