Restricted Access
Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
Nice wall climbing that would be even better if it stayed clean. Climb the arete to the flake on the left then a ledge. Move right then trend back left to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Graham Whittaker 1968.
Ticklists
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| AaronMoran | 27 Apr |
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βeta: Committing! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Committing! |
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| Madmax245 | 23 Apr |
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βeta: It’s a jug ladder if you’re tall | βeta? | |
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βeta: It’s a jug ladder if you’re tall |
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| Shaun climbs 92 | 28 Nov, 2023 |
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βeta: Great route bit reachy in places wen ure only 5.7 good test of nerves was my first vs only lead 3 routes prior to this | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route bit reachy in places wen ure only 5.7 good test of nerves was my first vs only lead 3 routes prior to this |
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| donkarlo | 6 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: SUPERB! What a fantastic route, a real good test of nerve but gear just where you need it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: SUPERB! What a fantastic route, a real good test of nerve but gear just where you need it. |
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| Pekkie | 15 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: A very good VS with good protection where it matters. All the top needs is a good brushing off occasionally. Come on, lazy climbers! | βeta? | |
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βeta: A very good VS with good protection where it matters. All the top needs is a good brushing off occasionally. Come on, lazy climbers! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Anglezarke Quarry
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The Third World
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Warton Main Quarry)