UKC

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Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 24 June to 20 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.

Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
High in the grade and a classic tussle. The deep groove and wide crack give a satisfying struggle with large gear helpful. © Rockfax

FA. John Whittle 1966.

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List

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User Date Notes
Mark Collins 3 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Wet
βeta?
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βeta: Wet
paulinepavlova 6 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There was a bird's nest in the crack, with several eggs and a bird flew out and away (not tawny owl) as I was climbing. Only read the feedback on 24/05/22 after I'd already climbed the route. So sorry! Have since contacted BMC and their advice is to avoid the route and others nearby it for now - for the month of June.
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βeta: There was a bird's nest in the crack, with several eggs and a bird flew out and away (not tawny owl) as I was climbing. Only read the feedback on 24/05/22 after I'd already climbed the route. So sorry! Have since contacted BMC and their advice is to avoid the route and others nearby it for now - for the month of June.
GingerNinja 24 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bird nesting with eggs just above initial hard move, probably better to avoid until they've gone? 21/05/2022
βeta?
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βeta: Bird nesting with eggs just above initial hard move, probably better to avoid until they've gone? 21/05/2022
Matt_b 30 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Get stuck in and it's not that bad. VS 5a?
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βeta: Get stuck in and it's not that bad. VS 5a?
Alan Bates 11 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: What a struggle I had
βeta?
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βeta: What a struggle I had
Tony Buckley Oct, 1985 Show βeta
βeta: First VS lead. Well chuffed!
βeta?
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βeta: First VS lead. Well chuffed!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 94
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 94
Votes cast 84
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slab Dab

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Deeply Vale)

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