Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
High in the grade and a classic tussle. The deep groove and wide crack give a satisfying struggle with large gear helpful. © Rockfax
FA. John Whittle 1966.
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Mark Collins | 3 Dec, 2022 |
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βeta: Wet | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wet |
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paulinepavlova | 6 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: There was a bird's nest in the crack, with several eggs and a bird flew out and away (not tawny owl) as I was climbing. Only read the feedback on 24/05/22 after I'd already climbed the route. So sorry! Have since contacted BMC and their advice is to avoid the route and others nearby it for now - for the month of June. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There was a bird's nest in the crack, with several eggs and a bird flew out and away (not tawny owl) as I was climbing. Only read the feedback on 24/05/22 after I'd already climbed the route. So sorry! Have since contacted BMC and their advice is to avoid the route and others nearby it for now - for the month of June. |
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GingerNinja | 24 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Bird nesting with eggs just above initial hard move, probably better to avoid until they've gone? 21/05/2022 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bird nesting with eggs just above initial hard move, probably better to avoid until they've gone? 21/05/2022 |
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Matt_b | 30 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Get stuck in and it's not that bad. VS 5a? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Get stuck in and it's not that bad. VS 5a? |
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Alan Bates | 11 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: What a struggle I had | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a struggle I had |
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Tony Buckley | Oct, 1985 |
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βeta: First VS lead. Well chuffed! | βeta? | |
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βeta: First VS lead. Well chuffed! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Deeply Vale)