Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
Often regarded as THE Lancashire classic. Start up the crack in the left side of the buttress (awkward 5a) then tackle the fine finger-crack splitting the centre of the upper tower. It is best done in a single pitch. © Rockfax
FA. Les Ainsworth 1968.
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Very good routes in the UK , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Lancs Grit , McCoys Homestyle trad , 100 Best Routes on Grit , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , East and West Top 25
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Mark Collins | 3 Dec, 2022 |
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βeta: Dry but need to figure a new way with thicker gloves on. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Dry but need to figure a new way with thicker gloves on. |
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George Frisby | 24 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Block that pie_eater_pete refers to below came off today. Maybe a little harder now to transition out of the hand crack but a lot safer. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Block that pie_eater_pete refers to below came off today. Maybe a little harder now to transition out of the hand crack but a lot safer. |
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pie_eater_pete | 3 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: WARNING a very loose block at start, just after hand crack. I suspect this will break off soon. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: WARNING a very loose block at start, just after hand crack. I suspect this will break off soon. |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Hoghton Quarry)