UKC

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Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 24 June to 20 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.

Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge. 

20m.

Rockfax Description
Often regarded as THE Lancashire classic. Start up the crack in the left side of the buttress (awkward 5a) then tackle the fine finger-crack splitting the centre of the upper tower. It is best done in a single pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Les Ainsworth 1968.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Very good routes in the UK , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Lancs Grit , McCoys Homestyle trad , 100 Best Routes on Grit , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , East and West Top 25

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User Date Notes
Mark Collins 3 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Dry but need to figure a new way with thicker gloves on.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dry but need to figure a new way with thicker gloves on.
George Frisby 24 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Block that pie_eater_pete refers to below came off today. Maybe a little harder now to transition out of the hand crack but a lot safer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Block that pie_eater_pete refers to below came off today. Maybe a little harder now to transition out of the hand crack but a lot safer.
pie_eater_pete 3 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: WARNING a very loose block at start, just after hand crack. I suspect this will break off soon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: WARNING a very loose block at start, just after hand crack. I suspect this will break off soon.

Logged Ascents

498 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Anglezarke Quarry

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 84
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rhododendron Buttress

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Hoghton Quarry)

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