Restricted Access
Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
The wall past an assortment of fixed gear. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Bottom peg for crux replaced 2014, all others have now gone but can be protected ok with small wires and cams higher up. Direct finish 'Stained Steel' goes at a about E7 7a, with some big wild moves on micro crimps and slopers. Fa Paul Robins July 2014
FA. Paul Pritchard 1986. Bolt added in 2002..
Ticklists
Trad climbs for sport climbers
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Farnell | 19 Mar, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Apparently all the pegs have now gone. The crux is still protected by a good Friend, the top by a bolt, so the grade should stay the same. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Apparently all the pegs have now gone. The crux is still protected by a good Friend, the top by a bolt, so the grade should stay the same. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Anglezarke Quarry
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A Prolonged Period Of Fuzziness
Grade: E6 6c ***
(Thorn Crag)