Rockfax Description
One of the West Country's great sport routes. Start beneath a pocketed weakness. Move up on good pockets and then swing right to good jams in the horizontal break at 6m. Make a hard move to a good pocket then lurch up the wall, first leftwards and then back right to a final move to easier ground. © Rockfax
FA. Nick White, Pete Bull, Andy Turner Mar/1988.
The road to 8a , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Classic UK F7s , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Classic Anstey's , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rock cats getting strong , Andy's Projects , University of Exeter must tick's , Moving to Devon , South Side Sport , 30 For My 30s , Soft Touches , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Recommended 7's 2021 , Bristol Bangers , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Autumn Road Trip , Pyramid to 8a+ , Routes , Cream first! , Quality 7b-7b+ in South Devon , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do!
User | Date | Notes | ||
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plant_based_tommo | 24 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Might have been solid 7b before the polish. Easily 7b+ now in my opinion. Well worth doing though! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Might have been solid 7b before the polish. Easily 7b+ now in my opinion. Well worth doing though! |
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richgac | 4 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: An awesome route. Good holds when you need them, but still best done rapidly. | βeta? | |
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βeta: An awesome route. Good holds when you need them, but still best done rapidly. |
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Davros the Psyched | 30 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Bring your biggest guns and a LOT of ammo - this puppy's a pumper. Solid for 7b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bring your biggest guns and a LOT of ammo - this puppy's a pumper. Solid for 7b. |
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david potts | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: pure class | βeta? | |
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βeta: pure class |
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midgets of the world unite | 11 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: I'd like to add, I don't think a photo-topo works very well for this wall, where much of it is obscured, or for the ferocity wall either, where the routes are identified by subtle features. The old line-topos in the old guide were much better. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'd like to add, I don't think a photo-topo works very well for this wall, where much of it is obscured, or for the ferocity wall either, where the routes are identified by subtle features. The old line-topos in the old guide were much better. |
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midgets of the world unite | 1 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: mega, mega, mega. Sprint up the leaning wall with nicely spaced bolts. A clipstick takes the sting out of the start in these soft modern times... | βeta? | |
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βeta: mega, mega, mega. Sprint up the leaning wall with nicely spaced bolts. A clipstick takes the sting out of the start in these soft modern times... |
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Grade: 7b S1 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)