Restricted Access
The bouldering at Anston Stones Wood all takes place on land owned by Anston Parish Council. To preserve the good relationship that climbers have with the Parish Council, The British Mountaineering Council have agreed the following guidelines which we ask all climbers to adhere to:
- Stick to existing footpaths and firm ground, avoid trampling on vegetation
- Pick up any litter you come across
- Stay off the railway line
- Climb only on areas that have already been developed (i.e. Woody’s Rock, the Wave area, Rocky Valley, Hidden Wall, Apprentice Wall, Dukes Wall, Through Post, and Frodo buttress.)
In addition to the above, avoid topping out where possible.
Rockfax Description
The original problem on this roof and probably the best. Blast straight out of the roof from a sit-start on undercuts at the back, mantling the ledge to finish. Lots of different sequences, none are easy. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Sit start matched on a large undercut at the back of roof. Climb direct through the small roof via pockets and slots. Mantle to finish.
Ticklists
Magstone's Best , Peak 200 , Scrittle and CHoss , Bus Punters , Summer Bouldering in the UK - 7's , 7B+-8A For The Short , My projects , Bouldering
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| rooiBOSH | 4 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: The RH crimp in the roof which becomes a heel has improved since my last session on 11/07/25. It is now easier to get the heel in and to make it stay. There was previously a little nodule of extra rock in the middle of the RH hold in question, which made the heel slip out if placed badly. The moves off the heel are now easier, but not by much. If this was a soft 7C (as people seem to think) then it is likely now 7B+. But I don’t have the experience to say with any certainty. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The RH crimp in the roof which becomes a heel has improved since my last session on 11/07/25. It is now easier to get the heel in and to make it stay. There was previously a little nodule of extra rock in the middle of the RH hold in question, which made the heel slip out if placed badly. The moves off the heel are now easier, but not by much. If this was a soft 7C (as people seem to think) then it is likely now 7B+. But I don’t have the experience to say with any certainty. |
||||
| Ed_SheffieldClimbingClinic | 12 Jan, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Used short person beta and dyno'd to the pocket on the lip. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Used short person beta and dyno'd to the pocket on the lip. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Filthy Duke
Grade: f7C ***
(Anston Stones Wood)