UKC

Restricted Access

The bouldering at Anston Stones Wood all takes place on land owned by Anston Parish Council. To preserve the good relationship that climbers have with the Parish Council, The British Mountaineering Council have agreed the following guidelines which we ask all climbers to adhere to:

  • Stick to existing footpaths and firm ground, avoid trampling on vegetation
  • Pick up any litter you come across
  • Stay off the railway line
  • Climb only on areas that have already been developed (i.e. Woody’s Rock, the Wave area, Rocky Valley, Hidden Wall, Apprentice Wall, Dukes Wall, Through Post, and Frodo buttress.)

In addition to the above, avoid topping out where possible.

Rockfax Description
From a similar start as Reservation, crouching on the plinth, span out to a bad crimp then up past a pocket. Finish above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From a similar start to the last problem make a reachy move up to a poor sloping crimp, then lock up and out to the good pocket or lay-away. Finish directly.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Matt Cooke 14 May Show βeta
βeta: I broke one of the holds on this under the roof earlier this year. I don't know how much difference this makes though. You can use a pinch nearer the lip instead which sets you up for a chuck to the pocket in the same way as I was trying with the undercut. It also looks possible to keep your feet on the plinth, get the crimp on the lip with your left and then jump for the pocket. I still have the hold which was a small blobby hold you could undercut with your right hand. I can stick it back on if anyone knows if it was crucial and the problem is unclimbable as a result.
Show beta
βeta: I broke one of the holds on this under the roof earlier this year. I don't know how much difference this makes though. You can use a pinch nearer the lip instead which sets you up for a chuck to the pocket in the same way as I was trying with the undercut. It also looks possible to keep your feet on the plinth, get the crimp on the lip with your left and then jump for the pocket. I still have the hold which was a small blobby hold you could undercut with your right hand. I can stick it back on if anyone knows if it was crucial and the problem is unclimbable as a result.

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High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
Route of Interest
The Rib

Grade: f7B+ ***
(Burbage South Edge)

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