UKC

9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This combination of routes gets you from the very base pretty much to the very top, up a reasonable set of trad pitches with a couple of sport connections.
1) VS 4c. Runup. Start from way down in the base. Belay at the top or continue to the belay below the next pitch.
2) E1 5a. Looning The Tube. The best pitch.
3) 5a. Steps of Glory. A sport connection.
4) 6a. Sodor. A sport connection - alternatives exist.
5) E1 5b. M.I.L. Arete. A nice arete.
6) HVS 5a. Razorback. The crack.
7) HVS 5a. Digital Delection. A great climb. Drop down and go through the tunnel for the next one.
8) VS 4c. The Shining. Not the best pitch. The two easy sport routes to the right are alternatives.
9) VS 4b. Goblin Party. A fine finish virtually at the top of the vast bowl. © Rockfax

Ticklists

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User Date Notes
Butel 28 May Show βeta
βeta: Hardest pitch is LTT. The MIL arete is not E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hardest pitch is LTT. The MIL arete is not E1.
Suzie Clarke 3 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Really great climb!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really great climb!
AlexF99 30 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I Led the 5a sport route in the middle. Mike did the rest. Completed in 2 Hours 48 Minutes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I Led the 5a sport route in the middle. Mike did the rest. Completed in 2 Hours 48 Minutes
JaySheppard 6 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A little unnerved by the fact there were only 5 logs of this before we did it but it was a fun day and pretty epic to slowly ascend the entire west face of the Australia col. We swung leads all the way up, took us over 6 hours total but probably could have been quicker if it wasn\'t our 4th day on. A good variety of pitches throughout that are a mix of classics, esoterica, bolts and dubious gear that accurately reflect the slate trad experience. The final 2 pitches are a pile of choss that definitely provide an exciting finish although a lot easier than everything that came before it. Just be careful and for the love of god don\'t fall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A little unnerved by the fact there were only 5 logs of this before we did it but it was a fun day and pretty epic to slowly ascend the entire west face of the Australia col. We swung leads all the way up, took us over 6 hours total but probably could have been quicker if it wasn't our 4th day on. A good variety of pitches throughout that are a mix of classics, esoterica, bolts and dubious gear that accurately reflect the slate trad experience. The final 2 pitches are a pile of choss that definitely provide an exciting finish although a lot easier than everything that came before it. Just be careful and for the love of god don't fall.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 5
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cenotaph Corner

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

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