Rockfax Description
A route that was originally graded VS, which is pretty outrageous given the terrain. Start up the groove of Act Naturally and, after 7m, traverse out on jugs to the arete. Climb past two pegs and the bolt studs. Finish straight up, 1m right of a groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
all three bolts now removed, original first peg still there, and a little hollow, and another peg has been wacked into the bolt hole after bolt was chopped!.climb act naturally for about 20 ft untill the first nut placement is found in the crack,then traverse left and up the rib to the peg, climb straight up to the second peg, (shared climbing and protection with `the skyline club`). make a delicate moves left to the rib, then start the long and nervy runout upwards following the easiest, least loose holds to the top groove, small nut placement, then straight up the corner to a nice airy move out right to the big hold! some loose rock, care needed!
was graded E1 5a with three bolts, having done this today, and only having two pegs and a dodgy nut at the top, i believe it to be nearer E2 5A!
j.brown.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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sasmojo | 9 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Found the route to be sound and as decribed. Worth trying Antiquity Direct, which we put up on the same day (FA) and logged on the same day: http://slate.wikifoundry.com/page/SKYLINE+BUTTRESS+LEVEL see Antiquity Direct at the same grade but thin and a spaced out in the mid section. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Found the route to be sound and as decribed. Worth trying Antiquity Direct, which we put up on the same day (FA) and logged on the same day: http://slate.wikifoundry.com/page/SKYLINE+BUTTRESS+LEVEL see Antiquity Direct at the same grade but thin and a spaced out in the mid section. |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))