UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Above some blocks about 25m left of the top of Cape York Approach lies a slab that is very mossy on its right and cleaner on its left. Start at the left edge of the slab base. Pad up a ramp, continue left just above the rim of the leaning lower wall, then go up to a ledge in a shallow depression. From the right side of the ledge, follow a shallow groove more easily to the top (block belays behind). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The second pitch of the original route (the first is now bolted and described separately as Cape York Approach). Technically straightforward but unprotected. There are sound holds for all moves but some fragile ones that must be avoided so careful climbing is needed.

20 m 4b/c About 10 m up and R from A Brucie Bonus above some blocks lies a slab that is very mossy on its R and cleaner on its L. Start at the L edge of the slab base where it is clean. Pad L up a ramp. Move L just above the lip of the leaning lower wall then go up to a ledge in a shallow depression. From the R side of the ledge follow a shallow groove more easily to the top (block belays behind). Walk to the L back to the Darwin level or use the ab station about 10 m R to return to the Cape York Level.

Harold Walmsley 17/Jun/2014.

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Route of Interest
Hawk's Nest ArĂȘte

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Glyder Fach)

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