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5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Best avoided, but one assumes the first ascensionist had a death wish this day, or no friends to play with.
1) 60m. Follow the groove to the vertical shale band and cross this to solid rock. Then follow the most solid rock to the next level.
2) 5b, 12m. To the left of a prominent smooth brown overhanging wall is an arete/groove. Climb this on wobbly holds to an arete.
3) 4c. 12m. The V-groove on the right of the arete of the small wall. A chain is draped over the buttress.
4) 4c, 30m. The blocky arete left of the big bay behind the groove. Climb this until it is possible to traverse rightwards to easy ground at the back of the bay.
5) 4c, 30m. The prominent arete split by a chimney. Climb the right arete until it is possible to traverse into the chimney. Scramble up to the next level (hanging pipe) and walk off. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Dicken 14.10.2002 14/Oct/2002.


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Route of Interest


Grade: XS 5b ***
(Cilan Head)