UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route with spaced bolts. Moving past the first bolt to gain the wobbly flake is the crux - you might want a sling to loop over a small spike to reach the second. A steady approach above this brings you to a dramatic top-out on the rails. Belay on the Sidings level. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , AMC Uni Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Slate Goals , Best Before 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
SCClimb 19 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a bit off below the 'crux' flake, some loose bits still remain. There is also an enticing loose crimp at 2/3 height that should not be pulled on.
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a bit off below the 'crux' flake, some loose bits still remain. There is also an enticing loose crimp at 2/3 height that should not be pulled on.
Tom Peeper 12 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: some choss on exit, warn belayer
Show beta
βeta: some choss on exit, warn belayer

Logged Ascents

201 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Australia

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 135 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 40
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wilderness Grit

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Y Grisiau)

Loading Notifications...