UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
The slab with two bolts. A wire can be placed to protect the move onto the central ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Face / arete to the right of Gadaffi Duck. Two bolts to lower-off.

Feedback

User Date Notes
SuperLee1985 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Beware the flake up and left of the last bolt (after crux move) looks like it will take a nut bit is quite wobbly and will almost certainly blow if fallen on.
βeta?
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βeta: Beware the flake up and left of the last bolt (after crux move) looks like it will take a nut bit is quite wobbly and will almost certainly blow if fallen on.
Butty 23 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not bad, * is correct. Some high feet on the upper section but all there. Protected the move onto the ledge with a number 4 wire, a good warm up for the day ahead.....
βeta?
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βeta: Not bad, * is correct. Some high feet on the upper section but all there. Protected the move onto the ledge with a number 4 wire, a good warm up for the day ahead.....
Stella Perryman 27 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Visably loose flake about half way up close to the arete. Easy to avoid.
βeta?
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βeta: Visably loose flake about half way up close to the arete. Easy to avoid.
Ian Ford 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a large flake on the left between the first bolt and nut placement. Might make it a little trickier, but shouldn't affect the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: Pulled off a large flake on the left between the first bolt and nut placement. Might make it a little trickier, but shouldn't affect the grade.
liamhughes1981 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The loose step (marked with crosses) has now fallen off. Makes the step onto the ledge harder
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The loose step (marked with crosses) has now fallen off. Makes the step onto the ledge harder

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 98
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 94
Votes cast 78
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sabre Cut

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

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