July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
The slab with two bolts. A wire can be placed to protect the move onto the central ledge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Face / arete to the right of Gadaffi Duck. Two bolts to lower-off.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
SuperLee1985 | 24 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Beware the flake up and left of the last bolt (after crux move) looks like it will take a nut bit is quite wobbly and will almost certainly blow if fallen on. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Beware the flake up and left of the last bolt (after crux move) looks like it will take a nut bit is quite wobbly and will almost certainly blow if fallen on. |
||||
Butty | 23 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not bad, * is correct. Some high feet on the upper section but all there. Protected the move onto the ledge with a number 4 wire, a good warm up for the day ahead..... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not bad, * is correct. Some high feet on the upper section but all there. Protected the move onto the ledge with a number 4 wire, a good warm up for the day ahead..... |
||||
Stella Perryman | 27 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Visably loose flake about half way up close to the arete. Easy to avoid. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Visably loose flake about half way up close to the arete. Easy to avoid. |
||||
Ian Ford | 31 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a large flake on the left between the first bolt and nut placement. Might make it a little trickier, but shouldn't affect the grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off a large flake on the left between the first bolt and nut placement. Might make it a little trickier, but shouldn't affect the grade. |
||||
liamhughes1981 | 31 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The loose step (marked with crosses) has now fallen off. Makes the step onto the ledge harder | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The loose step (marked with crosses) has now fallen off. Makes the step onto the ledge harder |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Glyder Fach)