UKC

54m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Marvellous climbing and wildly exposed positions combine to make this route one of Avon's greatest excursions. The first pitch is serious for the second whilst the hard moves on pitch two are perfectly protected. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 5a, 30m. From the left end of the higher ledge climb a groove to a good peg and wires. Traverse left to a poor peg and then downclimb left past a distinct finger edge to small ledges. Traverse left again until beneath a corner with a high prominent peg in its left wall. Move left again past a well fingered crack and a hidden peg via steep moves that allow a big quarry spike to be reached a little higher. Move left on easier rock to a stance in a yellow niche and good quarry spike belay 3m above.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up to the right-hand side of the big overhang, peg, and step right and up to a good ledge. Move up the left wall above the overhang with difficulty, 2 pegs, to easier ground. Move up to the leaning headwall and 2 pegs before traversing delicately right into a superbly-positioned groove, peg. Finish up the groove. © Rockfax

B Annette, G Clark (with 5 pts aid) 1961.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bristol first E2s, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The post lockdown local list, So you think your an Avon Climber?

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 20 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Lead only P1. Oops. A peg came out when bringing my second up last night. P1 now has one less peg to use. Feel like framing this a historic swag from the Golden Ages. I have no idea where from though! Brilliant second pitch with Steve. Even in the dark (no head torches). P1 was a fiddly affair, but second pitch is the beauty! Will go back to repeat this on lead. Very exposed feeling on the traverse above the overhand. Again good lead by Steve.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead only P1. Oops. A peg came out when bringing my second up last night. P1 now has one less peg to use. Feel like framing this a historic swag from the Golden Ages. I have no idea where from though! Brilliant second pitch with Steve. Even in the dark (no head torches). P1 was a fiddly affair, but second pitch is the beauty! Will go back to repeat this on lead. Very exposed feeling on the traverse above the overhand. Again good lead by Steve.
Steve Claw 22 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Last peg below the exit corner is now gone, however there is a good small wire 2ft below where its was.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Last peg below the exit corner is now gone, however there is a good small wire 2ft below where its was.
Tom Brierley 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Zeroth pitch alternative 4c 30m. Direct route to widest part of the overhang. Start at the walkable mound, climb the slab taking the right fork of two clearings. Continue up slab exiting the veg and passing horizontal crack (more poor gear), head straight to overhang for better gear in a very shallow right facing corner. Make way leftward under the overhang and exit up the obvious flake/crack as it narrows. Iron spike and ring belay on the right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Zeroth pitch alternative 4c 30m. Direct route to widest part of the overhang. Start at the walkable mound, climb the slab taking the right fork of two clearings. Continue up slab exiting the veg and passing horizontal crack (more poor gear), head straight to overhang for better gear in a very shallow right facing corner. Make way leftward under the overhang and exit up the obvious flake/crack as it narrows. Iron spike and ring belay on the right.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 35
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Earl of Perth/Oblivion Hybrid

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))
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