Marvellous climbing and wildly exposed positions combine to make this route one of Avon's greatest excursions. The first pitch is serious for the second whilst the hard moves on pitch two are perfectly protected. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 5a, 30m. From the left end of the higher ledge climb a groove to a good peg and wires. Traverse left to a poor peg and then downclimb left past a distinct finger edge to small ledges. Traverse left again until beneath a corner with a high prominent peg in its left wall. Move left again past a well fingered crack and a hidden peg via steep moves that allow a big quarry spike to be reached a little higher. Move left on easier rock to a stance in a yellow niche and good quarry spike belay 3m above.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up to the right-hand side of the big overhang, peg, and step right and up to a good ledge. Move up the left wall above the overhang with difficulty, 2 pegs, to easier ground. Move up to the leaning headwall and 2 pegs before traversing delicately right into a superbly-positioned groove, peg. Finish up the groove. © Rockfax
B Annette, G Clark (with 5 pts aid) 1961.
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