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54m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Marvellous climbing and wildly exposed positions combine to make this route one of Avon's greatest excursions. The first pitch is serious for the second whilst the hard moves on pitch two are perfectly protected. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 5a, 30m. From the left end of the higher ledge climb a groove to a good peg and wires. Traverse left to a poor peg and then downclimb left past a distinct finger edge to small ledges. Traverse left again until beneath a corner with a high prominent peg in its left wall. Move left again past a well fingered crack and a hidden peg via steep moves that allow a big quarry spike to be reached a little higher. Move left on easier rock to a stance in a yellow niche and good quarry spike belay 3m above.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up to the right-hand side of the big overhang, peg, and step right and up to a good ledge. Move up the left wall above the overhang with difficulty, 2 pegs, to easier ground. Move up to the leaning headwall and 2 pegs before traversing delicately right into a superbly-positioned groove, peg. Finish up the groove. © Rockfax

B Annette, G Clark (with 5 pts aid) 1961.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bristol first E2s, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The post lockdown local list

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Brierley 28 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Added a more challenging zeroth pitch alternative to dawn walk (which i haven't done, so can't compare). Essentially a direct route to the widest part of the overhang under the first belay: 4c 30m, Start at the highest point of the walkable mound, from here climb the slab taking the right fork of two clearings in the undergrowth, wire left and sling a bush on the right as you exit the veg. Continue up the steepening slab until a long thin horizontal crack, get some opposing nuts in then head just left of the widest part of the overhang to get some good gear underneath in a very shallow right facing corner (vertical nut crack + a twist lock nut in an open pocket). Make your way leftward as the overhang narrows, various cam opportunities emerge, go up the obvious crack/flake just before the overhang disappears to join dawn walk, back to the right an iron spike, ring belay up and right again is the bottom of P1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Added a more challenging zeroth pitch alternative to dawn walk (which i haven't done, so can't compare). Essentially a direct route to the widest part of the overhang under the first belay: 4c 30m, Start at the highest point of the walkable mound, from here climb the slab taking the right fork of two clearings in the undergrowth, wire left and sling a bush on the right as you exit the veg. Continue up the steepening slab until a long thin horizontal crack, get some opposing nuts in then head just left of the widest part of the overhang to get some good gear underneath in a very shallow right facing corner (vertical nut crack + a twist lock nut in an open pocket). Make your way leftward as the overhang narrows, various cam opportunities emerge, go up the obvious crack/flake just before the overhang disappears to join dawn walk, back to the right an iron spike, ring belay up and right again is the bottom of P1.

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 35
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Earl of Perth/Oblivion Hybrid

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))